Put it on some scales last night. Added 5lb to the nose and this is his current numbersYou can move weight around when you have weight, move seat if needed and even motor, 56% left, 46 % nose, 58 % cross, 2.5 RF neg camber, .5 LF pos camber.
What is the left ? And cambers ?Put it on some scales last night. Added 5lb to the nose and this is his current numbers
46% nose
53% rear
63% cross
Not sure it was about 2am this morning and I didn't look at the numbers myself just what the guy told me. Im going to work on it some more next week. I made small adjustments here and there and got him looking alot better on the trackWhat is the left ? And cambers ?
I would not go over 60 % on the cross
Still way to loose in the turns especially on entry, confirm left and cambers, how much rear stagger ? How far is the RR & LR from inside edge of wheels off the frame ? How much air pressures ?Not sure it was about 2am this morning and I didn't look at the numbers myself just what the guy told me. Im going to work on it some more next week. I made small adjustments here and there and got him looking alot better on the track
The wrong in running a 13 tooth driver on a track that size is WASTED track time, he had to change that many teeth because he was turning way to many RPM and was gear bound, once your gear bound changing only 1 tooth at a time will not cut it, once he gets the kart handling he'll be making even more gearing adjustments.I see nothing wrong wit running a 13 tooth driver. I think you should start out with the same, or nearly the same, gear ratio. I would only change the axle gear's one tooth at a time. Your first post had you changing way too many teeth. Big ratio jump!
Are they both spaced out a lot from inside edge of wheel to the frame ? If so that's why it's so loose.I've got to get some new rear hubs the allen heads are stripped out from the previous owner. When I get them I'm going to put it on the scales again.
Both sides are very close, right side is almost touching. Ill take a couple pictures laterAre they both spaced out a lot from inside edge of wheel to the frame ? If so that's why it's so loose.
After changing the gears to a 15 driver and 64 rear he is still cranking about 5200rpmI see nothing wrong wit running a 13 tooth driver. I think you should start out with the same, or nearly the same, gear ratio. I would only change the axle gear's one tooth at a time. Your first post had you changing way too many teeth. Big ratio jump!
Well there not to far out, the LR needs moved out a quarter inch, Confirm your left % and cambers, and air pressures, maybe something there pops out, or maybe your loose condition is caused by a push and to much wheel input,
2"on front seems alot to me, but Promoter will definitely point you in right directionStagger
32LF. 34RF
32.5LR 33.5 RR
Did you scale it with these staggers, and raced it the same ?Stagger
32LF. 34RF
32.5LR 33.5 RR
Yea been using this setup the entire time. I did try swapping the right side but it made him extremely looseDid you scale it with these staggers, and raced it the same ?
Ya that would of really magnified it way to much rear stagger, Shrink that RF a 1/2 " that will lower the cross a little, what were your air pressures ?Yea been using this setup the entire time. I did try swapping the right side but it made him extremely loose
2.5 and 3Ya that would of really magnified it way to much rear stagger, Shrink that RF a 1/2 " that will lower the cross a little, what were your air pressures ?