A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

CarlsonMotorsports

Premium User
With shoe clutches on soft cranks, I prefer to lock them down tight.
Now, is the clutch hub moving, or simply the basket?
The basket MUST have endplay, whereas with the clutch hub, endplay is not necessary.
 

CarlsonMotorsports

Premium User
Word of caution, if you plan to run no endplay on the hub-crankshaft, make certain that you use a radius washer (or thrust washer) against the radius of the crank BEFORE installing the shoe clutch. Otherwise you can damage the end of your clutch (running inboard.)
 

jaymancds

Premium User
With shoe clutches on soft cranks, I prefer to lock them down tight.
Now, is the clutch hub moving, or simply the basket?
The basket MUST have endplay, whereas with the clutch hub, endplay is not necessary.
Its the hub that is moving, just kind of back and forth about a 1/16th of an inch. So you are saying that its not your preference for it to move a bit, but it wont hurt anything?
 

CarlsonMotorsports

Premium User
Its the hub that is moving, just kind of back and forth about a 1/16th of an inch. So you are saying that its not your preference for it to move a bit, but it wont hurt anything?
I know on the ohv engines with better torque and soft cast, or even forged, cranks, it'll wear the keyway (animal and LO206 for sure.) I have little experience with clones and predators, but I suspect it's much the same.
You can run some endplay on the hub if you like, I prefer not to, specifically with the drum clutches. Even with the disc clutches, very little is needed (.010" - .030") 1/16" with your drum clutch is a good bit excessive I think.
 
I know on the ohv engines with better torque and soft cast, or even forged, cranks, it'll wear the keyway (animal and LO206 for sure.) I have little experience with clones and predators, but I suspect it's much the same.
You can run some endplay on the hub if you like, I prefer not to, specifically with the drum clutches. Even with the disc clutches, very little is needed (.010" - .030") 1/16" with your drum clutch is a good bit excessive I think.
If you do shim it Tight read Brian's post # 382 and use the proper washer.
 

CarlsonMotorsports

Premium User
If you do shim it Tight read Brian's post # 382 and use the proper washer.
Absolutely. I've seen way too many ruined clutches because the snap ring groove was broken, or the driver bearing's inner race as been damaged.
We've got clutch/crank radius washers in stock, or simply use a good hardened thrust washer (3/4" on the crank before installing the clutch.)
 

jaymancds

Premium User
Absolutely. I've seen way too many ruined clutches because the snap ring groove was broken, or the driver bearing's inner race as been damaged.
We've got clutch/crank radius washers in stock, or simply use a good hardened thrust washer (3/4" on the crank before installing the clutch.)
I'm not familiar with the term thrust washer. Is this any different from just a flat washer of the same size? Is there a curvature to the thrust washer?
 

CarlsonMotorsports

Premium User
I'm not familiar with the term thrust washer. Is this any different from just a flat washer of the same size? Is there a curvature to the thrust washer?
Hardened steel and generally thinner and smaller od than a standard washer from the hardware store.
Some folks just use an 1/8" 3/4" spindle spacer. The problem is that most of those are aluminum, and they can get stuck on the crank easily, or wear prematurely. Steel will live longer, and hardened steel will last indefinitely.
 

jaymancds

Premium User
Hardened steel and generally thinner and smaller od than a standard washer from the hardware store.
Some folks just use an 1/8" 3/4" spindle spacer. The problem is that most of those are aluminum, and they can get stuck on the crank easily, or wear prematurely. Steel will live longer, and hardened steel will last indefinitely.
Ok, I'll try to track one down. Thanks for the help Brian!
 

CarlsonMotorsports

Premium User
Ok, I'll try to track one down. Thanks for the help Brian!
You are quite welcome.
If you can't find one locally, we'd be glad to mail/ship you a radius washer. There are several sources online, or you can make your own.
keep us in mind for anything else that you might need. Despite this coronavirus, we are still open and still shipping. :)
Just give us a call at the shop.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 

jaymancds

Premium User
You are quite welcome.
If you can't find one locally, we'd be glad to mail/ship you a radius washer. There are several sources online, or you can make your own.
keep us in mind for anything else that you might need. Despite this coronavirus, we are still open and still shipping. :)
Just give us a call at the shop.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
Will do
 

Mac_49

Premium User
Teaching moment: Axle Leading
I understand the premise of it but am uncertain as to how to attain it. How do you go about axle leading and how do you adjust motor and chain alignment with it?
I have a feeling my chassis is to old and doesn't have the option for this but still curious about it.
 
Last edited:
Teaching moment: Axle Leading
I understand the premise of it but am uncertain as to how to attain it. How do you go about axle leading and how do you adjust motor and chain alignment with it?
I have a feeling my chassis is to old and doesn't have the option for this but still curious it.
As for the rear axle you take the 2 bolts out of the RR cassette hanger lift up the axle there is a pill in the RR rear cassette you would turn it so it allows the right side to lengthen to add lead, motor and chain alignment should stay ok, your correct the older chassis do not have it.
 
Teaching moment: Axle Leading
I understand the premise of it but am uncertain as to how to attain it. How do you go about axle leading and how do you adjust motor and chain alignment with it?
I have a feeling my chassis is to old and doesn't have the option for this but still curious about it.
What chassis do you have ? Why are you asking, because of a handling issue and someone advised you to do so, Or just trying to learn how to do so ?
 

Mac_49

Premium User
What chassis do you have ? '05 Rage Dagger
Why are you asking, because of a handling issue and someone advised you to do so, Or just trying to learn how to do so ? I'm constantly reading literature (currently on Understanding Chassis Theory and Dynamics) and am trying to get a better idea of something if I don't quite get it right away.
With no real "at track help" I'm stuck taking this year trying to learn chassis tuning with trial and error at the actual races. :)
Which means experimenting with everything that I can lol
 

CarlsonMotorsports

Premium User
With no real "at track help" I'm stuck taking this year trying to learn chassis tuning with trial and error at the actual races. :)
Which means experimenting with everything that I can lol

I don't know for sure if the Rage Dagger uses the same cassettes as the Rage champ karts of that era, but if they do, Rage offers asymmetrical cassettes that are used on their champs that allow axle lead and lag. We've got them on all of our Rage champs.

Running a floating hub sure helps on sprocket wear should you decide to move the axle out of square to the motor plate. I prefer the older 6 bolt PRC ball bearing hubs - that's on all of our stuff.
 

Clayton97

New member
The class I run in allows whatever tires you want to run being prepped slick tires or treaded Hoosier type tires. Is there a better one to choose? Will one be better to start with than the other?
 
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