1st time on a Flathead

We're going to try and run a flathead for our 1st time this weekend. The engine has been sitting for a few years. I plan to fire it on Friday night just to make sure it will run. The guy I got the engine from had all top running stuff so I feel relatively confident it will be fine. It will also my 1st experience with methanol. It looks like my clone clutch will swap straight over with engagement at 3900. Any tips on gearing (clone gear is 15/60) and target rpm? It's just under .2th mile momentum track. Should I change the oil after each time on the track (practice, heat, feature)? Any other tips or suggestions are welcome
 
Typically you are one tooth bigger on clone driver than with flathead.
ie, If you are on 15/60 with the clone, consider 14/60 with the flathead.
Big momentum tracks with little corner drop require less rpm to be turned.
If you are scrubbing 300 rpm or less, look at turning the engine less rpm as well. 6800 seems to be the target rpm for most flatheads on bigger tracks, but I've seen them turn as low as 6300-6500 and walk the dog on them too. Look more at your corner drops than peak.
Watch your lap times - your stop watch (Mychron) never lies. If it's faster on the watch, it's faster on the track.


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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Wow, a lot closer than I thought it would be. How did your flathead lap times compare to the clone lap times?
About 1/2 second slower than 375 clone times from the previous week. This week the track didn't have 375 clone racers. Most people choose to run FH or limited
 
Lots of karting oils do a poor job of preventing rust. Pour some oil down the spark plug hole and turn it over my hand. Look at the oil that pours out of the cyc. and check for rust.
 
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