Box Stock

212 top rated rpm?

I'm sure no one wants to hear this, but that motor, and all the parts in it, were designed to run at 3500 RPM. And they do a very good job at that RPM, last forever, almost. Mostly partial throttle. Any use of that motor above those specs, it's anybody's guess.
 
it will go... til it goes... BOOM ... that is its MAX RPM's . HINT: i wudnt want to be too close to it when it goes BOOM.
 
Turning 6000 to 6200 lap after lap. Knocked the coil and mount off one. Set the gap at .035 now.
 
alvin l nunley said:
I'm sure no one wants to hear this, but that motor, and all the parts in it, were designed to run at 3500 RPM. And they do a very good job at that RPM, last forever, almost. Mostly partial throttle. Any use of that motor above those specs, it's anybody's guess.
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Only if you aren’t paying attention to your engine. We have engines in the field turning 6700 to 6900 week after week and no problems. Usually one crank per the life of the engine and one step up on piston each refresh. That is unless the air filter wasn’t taken care of properly
 
You have predators with stock parts turning 6900 and no problems with flywheels? I wouldn't want to be responsible for telling someone that was safe, just saying
 
I am in no way advocating a stock flywheel on anything that turns over the governored rpm. My response was to Alvin’s comment pertaining to breakage. I also must admit I forgot I was in the predator forum and not the clone. No I don’t have predators turning that rpm but if I did I stand with my comment because it would have a good wheel
 
if cld get the stock Phillips screw out of magnet, take off, sand/grind the magnet, mounting post and mounting surface so it is clean. wipe with alcohol and re 2 part epoxy it? i noticed on one that they do use epoxy to hold the magnet on the mounting then that is tween magnet and flywheel, but if the mating surfaces are not roughened up and clean clean clean will the epoxy hold... especially over time/heat/hot/cold.... stator did not work on 22 HP kholer... took off flywheel, ALL the 6 magnets/epoxy gave up and the magnets were magnetized to stator (none broken/cracked).

took flywheel off, cleaned it with dremel and 80 grit sanding drum (leaving edge of old epoxy around edges so know where to put N and S magnets (they are different) back more or less where they cam from. painted magnets different color, N and S alternating 6 magnets, so i wudnt get them mixed, taking them inside to desk to glue back on flywheel, up taking them off stater.

cleaned / sanded /cleaned them with alcohol wipes, 2 part epoxy back in place, clamp, wait 24 hours for epoxy to set. painted inside of flywheel, as it acts like a "hat" and collects condensation that makes rust/loses bond of magnets. 13.3v at a little above idle now... ~14 at WOT.

still... the PVL flywheel is not that expensive... neither is 1/4" steel /aluminum plate off E bay, i noticed... aluminum cheaper to ship? tween operator and flywheel. even have kevlar on e bay, but getting it to wrap around recoil starter housing??? not going to work too well. still... gorilla packing tape over the magnet to keep it ? from splitting in 2 thru screw hole? but it comes off, gets wadded uup under coil...??? amazing how much thought a person puts into something trying to be frugal . some guy said to me, "step on a dollar to pick up a dime"
 
The one I blew the coil off , the magnet was broken also. I don't know what the coil gap was as this was one of the first motors I built. I thought the block was flexing and let the coil hit the flywheel.If the magnet does come off is it normal for it to come when the coil is pulling on it? I have seen a pic on a forum of a broken flywheel it looked to me like it had broken when they were torqueing it. Over torqueing, because of the taper, would put extra stress on the flywheel.
 
I have been watching the magnets in the flywheel because it is a reproduction of the clone wheel, sorta. The following is a repeat of the clone so if you notice what I am about to tell you take note. In the beginning the magnet was held in the fly wheel by a Phillips head screw and glue all the way around the magnet. As time went on the Phillips head screw began to show up less and less because of machining to the balancing process. Then the amount of glue that was being added to hold the magnet in place started to show up less also. At this point in time I have not seen many screw heads cut off like the clone was but I am seeing less and less glue. So you may want to be aware of those two items on this fly wheel. The other thing that was causing problems was the bolts that held the coil to the block. I have had one of 12 engines in my possession where are the bolts were not tightened properly. Just a little informationl for ya
 
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