Good info contained in those pages
It’s a very good guide
A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support
- Thread starter racing promotor
- Start date
It’s a very good guide
racing promotor
Moderator
Something very Important when seeking advise on handling issues, make sure you give all details on the issue and where it is happening, but also describe your definition when you say push, tight, loose, because lot's of times your not on the same page with the person your seeking advice
from, and they don't ask they give you advise based on there definition. Example Tight to a lot of people means a push, tight and push to me are different, ( but I would always ask ).
from, and they don't ask they give you advise based on there definition. Example Tight to a lot of people means a push, tight and push to me are different, ( but I would always ask ).
racinnut15xm
Member
If tight and push are different to you please lay it out for readers that are going to come behind, explain the differences
racing promotor
Moderator
Tight is the whole kart or just right side tight in the turns ( motor may even bog ), or just into the track to much lacking roll speed, Push is kart will not react does not turn. Loose is just the rear of the Kart breaks out, Free is Fast on the edge with good roll speed and a sporty look.
racing promotor
Moderator
Since I'm seeing rear wheel spacing questions we'll add a little info here, First set rear hub spacing's before you scale kart out, I found it a lot easier to measure spacing's from inside edge of wheels to the frame VS overall rear track width, Unless your running an older frame or trying to use a straight rail frame for dirt oval, setting the LR between 1/2" to 1" inside edge of wheel to frame, and RR 1/8" to 1/2 " inside edge of wheel to frame would be OK base line starting points in most cases, once raced it's OK to tweak them slightly 1/8 " or so, after that it's just a band-aid effect may fix the handling issue BUT usually no speed to be found look elsewhere to make changes, Remember there are VERY few ALWAYS in general cases in Karting so you may come across someone where LR is closer or RR is further away that works best and makes most speed for them, BUT also in most cases remember it probably won't work the same for you.
racing promotor
Moderator
I'm seeing more and more new members WELCOME and feel free to ask any questions on this thread, remember there are no dumb questions !!
Okay thanks! I’ll try look them up.
I’m running clone 375 on a seraph chassis with yellow Vega’s. With help and setup info I’ve found here I’m getting much better and have gotten from being lapped a few times starting to run mid pack, almost cracked the podium positions. All the fast guys at my track are on Vega’s so that’s what I’ve been running, and I think I’m starting to get the tire prep under control with help from Earl at SoCo.
The track has changed its configuration since I start, they added some slight banking and started using calcium, it’s definitely gotten faster and more consistent. I run my Vega’s around 50-55 duro and usually end up around 6psi all around.
First question, should I keep trying to up the tire psi to see if it’s faster, and what is the “limit” on Vega tire psi.
Second, should I just switch to Maxxis and start my tire learning again and maybe come out ahead.
The track has changed its configuration since I start, they added some slight banking and started using calcium, it’s definitely gotten faster and more consistent. I run my Vega’s around 50-55 duro and usually end up around 6psi all around.
First question, should I keep trying to up the tire psi to see if it’s faster, and what is the “limit” on Vega tire psi.
Second, should I just switch to Maxxis and start my tire learning again and maybe come out ahead.
racing promotor
Moderator
First I'll start off with your in very good hands with Earl he's as good as it gets, I'd run these questions past him as well or he should see this and respond, Max pressure on any tire is as much as you can get away with without sliding, If track has gotten better you should be able to use more air, pump it up 1/2 lb at a time until you slide, If track has gotten good enough making enough grip Maxxis will be faster, I'd talk to Earl and try what he recommends.
Good Luck !!
CarlsonMotorsports
Member
If you're on Earl's tire program - by all means consult with him.
Personally, I'd be on Maxxis (or Hoosier FK) if you're above 50 duro on a Yellow with the track changes you described, (calcium, etc.)
I think you'll be further ahead if you start understanding Maxxis sooner than later.
-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
Personally, I'd be on Maxxis (or Hoosier FK) if you're above 50 duro on a Yellow with the track changes you described, (calcium, etc.)
I think you'll be further ahead if you start understanding Maxxis sooner than later.
-----
Thanks and God bless,Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
1993cummins
Member
Im in need of some close ballpark numbers on Gearing,,, Stagger,,, and Tire Pressure for Burris 55s at Selinsgrove Speedway Sr. Animal Champ Heavy 425 class..
racing promotor
Moderator
Sorry I missed this but in case you haven't went yet, you'll need cut 55's with 60 cc Internal wiped some outside as well with a cut medium prep 50/50, 1 " rear stagger, start around 6 & 5 air and go up as the track gets faster, 15/63 gearing some when track gets real good go to 16/66.
Good Luck !!
My local track is getting paved this month. And the next closest track is also asphalt. I’ve been running clone 375 on a Seraph, and slowly getting better at working tires and working my way towards the front. Is the switch to asphalt going to kill my progress on the Seraph, and what changes, if any, do I NEED to make without knowing what the new track size and shape is going to be?
current setup
F-47% L-58 C-60 LF-3/8 deg RF 2 3/4 deg
1/8 toe out RF
Caster 7/10
Usually on a 12/60-62gear by features
thanks
current setup
F-47% L-58 C-60 LF-3/8 deg RF 2 3/4 deg
1/8 toe out RF
Caster 7/10
Usually on a 12/60-62gear by features
thanks
racing promotor
Moderator
Hopefully KJ26 and or J.P will see this they'll know better on set up changes, expect your gearing to be different.
Kj26
Member
I’d be switching to a thin wall axle, you’ll also be running a LF tire/wheel on the LR.
Camber looks good, maybe bump LF to 1/2.
Nose decent, Left might need to bump it up, cross drop 56-57.
Caster I’d start 4/6
Gear is definitely going to change, most likely a 13, possibly 14 driver.
Internally prepped Vegas, unless your on a tire rule.
Would stagger stay roughly the same? obviously it’s hard to say without having a track to see but 1 1/2 front 1 1/4 rear is usually where I was. and can I apply pretty much the same chassis changes to my sons red plate karts?
Kj26
Member
1-1/4" seems like a good starting point.
Red plate the left you'll want around 54-55 and cross 51-53.