2012 Firehawk Setup

R

ReedRacing33

Member
Was wondering if anybody could help me out with a setup for a 2012 Falcon Firehawk. Running clone medium 350 on 1/5 mile low banked track
 
46 nose
58 left
I do believe the frame is more narrow than a standard kart so the seat isn't set as far away from the motor rail as usual. Last I remember I think for a large seat the RR strut should be set like 3" from the edge of the mount to the left side of the inside motor rail. Make sure it's the stock strut of course.

Middle of seat pointed at left edge of the steering upright
RF level with the RR which I think is in the middle of the washers
Use LF to get to 64 cross
.5 LF
-2.75 RF
Caster set in the middle lines
1.5" front 1.25" rear
LR 3/4" off bearing hanger
RR .25" off hanger
Set LR adjuster down 2 lines past center line
Of course cross will need to be rechecked
 
Last edited:
hotelcalifornia said:
46 nose
58 left
I do believe the frame is more narrow than a standard kart so the seat isn't set as far away from the motor rail as usual. Last I remember I think for a large seat the RR strut should be set like 3" from the edge of the mount to the left side of the inside motor rail. Make sure it's the stock strut of course.

Middle of seat pointed at left edge of the steering upright
RF level with the RR which I think is in the middle of the washers
Use LF to get to 64 cross
.5 LF
-2.75 RF
Caster set in the middle lines
1.5" front 1.25" rear
LR 3/4" off bearing hanger
RR .25" off hanger
Set LR adjuster down 2 lines past center line
Of course cross will need to be rechecked
Click to expand...
For the most part I'd agree real good info here, I think I remember the break rotar being on the left side, if that correct I wouldn't worry about any measurement to the seat strut, I would place based on the rear center seat spine being 1/4" left of the break rotar, the measurement I would worry about would be the top back of the seat being 9.25 " off the axle, I'd want 58.5 % left min even 59 %, cross 65% to 66 % and I wouldn't do it all on the left front, I'd move washers more equal on both fronts, I'd toe out the LF 1/16 ".
Good Luck !!
 
racing promotor said:
For the most part I'd agree real good info here, I think I remember the break rotar being on the left side, if that correct I wouldn't worry about any measurement to the seat strut, I would place based on the rear center seat spine being 1/4" left of the break rotar, the measurement I would worry about would be the top back of the seat being 9.25 " off the axle, I'd want 58.5 % left min even 59 %, cross 65% to 66 % and I wouldn't do it all on the left front, I'd move washers more equal on both fronts, I'd toe out the LF 1/16 ".
Good Luck !!
Click to expand...
But if your right front is not level with your right rear it can cause your frame to lean up or down which would have unwanted handling effects on it's own
 
hotelcalifornia said:
But if your right front is not level with your right rear it can cause your frame to lean up or down which would have unwanted handling effects on it's own
Click to expand...
The way I would look at it is even if it mattered much, and I don't see it, but let's say it did, the effect of running the LF that much more from being evenly spaced, would have even more unwanted handling effects.
Plus just because there level on the stand,
how many times do you think on track when the chassis starts transfer there actually level 🤔
 
racing promotor said:
The way I would look at it is even if it mattered much, and I don't see it, but let's say it did, the effect of running the LF that much more from being evenly spaced, would have even more unwanted handling effects.
Plus just because there level on the stand,
how many times do you think on track when the chassis starts transfer there actually level 🤔
Click to expand...
When you drive into the turn the kart prolly leans forward a bit cause of driving into the banking but whether it's gonna be level or not due to the surface we never know..that's why I try to make sure it's level and always use the left side to set the rake. I've had too many instances where my RF wasn't in the track enough because I was lowering cross by raising the RF instead of lowering the LF
 
hotelcalifornia said:
When you drive into the turn the kart prolly leans forward a bit cause of driving into the banking but whether it's gonna be level or not due to the surface we never know..that's why I try to make sure it's level and always use the left side to set the rake. I've had too many instances where my RF wasn't in the track enough because I was lowering cross by raising the RF instead of lowering the LF
Click to expand...
So what your saying is unless the RF is level with the RR no chassis set up, or adjustment will work properly 🤔
Your way over thinking it, your added attention to this is only taking focus away from other areas you should be more concerned about. Yes your probably correct in saying when you enter the turn the kart would pitch forward some, BUT how many times out of a thousand do you think that pitch position is actually close to being level on track , it would be slim to none.
Your now also saying anytime anyone takes cross out of a kart by raising the RF that RF will not be in the track enough .
 
Don't know if it matters for the folks discussing RF & RR level, but...

We ALWAYS wanted more bite in the LF on our Firehawks. We almost always ran +1* camber, decreased camber split (increasing the LF,) more nose %, and ran lower cross (by putting more weight on the LF) to get the car free(er) especially at entry & exit. It also required more rear stagger than our other karts (always.) Once it got to the center of the corner, it rotated fine, but it sure didn't like the factory numbers.
Even with our G2 and Visions, we tended to run lower cross and more nose, but we didn't have the need for all the other variances.
Firehawk was a fast kart when you got it just right or the track came to you.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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33 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
racing promotor said:
So what your saying is unless the RF is level with the RR no chassis set up, or adjustment will work properly 🤔
Your way over thinking it, your added attention to this is only taking focus away from other areas you should be more concerned about. Yes your probably correct in saying when you enter the turn the kart would pitch forward some, BUT how many times out of a thousand do you think that pitch position is actually close to being level on track , it would be slim to none.
Your now also saying anytime anyone takes cross out of a kart by raising the RF that RF will not be in the track enough .
Click to expand...
I mean yeah I could feel the difference. I'm just saying if I was gonna lower cross I'd rather do it by pushing the LF down more into the track
 
hotelcalifornia said:
I mean yeah I could feel the difference. I'm just saying if I was gonna lower cross I'd rather do it by pushing the LF down more into the track
Click to expand...
And for up to 2 maybe 3 washers max I'd say no problem, but I wouldn't go past that without moving the RF, I know guys that are pretty fast that regardless which chassis there on, they set washers even on both sides and could care less what the cross ends up, they write it down for reference and race.
 
racing promotor said:
And for up to 2 maybe 3 washers max I'd say no problem, but I wouldn't go past that without moving the RF, I know guys that are pretty fast that regardless which chassis there on, they set washers even on both sides and could care less what the cross ends up, they write it down for reference and race.
Click to expand...
Washers even on ever chassis is different, for Infiniti it was 60%
 
racing promotor said:
And for up to 2 maybe 3 washers max I'd say no problem, but I wouldn't go past that without moving the RF, I know guys that are pretty fast that regardless which chassis there on, they set washers even on both sides and could care less what the cross ends up, they write it down for reference and race.
Click to expand...
This is one big reason I like phantoms...it's a simple 2 on the bottom of the Right 2 on top of left and leave it
XXX#40 said:
Lol that's how the spring is loaded, yes you don't want or need the rf level with the rr
Click to expand...
Oh..ok..guess it's just something I do..cause when I had my RF set too high I would go in and it wouldn't turn in well at all
 
hotelcalifornia said:
This is one big reason I like phantoms...it's a simple 2 on the bottom of the Right 2 on top of left and leave it

Oh..ok..guess it's just something I do..cause when I had my RF set too high I would go in and it wouldn't turn in well at all
Click to expand...
That had more to do with the set up combination than just the fact RF an RR weren't level.
Think about it like this if it was that important there would be no washers so you could adjust, the manufacturer would just lock them in.
 
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