5HP Crank for Stroker

i missed that one.
Are you using a breather bypass system?
I hope you didn't remove the baffle from the valve cover?

Faster Motors product
1579287185267.png


Briggs Product
1579287236686.png
 
I have heat treated cranks in stock. Aftermarket B&S. We have sold about a 100 of these in the last couple years and only heard of two breakages. One was on a dyno. $129.00 Seay HiPerformance 864-316-4122
 
Freezeman said:
an internal head gasket leak from the cylinder to the oil galley can cause lots of crank case pressure.
Click to expand...
I pulled the head off abd looked over tge hesd gasket, does appear to have a "trail" of wear from the edge of the piston opening to the oil galley hole...its a stock head gasket, is there any other head gasket i could use that would seal up better? Thx! don
 
Don, if both mating surfaces (deck and head) are good and true, then the Cometic head gasket is fine. The Briggs graphite gaskets (fire ring included) will not last long in an open. They work fine for their intended purposes.
Mark @ FlatOut Gaskets also offers some terrific gaskets for our engines.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Depending how big the bore is this can be a problem with the stock head,
One of the things you can do to HELP prevent this is to weld that passage shut.
You can also weld the area on the opposite side of the head to add strength to that side.
I's suggest you have someone with experience welding these die cast heads because the are like a box of chocolates.
You never know how much impurities are in the metal and it's very easy to get a crummy result.
If it's a big valve head and the seats have already been installed i don't like to weld them for fear of distorting the valve seats. In that case i prefer to use a high temp epoxy to fill the channel. The product i use is good to 1400* F
If you use a billet head that is much stronger you can greatly reduce head gasket issues, not to mention making more power.

If you weld or epoxy the passage be sure to use a breather bypass system. Actually i'd recommend using one anyway.
 
Jimbo said:
Depending how big the bore is this can be a problem with the stock head,
One of the things you can do to HELP prevent this is to weld that passage shut.
You can also weld the area on the opposite side of the head to add strength to that side.
I's suggest you have someone with experience welding these die cast heads because the are like a box of chocolates.
You never know how much impurities are in the metal and it's very easy to get a crummy result.
If it's a big valve head and the seats have already been installed i don't like to weld them for fear of distorting the valve seats. In that case i prefer to use a high temp epoxy to fill the channel. The product i use is good to 1400* F
If you use a billet head that is much stronger you can greatly reduce head gasket issues, not to mention making more power.

If you weld or epoxy the passage be sure to use a breather bypass system. Actually i'd recommend using one anyway.
Click to expand...
bore is like 2.71 or so I think...not enough $$$$ in the racing budget right now for billet crank/head...maybe somewhere down the road... :) btw, its got a breather from the side of the valve cover to the front top of sidecover with a pcv valve on it, and 2 two additional breather lines from center top of side cover to the top of valve cover, and the valve cover has a baffle in it underneath the two openings on the top for the breather lines...i'd attach pics but I always get an error message saying file is too big to upload...
 
Jimbo said:
Depending how big the bore is this can be a problem with the stock head,
One of the things you can do to HELP prevent this is to weld that passage shut.
You can also weld the area on the opposite side of the head to add strength to that side.
I's suggest you have someone with experience welding these die cast heads because the are like a box of chocolates.
You never know how much impurities are in the metal and it's very easy to get a crummy result.
If it's a big valve head and the seats have already been installed i don't like to weld them for fear of distorting the valve seats. In that case i prefer to use a high temp epoxy to fill the channel. The product i use is good to 1400* F
If you use a billet head that is much stronger you can greatly reduce head gasket issues, not to mention making more power.

If you weld or epoxy the passage be sure to use a breather bypass system. Actually i'd recommend using one anyway.
Click to expand...
what epoxy do you use?
 
There are only a couple choices with a stock block .
Extended deck you can use a longer rod .
Piston pin height is dictated by rod length and deck .
Arc and wiseco or jr race car have top notch stuff .
 
For something that is close to stock bore i use the Wiseco 2.6905" piston, the 2.6935" or the 2.6985" pistons.
I prefer the 2.6985" piston since the rings are made for all 3 of these are for that piston.
If you use the 2.6905" or the 2.6935" pistons you have a lot you need to file from the ends to get the correct ring end gap in the bore.
As a result the ring tension is quite high with the smaller pistons.
There are much larger pistons available if you want them.
All of these pistons use a .490" wrist pin.
I usually use the 6240 ARC rod with this combination but be aware that you need to machine about .100" off the top of the piston to get the proper pop up.
For the Billet blocks, the Animal or model 15 blocks with a deck extension and a stroker crank i use a 4.5" rod.
For these applications i recommend machining both the block and the top of the piston.
For the small displacement strokers i used to use a new Briggs FH crank but since there are no new ones available anymore i prefer the ARC 6580 crank. It has proven to me that it is the most durable one available. Putting a used Briggs FH crank in a motor that can make as much 4 times the HP of a FH is asking for trouble.
I have all of these parts in stock for one stop shopping.
I have blocks, deck extensions, rods, pistons, rings, and cranks in stock. If you buy any combination of parts i give you a break on the price of the crank at $384.95.
If you need any of the machine work i can do that also.
Call me to place an order. Tel 920-207-9180
 
Last edited:
It’s a mild build. It’s a brand new 206 block that came with a crack in it. I finally got around to having it TIGed (wasn’t all the way through but...) I figured I’d do a fun budget build with it. I have a brand new flathead crank that I got in a buyout several years ago that’s been sitting on the shelf. I didn’t have the heart to get rid of it...kinda happy I didn’t. I figured I’d start off with a WF limiter and stock 206 head. I’ll probably at least do one dyno pull with the stock cam but upgrade to a 308 cam later.
I have access to a full machine shop so cutting the piston down won’t be a problem. Heck, I can probably re cut the key way to match the timing in the animal crank.
Do you also have the cam gear for the crank as well?


I’ll give you a call on payday
 
Yes i have the cam gears, conversion bearing and conversion seals.
I have the std cam gears and also a stronger one for the heads with stronger valve springs.
 
A stock hardened Briggs FH crank will break at 10,200 RPM, also a ARC 6580 crank will break at 10,400 RPM ... please don’t ask me how I know this !!!! $$$$$$$$
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top