A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

Pops90

Member
So when looking at the descriptions of when to use certain tire preps, how much should I pay attention to what the intended track surface for that prep is?

For example, lets say I have a set of tires punching 60, and I would like to get them down to ~45 and also add bite, and I'm using Track Tac products. I could wipe several different products, such as BTGP, SAA Grape, GK1 Blue or Black Sand. Lets say the track is relatively dry, but not a dustbowl. (Think of a dirt indoor track)

BTGP and SAA Grape will soften, but the descriptions say that they are for tracks with quite a bit of moisture. GK1 will soften, but maybe not soften enough. (I was only able to get ~7 points of softening last time) but the prep is intended for the track condition I will experience, although I will need more bite. Black Sand won't hardly soften at all. Also, I don't have a tire roller.

Would I be better off wiping Grape, even though the description is for tracks with moisture, or would I be better using the GK1 or Black Sand and dealing with a bit harder of a tire with the correct prep on them? I've heard of people using BTGP on indoor tracks, and that just doesn't seem right to me once the track dries out.
 

XXX#40

TRUMP 2020
Soften tire to duro range, then prep for bite, indoor tracks are built quickly that's why the base is soft, but still dry
 
So when looking at the descriptions of when to use certain tire preps, how much should I pay attention to what the intended track surface for that prep is?

For example, lets say I have a set of tires punching 60, and I would like to get them down to ~45 and also add bite, and I'm using Track Tac products. I could wipe several different products, such as BTGP, SAA Grape, GK1 Blue or Black Sand. Lets say the track is relatively dry, but not a dustbowl. (Think of a dirt indoor track)

BTGP and SAA Grape will soften, but the descriptions say that they are for tracks with quite a bit of moisture. GK1 will soften, but maybe not soften enough. (I was only able to get ~7 points of softening last time) but the prep is intended for the track condition I will experience, although I will need more bite. Black Sand won't hardly soften at all. Also, I don't have a tire roller.

Would I be better off wiping Grape, even though the description is for tracks with moisture, or would I be better using the GK1 or Black Sand and dealing with a bit harder of a tire with the correct prep on them? I've heard of people using BTGP on indoor tracks, and that just doesn't seem right to me once the track dries out.
I'm assuming the 45 duro you mention is because someone gave you that info where you need to be.

Your biggest problem was you need to do more internal to get to 45.
 

Pops90

Member
Soften tire to duro range, then prep for bite, indoor tracks are built quickly that's why the base is soft, but still dry
So even though BTGP/Grape are for tracks with quite a bit of moisture, I should be in the ballpark using the more aggressive preps to soften, and then adding bite with something like Black Sand if necessary? Thanks for the response.
 

Pops90

Member
I'm assuming the 45 duro you mention is because someone gave you that info where you need to be.

Your biggest problem was you need to do more internal to get to 45.
I know, I just don't have a tire roller right now. Honestly 45 is a guess, the last track I raced on didn't really have any grip until the very end of the night. Lots of sand until the racing line got cleared off. I just know that it was one of the slickest tracks I've ever raced on, even once the racing groove was partially cleared off earlier on.
 

Pops90

Member
What brand tire ? If Burris which compound
I ran the feature on Maxxis Pink & Blues. Prepped with GK1 & SQS + Track Tac Orange 50/50 as a PRW. I think they were punching around 53, but I'd have to look at my notes to be sure. Pretty sure I needed more bite, but I didn't expect such a low grip track.
 

Pops90

Member
Any internal ever ?
The guy I bought them from had rolled them internally with something in the Palmetto prep line. They were punching around 50 when I bought them. The tires had been raced twice before and still had an edge on them, but they need to be flipped now.
 
Your questions above I'd post in the track tac forum and ask Chris, BUT most times if you get to the duro your looking for with the wrong chemical it will not work, even If your 45 was correct 100% getting there could be many options, plus is it with a fresh tire or a cured tire, cut tire or just raced thinner tire, could be re-rolled or just more original roll. Get them flipped for sure and before I'd just keep wiping chemical not knowing I'd re-roll them with at least 100cc as better chance that works VS to much of wrong chemical.
 

Pops90

Member
Your questions above I'd post in the track tac forum and ask Chris, BUT most times if you get to the duro your looking for with the wrong chemical it will not work, even If your 45 was correct 100% getting there could be many options, plus is it with a fresh tire or a cured tire, cut tire or just raced thinner tire, could be re-rolled or just more original roll. Get them flipped for sure and before I'd just keep wiping chemical not knowing I'd re-roll them with at least 100cc as better chance that works VS to much of wrong chemical.
Ok thanks.
 
This isn't just for Pops it's a reminder to all, here is a case of details, details, details, even If someone that's fast gives you tire info just the duro is not enough info it's more important how there getting there.
 

XXX#40

TRUMP 2020
I ran the feature on Maxxis Pink & Blues. Prepped with GK1 & SQS + Track Tac Orange 50/50 as a PRW. I think they were punching around 53, but I'd have to look at my notes to be sure. Pretty sure I needed more bite, but I didn't expect such a low grip track.
Those conditions you should of been on black sand coats during the week, allow about 24 hours between coats 3 or 4 coats, and probably black sand orange, cut in 1/3s with what they recommend to cut it with
 

Pops90

Member
Those conditions you should of been on black sand coats during the week, allow about 24 hours between coats 3 or 4 coats, and probably black sand orange, cut in 1/3s with what they recommend to cut it with
Ok thanks for the advice.
 

msquared

Member
Here is a confusing thing, cross, raising or lowering it tightens the kart. I've seen this many times. So here goes:
Setup 1:
Nose 45
Leftside (LS) 55
Cross 60
Lowering cross will tighten the kart because it moves cross closer to equaling the leftside(LS). Increasing cross frees up the kart because it moves cross away from leftside (LS).

Setup 2:
Nose 45
Leftside (LS) 55
Cross 52
In this case raising cross will tighten the kart because it moves cross closer to the leftside (LS) and lowering it moves cross away from leftside (LS).

So, with some of the setups of today, just know where your leftside is relative to your cross. Another note, cross is for fine tuning only

Some will refer to tight as pushing, in fact they are two different things. A push is the kart will not turn, you turn the steering and the kart still wants to go straight. Tight is when the kart handles well but is slow.

Not to be picky but "motor" refers to electric powered and engine refers to gas or fuel powered.

Msquared
"Understanding Chassis Theory and Dynamics
 

msquared

Member
Here is my point:

1575335411879.png

People refer to things differently. Such as lowering cross tightens the kart but on the other hand raising it does the same thing.

I wondered how long it would take on the "motor oil". My point is you never see XYZ Racing Motors, but you do see motor oil. Interesting.
 

msquared

Member
Lets talk about loose verses a 4-wheel drift, two totally different things. But some will refer to them as the same. Loose is when the azz end hangs out and 4-wheel drift is when the whole kart "skates out". Two different problems and two very different fixes.

Msquared
 
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