Track Tac

1/10 Dirt Oval Gear Setup

Hrtmn450 said:
Put tires at 1-3/16 stagger front and rear. 4.5 left 5.5 right, ( you need roll speed.) Are you using tire prep? How many sets of tires do you have? 33s fire like crazy on goat but u cant run them every week and goat. If its definitely a 33 track I'd be punching high 50s and be on goat. Put that right front down into the ground some I'd try 3-4 flats and see how it turns. You gotta get it turning before you worrie about gear. Should be able to flat foot a preditor. If hes lifting karts way wrong. Just my 2 cents.
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They are 33s not sure what they are punching. When its only him on the track he doesn't let off the fuel but with other kids on the track he lets off to keep from hitting them, He did try passing on the high side last time he raced and learned fast that the high side was to loose when he smacked a fence post.
 
GClary said:
The best thing I can tell you from running my Bad Max on a similar track . Set 1 1/2 inch stagger front to start , 1 inch in the rear , get your % where you want it , then up cross 3% and add a puck of 5lbs weight to the front center , with the bolt going right straight thru the star . Don't know why , but that always helped me . And Tires , Tires , Tires . That track needs prep on tires and better track prep . JMO
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That's close to what I've got his stagger at now, And yes the track is in desperate need of better prep. But in the owners of the tracks defense this is their 1st year running the track and they have worked wonders on it this year gets better every week.
 
flattop1 said:
When you can plug your spread sheet into the kart and adjust the %'s .
Then you would have the best thing since buttered bread .
Until then it's a tool to play with nothing more .
It's nice , it's accurate and it's quicker then a pencil and paper .
I can play around with it and my weights but translating the results too the chassis is a totally different situation .
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IS this a good time to mention the next big thing in karting? Sliding weight, much like an airplane does when balancing the cabin weight before take off. It's an idea nothing more lol
 
KochRacing said:
IS this a good time to mention the next big thing in karting? Sliding weight, much like an airplane does when balancing the cabin weight before take off. It's an idea nothing more lol
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It probably has been tried , lol , but the whole process would be to slow to react then counter react , as well as to problematic to achieve . JMO
 
KochRacing said:
They are 33s not sure what they are punching. When its only him on the track he doesn't let off the fuel but with other kids on the track he lets off to keep from hitting them, He did try passing on the high side last time he raced and learned fast that the high side was to loose when he smacked a fence post.
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Preditor racing is all about momentum. 90% of preditor races are won with tires. The rest is chassis setup and gear. The idea of prep is to get the tire to fire off before it has heat in it and makes it's own bite. Be carefull with aggressive preps as u will ruin tires quick. Invest in a durometer and see what they are punching. If you have 2 sets I would prep a set for each week and rotate them. Goat p is what alot of guys turn too on 33s. But you need to let them sit after you wipe them with it as it will drop duro alot.
I'll run a set of 33s for hotlaps and heat race take them off and be on another set for the feature and wipe them right before i push to the grid. Then they get cleaned and sit for atleast a week and I'm on 2 other sets next week. That way the duro comes back up some and I'm not killing tires. Typically get 2 seasons out of tires wiped with goat. Its unfortunate you have to kill tires to be competitive but like i said preditor class is all about momentum. Ask some of the bigger clone guys if they have any older sets of 33s they would sell. I wouldnt be scared of a set that was 2-3 years old punching high 50s low 60s just make sure you know what prep is in them. I also dont swap tires around meaning once I have a set of 4 they stay togeather and always get the same prep wiped in them no matter what. It's supposed to be a budget class but it takes alot of money and tires to keep up with the big guys.
 
flattop1 said:
When you can plug your spread sheet into the kart and adjust the %'s .
Then you would have the best thing since buttered bread .
Until then it's a tool to play with nothing more .
It's nice , it's accurate and it's quicker then a pencil and paper .
I can play around with it and my weights but translating the results too the chassis is a totally different situation .
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100% correct!! It's tool! And like any other tool, your skill at using it is all important. It's just an adding machine. You give it input, it does the calculations and gives you an answer. It's only an aid to "your" analytical skills. Instantaneous answers to your input "what if I do this". Just a fancy calculator, no more.
 
I've got his kart completely stripped down now, Going to repaint frame change bearings all that good stuff and take it to a shop to have it scaled out right and everything aligned before next season. I found that 1 wheel bearing had locked up and was spinning inside of the cassette and Also on both sides on the front there was no washers on the bottom they was all on top. (Is that normal?)

I also found that he did the best with a 15 driver and a 64 rear gear.

Again I would like to thank everyone on here who helped me get him driving better and getting his kart in better shape. I'm sure i'll be back soon with more questions lol
 
13/55 * 15/64 Within .02.
Looking for the right ratio, I went one tooth at a time.
I don't know what people charge to scale a kart, but from what I've heard, you can go to Walmart and buy 4 analog scales and do-it-yourself.
Steep banking equals more air, less stagger, less gear.
Start with what has been suggested,, change to suit.
RPM – one tooth on the axle(+/-) equals 100 RPM(+/-) on the top, not exactly but very close.
If you hold the brake and floor It, what's the RPM? I call that stall RPM. It should be where the engine reaches peak torque. Just guessing, somewhere around 3300 RPM.
Jetting, real tricky. What's the jetting in your kart? Are there rules?
 
KochRacing said:
2.5 and 3

I tried 4 and 5 like was suggested and he wouldn't get any bite. Spun out non
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"Spun out"? So the front was biting and the rear was not? Might be a weight distribution problem. May be a trend With problem? Maybe a stagger problem?
Have you put it on the scales yet?
 
alvin l nunley said:
"Spun out"? So the front was biting and the rear was not? Might be a weight distribution problem. May be a trend With problem? Maybe a stagger problem?
Have you put it on the scales yet?
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Yes and no... LOL it was put on scales before I took the kart apart to rebuild it and it was close to what it needed to be i think it needed a little bit more Cross according to @racing promotor , We also adjusted tire pressure and tried a little different stagger to stop him spinning out in the curves.
This is the current condition of the kart. will have new paint, bearings, seat, and body before i take it to a local Go-Kart shop to have them help me set up the scaling and alignment of the front end. Our track has already posted the race schedule for next year and looks like he will be back in the saddle 1st weekend in April.
 

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KochRacing said:
Predator 212 from harbor freight. Take it out of the box disconnect the low oil sensor, drill a 1/4 hole in the gas cap, Max 5500RPM
Everything stays stock on the motor.
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"OTB"? I'll believe that when dealers are picked to sell the engines already completely sealed. Highly unlikely. Tinkerers will find ways to enhance the performance, of that I have no doubt. Even within the rules!
 
alvin l nunley said:
"OTB"? I'll believe that when dealers are picked to sell the engines already completely sealed. Highly unlikely. Tinkerers will find ways to enhance the performance, of that I have no doubt. Even within the rules!
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Yep OTB Stock. Some people do actually run stock My kid included. But that is a small amount of people lol
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Gear ratios; if you add one tooth to the axle, and you gain 100 RPM, you're going the same speed, approximately, as before you added one tooth.

Track size; walk across the infield, one step is about 3 feet. That veris some.

Turn banking; the steeper the banking, the less stagger you need and the more air pressure you need. Anybody who says you need less pressure on a track with banking is sadly mistaken.

Find a gear ratio chart, keep it handy. 15/64 may be close, or 14/60, or 13/56, all the same ratio. If I was going to try to find the right ratio, I'd be changing one tooth at a time on the axle. If you add a tooth to the axle, and you don't pick up 100 RPM, you're going slower on the top.

Clutch engagement; the clutch should be set to slip on the starts at the peak torque RPM. Don't know your engine exactly, but I would guess somewhere between 3000 and 3600.
 
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