Track Tac

1/5 Oval medium grip

G

Geoff Dale

Member
I’m new to karting and I’m completely flying blind on what gear ratio I should be using. The track I would be running on is a mix of clay and decompose granite with tight turns. I’ve been told to use a 10-70 gear. I’m guessing my total weight would be around 360 pounds and my motor combination is a Tillotson stage one. Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
 
Geoff Dale said:
I’m new to karting and I’m completely flying blind on what gear ratio I should be using. The track I would be running on is a mix of clay and decompose granite with tight turns. I’ve been told to use a 10-70 gear. I’m guessing my total weight would be around 360 pounds and my motor combination is a Tillotson stage one. Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
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How many RPMs do you need to turn it ?
 
No way a 10/70 would work unless you have really big diameter tires .
1/5th mile is 1000 feet+ .
11/80 with 36" diameter (circumference) tire , we turned 7500 on a tenth of a mile track .
 
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Whoops circumference not diameter
Geoff Dale said:
I did purchase some tires from a fellow that are Large diameter.
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Going to need some additional info .
A stage one Tilloston engine should turn more rpm then 5000 is it restricted in some way ?
A flat kart not a micro midget or mini sprint ?
Treads or slicks ?
 
Kart, as I mentioned I’m new to karting. Yes the Tillotson has a flywheel that’s rated for 10,000 RPMs I’m sure I could probably run it up to 6000 with no problems. Here’s a picture of my Kart.
F803C254-9AFB-4211-8D4B-AB160FD34744.jpeg
 
Geoff Dale said:
4500 5000
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WOW I was expecting you to say 10,000 plus, Something Waaaaaaaaaaaay off for an AKRA clone on a flat kart 16/60 to turn 6800 rpm, with a 10 driver you would need to be on a 36 rear driver, that would put you 34 teeth off or 3400 rpm. on the akra clone, To only turn 5000 RPM on a 1/5th mile that's right where a predator would turn, and there gearing would be 19/57, I realize that's a different motor but it would have to be somewhere in the middle and there's NO WAY a 10/70 is right, If I had to show up totally in the dark with no proven info, and I didn't have the mini gears, I'd start with a 17/56 and still hope I wasn't gear bound not getting correct rpm readings.
 
racing promotor said:
WOW I was expecting you to say 10,000 plus, Something Waaaaaaaaaaaay off for an AKRA clone on a flat kart 16/60 to turn 6800 rpm, with a 10 driver you would need to be on a 36 rear driver, that would put you 34 teeth off or 3400 rpm. on the akra clone, To only turn 5000 RPM on a 1/5th mile that's right where a predator would turn, and there gearing would be 19/57, I realize that's a different motor but it would have to be somewhere in the middle and there's NO WAY a 10/70 is right, If I had to show up totally in the dark with no proven info, and I didn't have the mini gears, I'd start with a 17/56 and still hope I wasn't gear bound not getting correct rpm readings.
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Thank you, I’m definitely flying blind. I’m about to shut everything down and do way more research before I even hit the track. I raced stock cars years ago and it was way easier than this. I honestly thought I would have more open people around that would give you a little more info. Not the case I guess. Back to the drawing board.
 
Geoff Dale said:
Thank you, I’m definitely flying blind. I’m about to shut everything down and do way more research before I even hit the track. I raced stock cars years ago and it was way easier than this. I honestly thought I would have more open people around that would give you a little more info. Not the case I guess. Back to the drawing board.
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one reason the info is way off could be the track is a lot smaller than a 1/5 th mile, the engine is not restricted with a plate is it ?
 
Geoff Dale said:
Thank you, I’m definitely flying blind. I’m about to shut everything down and do way more research before I even hit the track. I raced stock cars years ago and it was way easier than this. I honestly thought I would have more open people around that would give you a little more info. Not the case I guess. Back to the drawing board.
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Oh come on , you ask one question with limited info and its time to quit ?
did the 10/70 come from a decent source . Because thats a hard driver to get and use . The 10 tooth .
Your engine definitely should be turning 6-6500 rpm peak .
Get it assembled and get to the track the learning curve will be quick.
The name of the track could help .
RP is right on the gear . Start with 17/56 , unless its under 500 feet then an 11/72
 
flattop1 said:
Oh come on , you ask one question with limited info and its time to quit ?
did the 10/70 come from a decent source . Because thats a hard driver to get and use . The 10 tooth .
Your engine definitely should be turning 6-6500 rpm peak .
Get it assembled and get to the track the learning curve will be quick.
The name of the track could help .
RP is right on the gear . Start with 17/56 , unless its under 500 feet then an 11/72
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My apologies, I was talking local not yourself. The track is Camp Lockett. 1/6 mile. When you reference 500 feet are you talking about the straightaways? The source that gave me the 10 70 is a reliable source and he claimed that’s the gear he ran. Now that’s also different because that was his son driving the car and I’m not sure if that will change things with a person that’s possibly 70 pounds lighter. I’m going to order the parts tomorrow and I do appreciate the kick in the butt!
 
Geoff Dale said:
My apologies, I was talking local not yourself. The track is Camp Lockett. 1/6 mile. When you reference 500 feet are you talking about the straightaways? The source that gave me the 10 70 is a reliable source and he claimed that’s the gear he ran. Now that’s also different because that was his son driving the car and I’m not sure if that will change things with a person that’s possibly 70 pounds lighter. I’m going to order the parts tomorrow and I do appreciate the kick in the butt!
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The 500 feet he's referring to the entire track, might be true that's what he ran but that doesn't mean it's right.
 
I am thinking it was a yamaha engine . That would fit .
A 17 tooth a 56 and a 60 for the rear would give you an option .
Once you're up and running things will fall in place .
 
mike97760 said:
You might want to go to a race there and see what everyone else is running, along with noting what theyre doing with tires.
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Starting with new tires is a plus .
The chassis i see here looks like a straight rail .
Do you know the type or mfg and or year of mfg ?
©©
I might be tempted to try what stagger dog suggestes in the thread below about a trick setup .


Quote: But they told me that when this kart was designed it had the 11.5x600-6 tire on the right front. I tried it and what a difference, like the power steering is turn back on. My kart now handles great with ease. My last race I weighed 355# and my tires were LF 10.5X450-6 RF 11.5X600-6 with 1 5/16" stagger LR 11.5X600-6 RR 12.00X800-6 with 1" stagger.
Vs two 12/8/6 tires on the right .
 
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When I started kart racing I didn't know diddly about any of it. I had an Emmick straight rail kart and the first thing I did was put 10 inch wheels on the right side like most of the others had. It wouldnt turn. Finally a guy came over and explained it needed a smaller tire and wheel on the RF and it drove great
 
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mike97760 said:
When I started kart racing I didn't know diddly about any of it. I had an Emmick straight rail kart and the first thing I did was put 10 inch wheels on the right side like most of the others had. It wouldnt turn. Finally a guy came over and explained it needed a smaller tire and wheel on the RF and it drove great
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Straight rails need the RS tires spaced out further than on an LTO chassis, and the LS needs tucked in
 
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