Thanks and God bless,
Up here in Canada and in northern New York I’ve never seen a track that’s the exact same layout. We’ve got everything from paper clip tracks to bull rings. From anything I’ve been told or learned, stagger definitely varies track to track in what works best
Thanks for the reply. Makes a lot of sense but I was always curious. I’m going to stick to sets of 3 then with a couple variations for the left front to match them up where neededI prefer to have the tires (duro and prep) the same on all 4 tires. That way I can better monitor what the kart is doing by reading my tires (temperature, graining/wear, etc.) The exception might be on some chassis where a slightly harder left rear tire is desirable (again, I think that's a band-aid fix,) but some older karts do need the left rear freed up for them to work best.
For the most part, the left front is just along for the ride -- sure, it helps plant the right rear at corner entry, but other than that, it will experience very little wear or heat during it's life cycle. That's why you see guys sharing that corner from set to set -- it saves money.
I prefer to keep my tire sets as honest "sets" of 4. But for cost reasons, not everyone can do that, and it's certainly not necessary. If you are swapping sets and sharing LFs, try to match up the duro and bite as best as you can. If you have to, err to a softer LF rather than harder. Hope that helps.
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Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
That's what I do softer, medium, harder LF's total of 6 to go along with like 16 sets of 3 Burris 33's, Don't forget if the LF varies to much on the hard side you can just wipe it more according to help compensate some. Or even if you don't need any prep on the other 3 wipe the LF in that case.
Of course you always want staggers set according to each track, the point you refuse to acknowledge is at 1/8th mile or smaller, yes they vary but there is not enough total distance to vary a lot, your not going to find 2 different 1/8th mile oval dirt tracks where the 1 has straight's twice as long as the other, as NO one builds a dirt oval track with 2 straight drag strips all but touching with real hard paper clip sharp turn, Earl has pointed out to you numerous time If you look down from above on smaller dirt oval tracks there just that oval, with no actual straight's, that's why the reference staggers by track size in this thread that show with in a quarter inch stay accurate. which is as accurate or more accurate than using any spread sheet where guy's are guessing on the measurements.
First what chassis do you have make and model & year is the break rotor on the left side ?
'05 Rage Dagger and yes
Do you know how much weight if any you'll need to put on to make Min weight ? which class and weight do you plan on racing ?
No weight added - 360# I should be just a tad over so lucky me haha
So track is smaller with tight turns, 1/8 th mile or smaller ? should be to need 1 5/8 " rear stagger, you'll have to confirm there are still the same, actually not lucky you as far as weight it's better to have to add some easier to get your numbers, as far as seat location with wheels and tires off I'd set it on a level table set the seat bottom on a piece of cardboard 1/8" thick, put front seat notch 1/4" from steering post ( make sure that puts seat far enough front so rear top is not back past the rear axle ) and center 1/4" left of post, rear of seat with seat spline ( center ) 3/4 " left of break rotor and top rear of seat back 9 " off top of the axle, Set rear hub spacing by putting tires on the kart RR should be 3/16 " from inside edge of wheel to cassette hanger, and LR 3/4' to 7/8" from inside edge of wheel to cassette hanger, cambers are going to be tough to confirm without a gauge but while on flat surface RF outside edge should be pitched up some lean in towards the frame, the LF the inside edge of the tire should be pitched up top of tire leaning out away from the frame, the RF should appear to have more pitch than the LF.
