125cc IAME Leopard Problems

[MarcusIrwin]

Here's some extra pictures of the reeds, not broken, and an instant in time to prove that it has spark, and yes it sparks repetitively.

 

[flattop1]

Good thing is the pistons not destroyed . Picture 2 shows what looks like a pretty good score in the cyinder .
Dan Brown will know better the I .

 

[Dan Brown]

@Dan Brown @flattop1
ok so I have discovered that the pulse orifice is configured correctly with with the gaskets as well as not clogged (just to make sure). I haven't gotten my carb part yet so haven't been able to test anything but here is some pictures of the cylinder, rings, and piston

You have a lot of scoring on the ring and piston. It doesn’t appear to have seized, it just appears to have a lot of run time on it.

 

[Dan Brown]

Your spark looks great, if You have fuel getting to it then I would say you need at least a top end overhaul,the low compression would be the problem. With only 120 lbs. it is going to have to be done regardless if you can get it started or not.

 

[MarcusIrwin]

Your spark looks great, if You have fuel getting to it then I would say you need at least a top end overhaul,the low compression would be the problem. With only 120 lbs. it is going to have to be done regardless if you can get it started or not.

Ok if I'm being honest, what does that exactly entail, I'm a noobie when it comes to these engines, is there any great resources out there for rebuild guides? I've rebuilt a kt100 and put a new piston in it etc. But that was kind of of a different type of project, what should I buy, should I go to a machine shop ect?

 

[MarcusIrwin]

Because I think i might as well just go though with the rebuild at this point I guess

 

[Dan Brown]

The cylinder will need to be honed, do not use one of those parts store flex hones they taper a cylinder and put it out of round in a hurry. A new piston and ring need to be fitted, I always change the upper rod cage bearing and pin too, the recommended life of Them is only 6 hours. If you were closer to me, I am in NY, you could bring it to my shop and I could look it over good and see exactly why it won’t start and what it needs internally. The problem with leopards is the cost of a rebuild now can be more than the engine is worth. A couple years ago a fast leopard was $2000 to buy one, now they are $500 .

 

[MarcusIrwin]

The cylinder will need to be honed, do not use one of those parts store flex hones they taper a cylinder and put it out of round in a hurry. A new piston and ring need to be fitted, I always change the upper rod cage bearing and pin too, the recommended life of Them is only 6 hours. If you were closer to me, I am in NY, you could bring it to my shop and I could look it over good and see exactly why it won’t start and what it needs internally. The problem with leopards is the cost of a rebuild now can be more than the engine is worth. A couple years ago a fast leopard was $2000 to buy one, now they are $500 .

If I'm not mistaken I found a piston kit on Cometkart.com for 1000 with a piston and ring, and i could get a cage bearing too, would that not work? And then could go get it honed for 30$ at a machine shop

 

[MarcusIrwin]

Also I found a picture of 2 grounds in a user maul for the leopard and was wondering what you think about it. It shows the guy putting a ground onto the chassis from the coil.

 

[flattop1]

Another ground won't hurt . Chances of it fixing your problem are slim .
Hone and piston /rings is the way too go . Mechanically not that much different then a kt . Wet vs air cooled . Machine shops are hit and miss imo.
Kart specific person would be better .

 

[Dan Brown]

Also I found a picture of 2 grounds in a user maul for the leopard and was wondering what you think about it. It shows the guy putting a ground onto the chassis from the coil.

The ground wire running from the battery is connected to the engine, so the coil ground needs to connect to the engine as well to complete the circuit, running a ground to the frame won't help. You have good spark in that pic you sent, so electrical issues seem to be ruled out at this point. I believe the low compression is the problem.

 

[Dan Brown]

Are you cranking it with the onboard starter or are you using a hand held remote starter? Leopards are notorious for having spark with the plug removed , but when the plug is installed the engine compression causes the built in starter to spin the engine slower, and it is not enough rpm to allow it to spark. We always start them with a hand held starter when they are cold, once warmed up and they will sometimes start with the onboard starter.

 

[MarcusIrwin]

Are you cranking it with the onboard starter or are you using a hand held remote starter? Leopards are notorious for having spark with the plug removed , but when the plug is installed the engine compression causes the built in starter to spin the engine slower, and it is not enough rpm to allow it to spark. We always start them with a hand held starter when they are cold, once warmed up and they will sometimes start with the onboard starter.

Yah I tried an outboard starter and it didn’t work, I’ll probably go the engine rebuild route, I have a machinist that does banchie engine, is there anything specific I should tell him or should I just say hone it, because I have no kart mechanics around my location.

 

[flattop1]

Piston size vs what the honed cylinder size would be my concern .
From what I have ascertained the pistons can vary from the stated size .
The use of torque plates is another .
Would I do it yes , ,,
These other folks know more whats absolutely nessesary .

 

[Pete_Muller]

If I'm not mistaken I found a piston kit on Cometkart.com for 1000 with a piston and ring, and i could get a cage bearing too, would that not work? And then could go get it honed for 30$ at a machine shop

Be very careful about just having any machine shop hone your cylinder!

The proper tool is a real, floor-model Sunnen hone, and the mandrel should be a "keyway" mandrel. Those mandrels are designed specifically for honing bores that have "interruptions" (e.g. keyways, ports, transfer cutouts the bottom end of the liner, etc.).

PM

 

[Dan Brown]

A kart specific engine builder would be best, but if your local machine shop has the correct equipment you could go that route. IAME pistons vary in size more than they should, the shop will have to hone the cylinder, measure it and tell you the size piston kit to order, then they will have to measure the actual piston size when it arrives and final hone/ fit the piston to the bore. I would have them install the piston too, the circlips that hold in the wrist pin are difficult to install and seat properly unless you have done it many times. You will need an IAME leopard/x30 piston kit( they use the same piston), a 14mm cage bearing and the wrist pin. The circlips and piston ring come in the piston kit. You will need a new base gasket, they come in different thicknesses so you can set your squish band clearance properly. Have the machine shop measure the squish before you disassemble the engine, a leopard is .028 minimum. Then have them measure your base gasket thickness so you get the correct one. Your engine is an 07 leopard, make sure you order the base gasket for the 07, the newer 09 leopard uses a different base gasket.

 

[Freezeman]

I would also have the crank assembly checked out while doing the upper end.

 

[MarcusIrwin]

@Dan Brown @Pete_Muller @flattop1
Though you guys might want to see this, looks like it got grenaded once in its life haha,

 

[MarcusIrwin]

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[MarcusIrwin]

The ring was also very hard to get off for some reason, got it off eventually, damaging nothing, as you can see in the picture it only wanted to stay mostly to the left side for whatever reason. I live in a gated community where I am allowed to drive my kart on my country roads, I will maybe race this kart someday but its really not ready to race other karts. I bought the engine because it was a tag engine with no external starter. This thing won't be under to much endurance pressure so, I don't think at least, I will have to worry about getting everything absolutely race ready tip top shape, I just want it to move under its own power pretty darn well and be fairly reliable. I'm obviously not going to be sloppy but thats why I don't fell that I absolutely need to ship this off to a kart mechanic to get honed. Would love to race it someday though, just need to get walking before I start to run.