A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

racing promotor

Moderator
Something very Important when seeking advise on handling issues, make sure you give all details on the issue and where it is happening, but also describe your definition when you say push, tight, loose, because lot's of times your not on the same page with the person your seeking advice
from, and they don't ask they give you advise based on there definition. Example Tight to a lot of people means a push, tight and push to me are different, ( but I would always ask ).
 
Something very Important when seeking advise on handling issues, make sure you give all details on the issue and where it is happening, but also describe your definition when you say push, tight, loose, because lot's of times your not on the same page with the person your seeking advice
from, and they don't ask they give you advise based on there definition. Example Tight to a lot of people means a push, tight and push to me are different, ( but I would always ask ).
If tight and push are different to you please lay it out for readers that are going to come behind, explain the differences
 

racing promotor

Moderator
If tight and push are different to you please lay it out for readers that are going to come behind, explain the differences
Tight is the whole kart or just right side tight in the turns ( motor may even bog ), or just into the track to much lacking roll speed, Push is kart will not react does not turn. Loose is just the rear of the Kart breaks out, Free is Fast on the edge with good roll speed and a sporty look.
 

racing promotor

Moderator
Since I'm seeing rear wheel spacing questions we'll add a little info here, First set rear hub spacing's before you scale kart out, I found it a lot easier to measure spacing's from inside edge of wheels to the frame VS overall rear track width, Unless your running an older frame or trying to use a straight rail frame for dirt oval, setting the LR between 1/2" to 1" inside edge of wheel to frame, and RR 1/8" to 1/2 " inside edge of wheel to frame would be OK base line starting points in most cases, once raced it's OK to tweak them slightly 1/8 " or so, after that it's just a band-aid effect may fix the handling issue BUT usually no speed to be found look elsewhere to make changes, Remember there are VERY few ALWAYS in general cases in Karting so you may come across someone where LR is closer or RR is further away that works best and makes most speed for them, BUT also in most cases remember it probably won't work the same for you.
 

Bdub1991

Member
This is my second year in karting I have a stealth oval track chassis and would love to know some info on it if anyone has any because I cannot find ANYTHING about it
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Some reason I want too say Gecker or Clements chassis .
 

Damelot85

Member
I’m running clone 375 on a seraph chassis with yellow Vega’s. With help and setup info I’ve found here I’m getting much better and have gotten from being lapped a few times starting to run mid pack, almost cracked the podium positions. All the fast guys at my track are on Vega’s so that’s what I’ve been running, and I think I’m starting to get the tire prep under control with help from Earl at SoCo.

The track has changed its configuration since I start, they added some slight banking and started using calcium, it’s definitely gotten faster and more consistent. I run my Vega’s around 50-55 duro and usually end up around 6psi all around.
First question, should I keep trying to up the tire psi to see if it’s faster, and what is the “limit” on Vega tire psi.
Second, should I just switch to Maxxis and start my tire learning again and maybe come out ahead.
 

racing promotor

Moderator
I’m running clone 375 on a seraph chassis with yellow Vega’s. With help and setup info I’ve found here I’m getting much better and have gotten from being lapped a few times starting to run mid pack, almost cracked the podium positions. All the fast guys at my track are on Vega’s so that’s what I’ve been running, and I think I’m starting to get the tire prep under control with help from Earl at SoCo.

The track has changed its configuration since I start, they added some slight banking and started using calcium, it’s definitely gotten faster and more consistent. I run my Vega’s around 50-55 duro and usually end up around 6psi all around.
First question, should I keep trying to up the tire psi to see if it’s faster, and what is the “limit” on Vega tire psi.
Second, should I just switch to Maxxis and start my tire learning again and maybe come out ahead.
First I'll start off with your in very good hands with Earl he's as good as it gets, I'd run these questions past him as well or he should see this and respond, Max pressure on any tire is as much as you can get away with without sliding, If track has gotten better you should be able to use more air, pump it up 1/2 lb at a time until you slide, If track has gotten good enough making enough grip Maxxis will be faster, I'd talk to Earl and try what he recommends.

Good Luck !!
 
If you're on Earl's tire program - by all means consult with him.
Personally, I'd be on Maxxis (or Hoosier FK) if you're above 50 duro on a Yellow with the track changes you described, (calcium, etc.)
I think you'll be further ahead if you start understanding Maxxis sooner than later.



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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
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