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2010 excentrix ????s
- Thread starter Vegaman
- Start date
We had one of these chassis and if it isn't a high bite they aren't that good I have tried all the set-ups and most didn't work the only guy that got me close was racing promoter he will get it to work the best. Forget about the rest. If the chassis is a little off you will wish you never raced karts. I am being honest.
I agree with odmae even if someone can get u close that is as far as that chassis will get you with out going thru alot of tires. We run with an adult animal and an animal outlaw. You will always have a push on low bite and scrub tires on high bite. We are going to reclip the rear of ours and see if it works. No matter what u do to the front I believe the problem is in the rear. The up and over design works to get out of the corner but if u cant turn in you kill the corner speed. Steveberg7575@yahoo.com 612-991-6966 we will have the straight rails installed and pictures posted soon. If it works we will offer to fix other excentrics.
buckshot35
Member
get the tires right and the kart will be fine. I had a 2010 and ran low bite and the thing was fast once you get BITE in the tire and then get them to fire at the track. also don't be afraid to put some stagger in the thing.
scottiedout
Member
If I were going to modify anything on a 10-11 excentrik, it wouldn't be the rearend. It would be the RF location...
scottiedout
Member
The biggest issue is in the understanding of what this chassis is asking for, the same issue a couple top chassis manufacturers had at the same time frame. This leads to tuning issues in the wrong direction and quick frustration.
*** The RF does NOT receive transferred weight. The stiffness and location make a very stable frontend. It needs bite from static preload (nose and cross) and the tire itself. It will also gain turning power through involving the LR more as well. Why? Most of the weight that is tranferring is across the rear. The more the RR loads up, it starts overpowering the RF.
If you paid attention to any of the post by "racepromoter" Ken who has helped some 10-11 Excentriks on the low bite 11's-22's style tracks, one of the things he mentions is using reverse stagger split (no more than 1 1/4" front with typically 1 1/2" in the rear) which helps direct weight transfer more towards the RF and less to the RR.
Another great tip is to not jack the RF caster block to far down (lowering block, raising the RF ride height) which again if you raise the ride height too far on the RF, it will further decrease the ability of the RF to receive transferred weight.
I've seen debates on here before about the seat cradle vs. seat struts, but have never seen anybody talk about using both. If you want to experiment with something at the rearend of the chassis, please don't chop it. Instead, use the left half of the seat cradle for the leftside of the seat and use the standard RR seat strut for the rightside.
*** The RF does NOT receive transferred weight. The stiffness and location make a very stable frontend. It needs bite from static preload (nose and cross) and the tire itself. It will also gain turning power through involving the LR more as well. Why? Most of the weight that is tranferring is across the rear. The more the RR loads up, it starts overpowering the RF.
If you paid attention to any of the post by "racepromoter" Ken who has helped some 10-11 Excentriks on the low bite 11's-22's style tracks, one of the things he mentions is using reverse stagger split (no more than 1 1/4" front with typically 1 1/2" in the rear) which helps direct weight transfer more towards the RF and less to the RR.
Another great tip is to not jack the RF caster block to far down (lowering block, raising the RF ride height) which again if you raise the ride height too far on the RF, it will further decrease the ability of the RF to receive transferred weight.
I've seen debates on here before about the seat cradle vs. seat struts, but have never seen anybody talk about using both. If you want to experiment with something at the rearend of the chassis, please don't chop it. Instead, use the left half of the seat cradle for the leftside of the seat and use the standard RR seat strut for the rightside.
Good ideas Scottie. Im kind of liking the outside of the box thinking u have on the seat cradle? Worth a try I guess. And reverse what they call for on stagger may be an idea too. On a high bite track what are u thinking for cross? We were down to 58 in nebraska? Started at 68 (thats what we ran outdoors) and boy did we get caught with our pants down. If we had one more race we would have been at 56.