212 basic stock build questions??

mopdog

Member
I am messing with a 212 with my students. I cant buy anything for it so we going to make everything (air filter, exhaust ect.) and see how well we can make it run. We removed the gov and got it running pretty good all stock. Then we built an air filter setup and eliminated the air box and the power just fell off. What size should I drill the main out to? What size should I try after I do the exhaust? Anything else I can do to it to try and make power? I have the students mapping all the dyno runs to see what works and what doesnt. Thanks.
 
When you built the air filter adapter did you put the air bleed holes on the back of the adapter ? and use the original gasket ?
 
I am messing with a 212 with my students. I cant buy anything for it so we going to make everything (air filter, exhaust ect.) and see how well we can make it run. We removed the gov and got it running pretty good all stock. Then we built an air filter setup and eliminated the air box and the power just fell off. What size should I drill the main out to? What size should I try after I do the exhaust? Anything else I can do to it to try and make power? I have the students mapping all the dyno runs to see what works and what doesnt. Thanks.

Probably .036 to .038 jmo
 

mopdog

Member
We are building everything because they would never approve buying anything for it...and I am just trying to make the class interesting. They get a kick out of a motor screaming at 6000 on the dyno......I will look more into the air bleed and gasket on the intake. Its an old flathead exhaust pipe we cut down and put an air filter on it.
I am wondering about what to drill the main out to because I dont have any extras once I do it! LOL
 

desi199

Member
We are building everything because they would never approve buying anything for it...and I am just trying to make the class interesting. They get a kick out of a motor screaming at 6000 on the dyno......I will look more into the air bleed and gasket on the intake. Its an old flathead exhaust pipe we cut down and put an air filter on it.
I am wondering about what to drill the main out to because I dont have any extras once I do it! LOL

Where are you located?
 

subbietjw

Member
if you have a shop like a shop class... you can un-shroud the valves and make carb spacers... theres also some mild milling you can do mill the head, mill the block, and you can put added angles on the valves
 

mikey56

New member
john is right.....i wouldn't push it past about 4000 on the bench unless you have a way to add a load to it and unless you have a good flywheel. hae to see it all come apart on you!!!
 

mopdog

Member
No aftermarket flywheel on it....we are running it on a dyno and taking precautions incase it comes apart.
Here is what I have so far....I know all dynos are not the same, prototype is what we have
no mods at all
4.29 HP/7.59 TQ
gov removed
5.14 HP/6.97 TQ
with made air filter setup no gov
4.29 HP/ 6.21 TQ
made air filter, no gov, drilled main jet to .040
4.29 HP/ 6.38 TQ
made air filter, no gov, drilled main jet, made exhaust no muffler
5.89 HP/ 7.60 TQ
We are going to try a muffler tomorrow and check the valve lash to see what it does
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
as stated there are a couple air bleed holes in the filter adapter that need to be there. look at old filter /gasket/ carb . if not there you will have power issue. lash as near zero as possible.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
We put the stock gasket on the made air intake today before we ran it on the dyno

did you make reliefs for the air bleeds? one on each side.
 

mopdog

Member
I guess I dont understand. I dont know alot about clones. We used the stock gasket so I think the air bleeds are open?
 

Kart43

Member
Right at the entrance to the carburetor air horn on the left and right side, you will notice round openings, The right side feeds air to the E tube the left allows air to flow through the idle circuit. You must make certain these are not obstructed. If you have used the rubber covered metal plate between your adaptor and the carb body you can see how the manufacturer made provisions for these openings.
 

mopdog

Member
Muffler and valve lash really didnt do anything. Our next step is to make an advanced timing key which I had a student do today with a file. We will probally make a few and see if one is better then another.
Does anyone know if advancing the camshaft 1 tooth will accomplish anything? Either was I think we may try it. They really want to get in a do some head work but I am holding them back so we can see what mods we can do to stock and what works and what doesnt.
 
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