125cc IAME Leopard Problems

Dan Brown

Member
His has the early push button box, and yes they do go bad. The later leopards had the key start system with the separate A electronic control box, they go bad as well, the wiring is extremely light and vibration takes it toll on them.
 

MarcusIrwin

Member
Good luck! Hope we helped a little. I would check the compression again, make sure the throttle is wide open when you test it so it gets in enough air. If you truly only have 120lbs , you need a to pull the head and check the ring /piston and cylinder wall as that is just too low.
I actually did not have the throttle open, how big of a difference will that make
 

Dan Brown

Member
Test it again, and hope it's much higher. That will rule out compression as your problem, and it can be narrowed down to spark , fuel or timing.
 

Jim46

Member
check the manifold pulse hose , if you let it sit for a while with a rag in the intake hole it might
have a bug in it ( don't ask me how I know )
 

Dan Brown

Member
Leopards don't have a pulse hose, they have the pulse drawn thru an orifice machined directly thru the intake manifold into the mounting face of the carb. He does need to make sure the intake and reed cage gaskets are installed properly so that the hole in the gasket lines up with the orifice or it will not draw fuel.
 

MarcusIrwin

Member
Leopards don't have a pulse hose, they have the pulse drawn thru an orifice machined directly thru the intake manifold into the mounting face of the carb. He does need to make sure the intake and reed cage gaskets are installed properly so that the hole in the gasket lines up with the orifice or it will not draw fuel.
ill be looking at everything tomorrow, just to make sure lining up the carb, reeds, gaskets all that front engine stuff is pretty self explanatory like any other engine correct? Just line everything up and make sure the gaskets are on correctly not blocking any holes.
 

Dan Brown

Member
Correct. Make sure the reeds aren’t broken, when you install the reed cage and manifold make sure the gaskets aren’t blocking the pulse orifice and that everything lines up all the way to the carb.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
It shold be a small hole that leads too the crankcase or intake tract .
Throuh the reed cage too a small hole on the carb .
Its how it pulses the diagram in the carb .
As long as you're there make sure its no plugged .
I believe its in the upper left .
Always install the carburetor with the fuel inlet/filter on top. Also make sure to lift up the carburetor while tightening the 2 nuts. This will line up the carburetor pulse hole with the intake pulse hole. Never set an idle; let the throttle shaft plate barely touch the adjuster screw. Check with your tech inspector if it is legal to cut you’re air-filter and any extra rubber flanges off right inside the air box. It is recommended to utilize the external screens on the inlet tubes. Also ask the tech director about the following item. Smear a heavy-duty axle bearing grease on the bottom of the airbox to potentially stop any debris from entering your engine. To properly install your airbox, you will want to fabricate a cradle mount that will allow the airbox to sit in a non-binding manner. Use rubber O-rings to secure the airbox to the cradle. Always check with the tech director on legal use of airboxes. Some rules are open and non-tech while others you must run the manufactured supplied airbox.
 
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MarcusIrwin

Member
It shold be a small hole that leads too the crankcase or intake tract .
Throuh the reed cage too a small hole on the carb .
Its how it pulses the diagram in the carb .
As long as you're there make sure its no plugged .
I believe its in the upper left .
Always install the carburetor with the fuel inlet/filter on top. Also make sure to lift up the carburetor while tightening the 2 nuts. This will line up the carburetor pulse hole with the intake pulse hole. Never set an idle; let the throttle shaft plate barely touch the adjuster screw. Check with your tech inspector if it is legal to cut you’re air-filter and any extra rubber flanges off right inside the air box. It is recommended to utilize the external screens on the inlet tubes. Also ask the tech director about the following item. Smear a heavy-duty axle bearing grease on the bottom of the airbox to potentially stop any debris from entering your engine. To properly install your airbox, you will want to fabricate a cradle mount that will allow the airbox to sit in a non-binding manner. Use rubber O-rings to secure the airbox to the cradle. Always check with the tech director on legal use of airboxes. Some rules are open and non-tech while others you must run the manufactured supplied airbox.
Ok I’ll make sure to check all of these things out
 

MarcusIrwin

Member
@Dan Brown @flattop1
So here is where I got over the weekend, put the old coil back on, grounded (have a new ground cable but cannot figure out how to get those rubber dampeners off, but I'm sure the old one is fine). But had to stop there, I'm sure you guys can see why, I had a problem with pulling the carb, as you can see on the fuel inlet hahaha, got that all ordered, ill update you guys when I get that all fixed. Besides the fact, I compression tested it again with the throttle open, and it still only read 120lbs, throttle open 120lbs, throttle closed 120lbs. wasn't able to check the spark or the pulse orifice.
 

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MarcusIrwin

Member
also on your guys' leopards, does it have 2 ground leads that go to the engine? as you can see there are 2 leads that are bolted to my engine grounding whatever items, the harness looks to be stock but from what i've seen from other people I feel like there should only be one lead.
 

Dan Brown

Member
The carb nipple breaking is common, I use a heat gun and warm the fuel line in cooler weather to help get it off. You can still remove the carb and check the gaskets to make sure the pulse orifice isn't blocked by the gaskets. Remove the clutch cover first, then remove the 2 small nuts holding the carb on with a 10mm wrench. On the back of the carb is the pulse orifice, male sure the carb mounting gasket 's hole is lined up properly. The remove the 4 allen head screws that hold in the reeds and check that those gaskets are lined up properly too. The reed gaskets tear easily , if the reeds haven't been out lately and it ran before I would think they are installed correctly. Your braided ground wire behind the coil looks fine, as long as one side is touching the coil and the other is behind the rubber isolator you are good. The harness comes with one large ground wire that bolts onto the engine, the second small ground that some harnesses have hooks to the coil mounting screw, however with the braided ground wire hooked up that small one hooked to the engine is doing the exact same thing. If you crank it over and it has a good bright spark your electrical system is fine. If your gauge is reading properly and it only has 120 lbs of compression it will need a rebuild.
 

Dan Brown

Member
Pull the 3 exhaust header nuts off, turn the engine over with a wrench until you can see the ring and the top and side of the piston thru the exhaust port. Take a pic of the piston and post it, plus put the piston all the way down in the bore and take a pic of the cylinder wall and post that.
 

Dan Brown

Member
I checked my harness, the main ground has 2 ground wires connected into one ring connector. I am assuming your second ground wire is just the original 2 wires with replacement ring connectors.
 

MarcusIrwin

Member
I checked my harness, the main ground has 2 ground wires connected into one ring connector. I am assuming your second ground wire is just the original 2 wires with replacement ring connectors.
ok cool thats good to know, this weekend ill hopefully get everything checked out
 

MarcusIrwin

Member
@Dan Brown @flattop1
ok so I have discovered that the pulse orifice is configured correctly with with the gaskets as well as not clogged (just to make sure). I haven't gotten my carb part yet so haven't been able to test anything but here is some pictures of the cylinder, rings, and piston
 

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