Set up help

mktracing

New member
Can someone please explain cross, stagger, camber, caster, nose weight, left side weight, and VCG???

I got dibs on first post!!!

I figured McCarty would've already explained it all!

McCarthy retired!(unfortunately) I would start with Todd's book start fast lot of good info there. Then get Mikes chassis manual and Todd's dynamics of speed. If you like videos get the phantom DVDs

Ive got all of tods books and mikes first manual... a lot of good info! I started out by myself with really no help.. these books gave me a good grasp on what was going on with my kart! Happy retirement to mike!

I would 2nd this...

McCarthy retired!(unfortunately) I would start with Todd's book start fast lot of good info there. Then get Mikes chassis manual and Todd's dynamics of speed. If you like videos get the phantom DVDs

Mike just recently updated his book

THIS IS FROM A SAVED THREAD ON "CROSS CONFUSION". Thanks to Mike and Todd who's great information on Bob's is sadly gone. I have the entire Cross Confusion thread if anyone wants it, send me a pm or email acblend@hotmail.com

Msquared

03-26-11,, 02:55 PM

Cross, I call it the great confuser. It is quite simple.

Cross has two primary functions. They are: dynamic weight distribution to the rightside tires and to control how the kart turns. Another function is that a higher cross setup will place more load on the right front which prevents the right rear from overloading on exit. A confusing thing associated with cross is which way loosens or tightens the kart? The answer is it depends on where you are at on cross relative to leftside weight. Anytime cross is moved closer to equaling leftside it tightens the kart. So if you run high cross, lowering cross will tighten the kart. If you run low cross then raising cross will tighten the kart.

Here are some examples: Cross 65% and leftside 58%. Lowering cross to 60% will tighten the kart because it is now closer to equaling the leftside weight. Raising cross will free up the kart because you are moving away from leftside weight. So, if you now had 50% cross and 55% leftside, increasing cross, moving it closer the equaling leftside will tighten the kart. Lowering cross will free the kart.

On a high grip track, low cross tends to give you a kart that does not get tight and handles well, but does not give you much speed off the turn. Why? Because you are controlling the left rear but not maximizing the right front, the handling is somewhat sluggish. You are mainly running off the right rear and keeping the left rear from causing the kart to push.

Medium cross (the dead zone) has inconsistent handling and is slow. Why? Not enough load is on the right front to relieve the load on the right rear. The right front does not load enough and the left rear reloads too soon resulting in a tight condition. This is due to what is referred to as a fight for dominance of the rear tires. Generally high cross is for tracks that have a lot of grip. Low cross is for tracks with less grip. For running on coke syrup indoor tracks you actually want to go negative on cross running 48% or lower. Trends have shown cross in the 52 to 58% range to work.

High cross gives you a quick reacting kart that plants the right front hard enough to relieve the right rear and control the left rear. The higher the grip that the race track has (the more G’s pulled) the more you have to pre-load the right front corner of the chassis (spring) with the high cross to get the kart to store and re-disperse the energy that it is receiving from the racetrack. Without the cross, the right rear generally wastes the stored energy (binds the kart) of the spring (chassis). That is what is meant by “freeing the right rear up.”
With a car there is a balance that has to be considered among the four corners of the chassis because each corner is independently suspended which is to say, it does not care about what connects one corner to the next. With a kart, each corner does have a suspension (the tires) but each corner, very much so, cares how it is connected to the next corner (the chassis itself). Because of this, you can’t think in terms of “balance” as it pertains to your setup percentages.

Here is an example of how cross works. The kart seemed to have a bit of a push (not bad). Track conditions were quite good with lots of grip. At the end of the night I set the kart on the scales to discover that the cross was almost identical the leftside percent (about 55%). This was not where I thought our set up was. I thought I had 53% left and 57% cross. I put 2 turns into the weight jacker (1 turn equals 1% of cross); I went back out in hot laps and tried it....it now pushed like a truck going in! I then took out the 2 turns and then took out a further 2 and tried it. It now turned in great but was a little loose coming off. At this point I figure another 1/2 to 1 turn in would be pretty close. If I continued to put cross in after the first 2 turns, that in theory would have eventually loosened up the kart?

What happened in the above is what is supposed to happen. Lower cross creates less load on the left rear. When the left rear is the predominate tire, after considering the weight transfer to the right side in the corner, you are going to push. The tire with the most load, has the most drive. That is simple physics. Knowing where your kart is at is great along with what changes do what. Don’t worry about the numbers; just know where you are at. That is what they are for.....to let you know where you are at. The feel at the track, tire temps and air pressure build-up can tell you if you are close to where you need to be. Many times, I will make changes without scales. I do not care what the numbers are. When it is all said and done, I will put the kart on the scales and see if my adjustments put me numerically where I figured it would be....in my mind. 9 times out of 10, I am within .2%. I scale to find what tires and adjustments do what. At the track, I make the adjustments the track asks for.....knowing in the back of my head where I am at. I might spend 120+ hours on the scales before the kart hits the track. After that, it might hit the scales just for curiosity’s sake....just to make sure I am not overlooking anything.

The track will dictate your cross. The determining factors are “grip”, “steering input”, and “geometry” of the track. Sometimes higher cross can work on lower grip tracks because of the corner geometry and steering input “making the kart mechanically transfer weight faster”. At the same time, sometimes a hard biting track, may allow low cross because of opposite conditions. The one key factor is to have a kart that is user friendly enough that you can “feel” which direction to go in.

Some general statements about cross would be:
1. High cross for high grip tracks.
2. Lower cross for low grip tracks.
3. The closer cross is to being equal to leftside, the tighter the kart is going to be.
4. DO NOT USE CROSS TO FORCE A KART TO HANDLE. Cross is for fine tuning ONLY.

Take the above at face value. To some high cross is 60% and to others it is 65%+. Use it as a guide to help you understand cross.

I generally adjust cross using the LF. If the kart has a rear weight jacker, I'll use it to fine tune with. Moving the LR up or down too much is going to effect the CG / roll center location which is a whole different ballgame.

As many have discovered, karts are very sensitive racing machines, so no matter what you do, it all matters.

The best thing for you to do is to put a good baseline setup in your kart and test what cross does to your kart.

I hope this helps.

Mike McCarty
Chassis Manual
Liquid Speed Tire Prep by Josh Philpott

www.kartcalc.com
www.220kartshop.com

Msquared

03-27-11,, 01:40 PM

Just one last thing.

I am not going to speak for Joey but am merely going to give the readers ”my” take on camber. A zero toe setting, for instance will lessen tire scrub and friction on the straights, which will lessen the rolling resistance of the kart. Rolling resistance lowers the acceleration and top speed the kart can produce, resulting in wasted engine power (which you've probably paid your engine builder lots of money for). I am using “zero” here merely as an example.

Zero (or very close to zero) camber settings will help to keep the full width of the front tire's tread in contact with the track surface when cornering, particularly at mid corner and corner exit on a flat track. As you corner the right side tires deform quite a bit and camber compensates for this. So instead of walking only on your heels you can use your whole foot for traction. Camber and the tires contact patch is really no different, to a certain degree.

As it's very common to see full sized race cars using obvious negative camber settings, some karters conclude that if this is OK for NASCAR, F1 and Indycar teams, it must be the right thing to do. As is the case with karting, it is mostly moneky-see, monkey-do. Unfortunately for those karters thinking this way, the tires used in most other forms of motorsports are radically different in their construction being radials, while kart tires use cross-ply (bias-belted) construction. Radial tires have much more flexible sidewalls than cross-plies, and because of this can work well at larger camber settings. The stiffer sidewall of a cross-ply tire means it has to be kept very close to vertical to work correctly, meaning that you must match the camber to the banking of the track. The tire chalk method works very well in finding the optimal camber to match the track. To avoid much debate I will not mention tire temps.

Inaccurate camber incorrectly loads the tire and lessens the size of the contact patch. As a result this smaller tire 'footprint' will have a tendency to overheat. Especially in hot conditions, this contributes strongly to premature tire wear and inconsistent handling (ie. the kart will handle differently as the race progresses, probably tending to increased understeer).

At most races you will see plenty of front tires with substantial wear on the inside edge, yet virtually unworn on the outside. You won't see many, if any tires looking like this at the front of the grid for the final.

It's really very simple, if the rubber's not in firm contact with the track, it's not providing grip, and the rubber which is contacting the track is being asked to do the work of the entire tread width, which it wasn't designed to do. Poor camber settings can have a similar (but not identical) effect as fitting undersized (narrow) tires on your kart. I'm sure nobody would deliberately put narrow tires on their kart!

In racing, it takes only a tiny deficit to lose large amounts of track distance. For instance, if you're only losing 1% to the kart in front due to poor alignment (or any other reason), then in ten laps on a 1000-foot track you will lose 100 feet!

Looking at this another way; on the same track, assuming a 'hot lap' time of 20 seconds, then a 1% deficit is equal to losing 2 tenths of a second per lap. An expensive engine blueprint might gain you 2 tenths. So why waste this costly and valuable advantage with poor front-end settings?

Toe and camber are among the most important settings on the kart, but they are also the two settings most likely to significantly be altered when the driver's weight is placed in the seat. This shouldn't be surprising, since driver weight can easily be over half the on-track kart weight.

If a kart is aligned to zero toe and camber without the driver seated, it is certain to have some unpredictable amount of negative camber with the driver in the kart. Most karts (but not all) will gain some unpredictable amount of toe-in, up to 1/8” is quite possible. Toe-in can easily contribute to poor turn-in as it makes the kart more resistant to change of direction and lessens turn-in weight transfer.

As the kart will always be raced with the driver in it, it is strongly recommended both the toe and camber be adjusted to the baseline settings with the driver seated in the kart.

This is by far the best starting point for setting camber, and the exact setting can be fine tuned using tire wear as a guide. If you're lucky enough to have a tire temperature gauge, adjust from tire temperatures across the tread. Or, if using tire chalk you will have 1 ½” of chalk left on the outside of the right front and ½” left on the inside of the left front.

Mike McCarty
Chassis Manual Liquid Speed Tire Prep by Josh Philpott

www.kartcalc.com
www.220kartshop.com

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Ltg

03-28-11,, 07:20 AM

I agree that cross isn't nearly the end all adjustment that it is sometimes sold to be. I also agree that camber, especially RF camber is pretty important these days.

For those who want to understand more about camber do some searching for camber thrust; it is the primary end we seek when we camber the tires.

Also, putting camber in a tire doesn't have much effect on the contact patch size. The primary controller of contact patch size is the air pressure in the tire. Within reason, as long as the air pressure is the same the contact patch will be pretty much the same; camber won't have much effect on it. What camber does do is to reshape the contact patch (in addition to the camber thrust). As we put negative camber in the RF the contact patch will move inwards toward the center of the kart and it'll get longer in addition to the amount of camber thrust the tire makes increasing.

Todd
www.dynamicsofspeed.com

Msquared

03-28-11,, 08:00 PM

I am not going to pretend to be an expert here but just lend my thoughts as to what I think in response to what Joey and Todd have said. It is a lot to read (maybe a word record for 4cycle) but I feel it is well worth any reader’s time to do so. This is just my opinion and the way I look at it.

With a car there is a balance that has to be considered among the four corners of the chassis because each corner is independently suspended which is to say, it does not care about what connects one corner to the next. With a kart, each corner does have a suspension (the tires) but each corner, very much so, cares how it is connected to the next corner (the chassis itself). Because of this, you can’t think in terms of “balance” as it pertains to your setup percentages.

Since the “suspension” is the tires, the few square inches where the tires contact the tracks surface is the key to everything that happens in racing. These small areas, known as the contact patches care very much how they are presented to the tracks surface. Cornering forces are transmitted through all four contact patches. The most effective chassis setup makes optimum use of the contact patches, mainly the rightside tires and the left rear to a certain degree.

The construction of the tire, including the way the cords are wound into its carcass, as well as the nature of the rubber compound (including prep) and the shape of the tread (how it is cut), will determine the amount of force that the tire is able to generate under any given condition.

The shape of the tire's contact patch and the distribution of the vertical loads on the contact patch will determine the amount of force that the tire is able to generate.

Air pressure affects the way the vertical loads are distributed on the contact patch, as well as camber. In an ideal world, the loads would be evenly distributed across the tires contact patch. Available grip will be reduced if either or both edges of the contact patch are loaded less lightly than the rest of the contact patch or if the middle part of the contact patch is less lightly loaded than the edges.

Pay very close attention to this, a small-diameter, wide tire will have a short, wide contact patch and will tend to be more affected by camber and air pressure and will have less available grip. So the tire will be more sensitive to air pressure and camber adjustments.

As lateral forces increase, the contact patch distorts as mentioned in a previous post. This changes the nature of the forces which are generated. As longitudinal forces increase, the contact patch also distorts, but in a different way. So, both lateral and longitudinal forces distort the contact patch but in different ways.

The forces acting on the tire are the vertical loads induced by the chassis, the longitudinal forces induced by the power transmitted from the engine (not being that much), and lateral forces induced by cornering.

A tire is able to generate a given amount of maximum horizontal force under any given set of conditions. Any combination of lateral and longitudinal forces greater than this will cause the tire to slide and the forces available will decline.

If a tire is generating its maximum amount of longitudinal force, it will not be able to generate any lateral force. If the tire is generating its maximum amount of lateral force, there will be no longitudinal grip available. If a tire is generating a combination of longitudinal and lateral forces at its maximum, any increase in force in one direction must be accompanied by a decrease in force in the other direction. This is part of the reason that you adjust your setup percentages and why you adjust the dynamic loading on each tire.

As lateral load is applied to the tire during cornering, the tire generates a lateral force to oppose this load. As it generates this force, the tire begins to distort. The carcass flexes and distorts laterally. As a result, as the tire rolls, it “moves” sideways a little with each revolution.
The rubber in the contact patch also distorts, flexing sideways so that the contact patch is displaced laterally from its position at rest. The trailing part of the contact patch is displaced more than the leading part.

The result is that a tire under lateral load does not travel down the track in a direction parallel to the tire's centerline (i.e. perpendicular to the axle's centerline). It travels at an angle to the tire's centerline. The difference between the tire's centerline and the direction of travel is called the slip angle. The slip angle in basic terms means that the tire is turned more than in the direction of turn it is trying to negotiate.
As the tires slip angle increases, the grip available from that tire increases - to a certain point. After the optimum amount of slip angle for a given tire is reached, the amount of grip available begins to decrease as slip angle increases. Once you reach the limit of the optimum amount of slip angle, you've lost control. Think of a kart that pushes, you have the steering cranked as far to the left as you can get it, but the kart wants to go straight. You have gone over the optimal amount of the tires slip angle relative to the vertical load that the front tires are carrying.

Any tire generates its maximum lateral grip at a given slip angle, which is determined by the construction of the tire and its rubber compound. At slip angles higher than the tires peak slip angle, the available lateral force declines. Above a certain slip ratio, the tire is sliding and has no directional stability.

Bias ply tires, such as those on our karts tend to generate their optimum force at a relatively high slip angle; I’d say about 9 degrees or more. You can see this if watching a kart from the inside of the track. The rear of the kart is yawed out because of the angle of attack (slip angle) the front tires are creating. For this reason, bias ply tires tend to be more forgiving. A radial tire would probably break loose at this yaw rate.

When a tire is cambered with respect to the chassis, it will generate a lateral force in the direction of its camber. If it has negative camber like we have on our karts, it will generate a force toward the center of the chassis. This force is called camber thrust.

The use of negative camber on both sides of the kart would generate camber thrust at each tire. On the straights, these forces balance each other out. However, in the corners, the leftside tires become more lightly loaded, while the rightside tires become more heavily loaded. The right front tires' additional camber thrust produces a slight increase in useful lateral force, yielding an increase in cornering speed. I believe this is what Joey and Todd are referring to. Now we all know that you run positive camber on the left front.

Camber affects the vertical load distribution of the tires contact patch and can also impact the shape of the contact patch. As lateral loads increase, the tire tends to distort, or "roll under". Depending on the chassis camber change characteristics (due to chassis flex at the front), the “rolling” (all-be-it ever so slight) of the chassis about its longitudinal axis may tend to aggravate this. This is why understanding all these imaginary lines are important to understanding how and why a chassis works.

Imagine that your kart has zero right front camber. The result is that the inside edge of the tire tends to become more lightly loaded as cornering loads increase. The inside edge of the tire may even pick up off the track, losing contact with the track surface entirely. This results in less cornering force and speed.

However, if the chassis is set up so the right front has negative camber when the chassis is static, this will compensate for the distortion of the tire and the rolling moment of the chassis as I mentioned in my previous post. In the static state, the outside edge of the tire will be lightly loaded and the inside edge will be heavily loaded, but as the lateral loads go up and the chassis rolls, the outside edge will be loaded more and the inside edge will be loaded less. It is a fine line that you are looking for. It is also why karts are camber sensitive.
If the amount of camber is optimal, both edges of the tire will be loaded approximately equal when the kart is cornering at the tires' maximum grip. This will be reflected in the tire's temperatures after doing several laps on the track. The temperature on the inside edge should equal that of the outside edge. This is in an optimal world but in the real world the inside edge will be hotter than the outside edge of the contact patch.

Air pressure affects the shape of the tires contact patch. Ideally, air pressure should be such that when the tire is hot, the contact patch is subjected to equal vertical forces across the width of the tire.
If the air pressure is too low, the middle part of the tire will be more lightly loaded and the edges will be more heavily loaded, resulting in less than optimal grip.

If the air pressure is too high, the middle part will bulge out and unload the edges of the tires, which will also result in reduced grip.
The air pressure increases as the tires get hot. With optimal air pressure, when the tires are cold, the edges of the tire will be heavily loaded and the middle of the tire will be lightly loaded, but as the tires heat up the forces will become balanced across the tire, resulting in a middle tire temperature that is roughly equal to the average of the tire's edge temperatures. This is the where and why I like to use tire temps. It is well known that some on here find no value in them. That is OK.

The very nature of a tires' reaction to increased vertical load is of critical importance to balancing the kart so that it neither understeers or ovesteers excessively. The kart is going to do one or the other to a certain degree. Hopefully slightly loose getting in and slightly pushy coming off.

If one end of the kart is gripping more than the other, then you can increase roll stiffness at that end of the kart relative to the other end. This will increase the vertical load on the outside tire and reduce the vertical load on the inside tire at the end that was adjusted.
The additional load will cause the outside tire on the newly stiffened end to become slightly less efficient and the inside tire to become slightly more efficient. However, since the inside tire is generating less than half of the overall grip at that end, the net result will be a slight decrease in overall grip at that end. I tend to think of this as the grip balance of the kart.

Now, the other end, which has been softened in roll stiffness relative to the formerly more grippier end, will experience the opposite. Its outside tire will now see less vertical load and the inside tire will see more vertical load. The outside, now more heavily loaded tire will become more efficient, which will increase the overall grip at that end.
The net effect is that the formerly grippy end of the kart will become less grippy, and the other end will become slightly more grippy, moving the overall grip of the kart closer to a balanced state.

I am going to stop here as I have covered quite a lot of material. If anyone has my chassis manual it should now be pretty clear as to why you need to understand all of these imaginary lines, cross axis, jacking axis, roll axis, roll centers and caster trail to name a few. It should be pretty clear as to why you need to understand weight transfer.

Mike McCarty
Chassis Manual
Liquid Speed Tire Prep by Josh Philpott

www.kartcalc.com
www.220kartshop.com

hogans goat

03-29-11,, 07:46 AM

Mike, thank you for a great post.

I take great pains and make every effort to reduce "scrub radius". My mind tells me that scrub radius limits the RF tire's ability to follow it's line and causes the direction of force to "push" it sideways.

I am haunted by the sight of a 1/4 midget reversing direction in an instant. The appearance of perpetual motion.

What are your thoughts on scrub and it's impact on cornering ?

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Msquared

03-31-11,, 04:15 PM

This one is tough. On one hand I can argue that karts need it. On the other I can argue that they do not need it. I am going to lay out my thoughts; hopefully Joey, Todd or Al will chime in.

On most LTO chassis you tuck the RF in as far as you can get it. To me that is minimizing scrub radius. On the LF some will run it all the way in while some will run it a spacer or two out. Many will move the LF in and out depending on the conditions but will rarely move the RF. If I need more jacking effect I’d rather adjust caster to get it than to adjust scrub radius.

On a Sprint kart you have to have scrub radius and most run the front track as wide as they can get it, within reason. They need to do this because they run no stagger (mainly rear stagger) and need more of the jacking effect to gain leverage over the rear tires when cornering. The majority of material that I have read on the internet deals with Sprint karts and very little on LTO karts. You will see some of the same articles on Sprint kart sites and LTO sites. There are differences between the two karts and reasons why some things will work and others will not work.

With a Sprint kart they basically need to unload say the LR fast while planting the RR faster when cornering. They also use a lot more steering input. Most will run negative camber on both sides of the front tires. They also need lots of caster as well.

On an LTO kart we do not need the excessive amounts of caster and scrub radius as the Sprint karts need. The two main reasons are stagger and we are turning in only one direction, left, hopefully!

For LTO karts some have scrub radius and some do not. I believe it is important to have scrub radius on the LF and none on the RF. Here is my reasoning. On the RF it has more to do with where the tire pivots relative to the scrub radius. If a kart has zero scrub radius, then the tire pivots on the center of the contact patch. As the tire pivots one side loses pressure and the other side gains pressure. On the RF that would mean that the inside of the RF is gaining pressure and load or not unloading as much due to the lessened rise of the RF tire. This lessens the “releasing” of the LR meaning more drive or speed through the corners. If the pivot point is on the outside of the tire, and you turn left, you are gaining weight all across the tire. This is exactly what you do not want in a car. You are putting weight on the wrong wheel. If the pivot point is on the inside of the tire, and you turn the wheel left, the whole tire is losing weight. This means that you are gaining weight on the right rear. This is exactly what you want in a car but not in a kart. If you move the pivot point out farther than the outside or inside of the tire, you are essentially magnifying the effect. I believe this is what Hogan’s Goat is referring to with the Quarter Midget.

The LF is a little different. We need it to jack weight. One of the reasons we run positive camber on the LF is to change the pivot point of the tire to the outside as mentioned above. This is why when the LF is at an optimal setting the tire temp is even across the contact patch. What is needed from the LF is enough grip for turn-in and to jack just enough weight to give the RR some grip to initiate weight transfer by tipping the kart over onto the RF thus unloading the LR. In it’s simplest from the LF needs to initiate turn-in, the RR needs to grip to tip the kart over onto the RF, the RF needs to raise up enough to unload the LR.

My gut feeling is that you want to have a scrub radius greater than the lateral deflection of the tire. This means that the moment being applied to the steering system is always going in the same direction. If you were to run a scrub radius smaller than the lateral contact patch deflection, then the sign of the moment around the (imaginary) king-pin is going to flip. That just seems wrong to me.

If the scrub radius is positive, then the moments of the inside and outside tire tend to cancel each other. If you run a small scrub radius, then the inside will go towards more positive and the outside will go towards more negative. If the deflection is more than the scrub radius, the moments are in the same direction, adding to the force at the steering wheel. In this way you can try for a small steering effort, but end up making heavier steering. Having said all this, I think it's probably better to concentrate on camber gains and roll center movement. In the end it all matters. I’m sure if you could find the optimal setup for a particular day you would not be fast but wicked fast!

Karts require weight transfer onto the rightside tires in order to generate grip from those tires. A narrowing of the front track should allow you to gain apex and exit grip. In this scenario, the narrow front track width allows the weight to transfer with greater force onto the rightside tires. If you look at todays designs, they run lots of leftside and cross. That makes the RR very light, to compensate they have stiffened the RR considerably. To me the reason why is because they wanted the weight to transfer to it with greater force but to minimize RR loading and point more weight towards the RF. This is another topic but it somewhat relates.

Now for choosing one adjustment over the other. Most of the time more or less jacking effect is needed, so, which one, caster or scrub radius and why? The easiest way to adjust scrub radius is by moving the front wheels in or out. I do not prefer this method and here is why. First of all moving the front wheels in or out is adjusting the front track width. This affects not only scrub radius but also impacts chassis height or the CG across the front of the chassis, the leverage on the chassis by the front tires and dynamic wheelbase change. It also affects roll stiffness softening the front of the chassis. Less load will be moved to the RF and the RR will see more loading which is not a good thing in certain conditions. I’d prefer to use caster and here is why. Caster can achieve the same thing without all the other “side effects”.

The next part deals with driver comfort. If you go too far with caster the kart will become twitchy. If the scrub radius is too wide the steering becomes too sensitive and too heavy due to the weight of the kart. Both will make it difficult for a driver to relax because he is sawing at the steering like an old school lumber jack. This scrubs off speed. If you go too wide on the front track the kart simply looses grip and pushes.

That’s my take on it. Anyone have any thoughts?

Mike McCarty
Chassis Manual
Liquid Speed Tire Prep by Josh Philpott

www.kartcalc.com
www.220kartshop.com

BTW, you cant post anymore than 10,000 characters in one post. As I just found out.

Mike just recently updated his book

I got a copy before it went to re-print.

Mike's book is a GREAT read. Easy to understand and speaks of things in layman's terms. Doesn't talk over your head.

Great to have his number on speed dial as well!!

Lots of time to type all that out...good info...

I am still around, but not as much.

Mktracing, I would strongly suggest the books with all those questions.

Read and check back with the Msquared Files. I will be adding info there from time to time.

Glad Mark kept some of the info.

BTW, if anyone remembers Pat Dotson, his home was hit by a tornado in Kokomo! Not as bad as the others.

Mike McCarty
Chassis Manual (Only \$17.95)
www.kartcalc.com

All this talk about dirt and pavement, what about concrete and coke syrup? That's different as well! What's a base line setup with the new technology chassis?

Cranking up an old thread here because I looked up Mikes website an it's no longer active. I really appreciated talking with this guy and never got around to getting a copy of his book. Anyone know where I might get a copy?

Or is Mike still around on here somewhere?

Cranking up an old thread here because I looked up Mikes website an it's no longer active. I really appreciated talking with this guy and never got around to getting a copy of his book. Anyone know where I might get a copy?

Or is Mike still around on here somewhere?

Post #17