A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

I'm the builder, wanted one to hit 9 grand if needed, no weight class rwub motor, dirt oval and it's a new track in harleyville sc, dirt oval red clay almost like asphalt. Maybe 800' straights.
 
Give yall an idea of our track
 

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A question came up in a bench racing session tonight. If someone says "reduce camber on the rf", which way do you want to move the wheel? Say for example the camber is -2.5 and someone says "reduce camber", do you go to -2.75 or to -2.25?
 
A question came up in a bench racing session tonight. If someone says "reduce camber on the rf", which way do you want to move the wheel? Say for example the camber is -2.5 and someone says "reduce camber", do you go to -2.75 or to -2.25?
RF is always NEG camber so to reduce it by .25 you would go to 2.25 LESS NEGATIVE
 
A question came up in a bench racing session tonight. If someone says "reduce camber on the rf", which way do you want to move the wheel? Say for example the camber is -2.5 and someone says "reduce camber", do you go to -2.75 or to -2.25?
Which would be tip it in. .
Reduce is less.
 
On qualifying should I go up on air pressure a little all the way around or what u think?
You can't go up just because it's qualifying, but based on if you feel you were on perfect air for practice YES you would go up in all 4, max air is based on track condition when you go out, ideally you want max amount without sliding, the reason you hear always run little more to qualify is only 2 or 3 laps tires will not build as much as they do in the race, always stay a tooth more on rear to qualify also.
 
On qualifying should I go up on air pressure a little all the way around or what u think?
also on top of this I would try out different air pressures dropping by a half of a pound each time you go out and time your first 3 lap times then do it again until you find a place where you can control the kart pretty good, and still have some roll speed.
 
Blue /green plate specs what cam,what’s the ends and out of a jr 3 motor and rpm range
Blue (Jr3) and Green plate are two totally different engines! Blue plate is the largest restrictor before going adult/unrestricted. RPM, gearing and jetting are very similar between adult and blue plate. Red/Green plates are very small, low RPM, jetting and gear are drastically different. We turn our Jr3 motors 6600-6800, sometimes more depending on the track. Red and green place will not turn much over 6000.
 
Blue (Jr3) and Green plate are two totally different engines! Blue plate is the largest restrictor before going adult/unrestricted. RPM, gearing and jetting are very similar between adult and blue plate. Red/Green plates are very small, low RPM, jetting and gear are drastically different. We turn our Jr3 motors 6600-6800, sometimes more depending on the track. Red and green place will not turn much over 6000.
Yes it sucks our Saturday races are purple plate and our bigger races are blue plate
 
I have a 1997 Trick Typhoon 1 1/4" tube frame, yes it`s old but so am I (71), and this will probably be my last year racing. I`m running a KT 100 w/jackshaft on Vegas. I want to have fun, but I also want to be competitive. Before I scale the kart, I want to get the tires lined up correctly. Now bear in mind when this kart was designed Trick said it had a 600 tire on the R/F. It had an 800 on the R/F when I bought it, a notch was cut in the spindle arm to accommodate it and it drives like a truck, but not with the 600. Now, I`ve been told two ways to set the tires before scaling, 1st set up, on the right side to have the center of the R/F tire lined up to the center of the R/R tire. On the left side, to have the L/F inside of the tire lined up with the outside of the L/R tire. With this setup I have 40 1/8" front track and 39 1/2" rear track. On the 2nd setup, on the right side to have the inside of the R/F tire lined up with the inside of the R/R tire. On the left side to have the L/F outside of the tire lined up with the outside of the L/R tire. This setup gives me 38 7/8" front track and 41 1/2" rear track. Is either one of these correct or should I try something else? Trick says my scaling numbers should be Front 45.1, Left 56.5, Rear 54.9 and Cross 62. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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I have a 1997 Trick Typhoon 1 1/4" tube frame, yes it`s old but so am I (71), and this will probably be my last year racing. I`m running a KT 100 w/jackshaft on Vegas. I want to have fun, but I also want to be competitive. Before I scale the kart, I want to get the tires lined up correctly. Now bear in mind when this kart was designed Trick said it had a 600 tire on the R/F. It had an 800 on the R/F when I bought it, a notch was cut in the spindle arm to accommodate it and it drives like a truck, but not with the 600. Now, I`ve been told two ways to set the tires before scaling, 1st set up, on the right side to have the center of the R/F tire lined up to the center of the R/R tire. On the left side, to have the L/F inside of the tire lined up with the outside of the L/R tire. With this setup I have 40 1/8" front track and 39 1/2" rear track. On the 2nd setup, on the right side to have the inside of the R/F tire lined up with the inside of the R/R tire. On the left side to have the L/F outside of the tire lined up with the outside of the L/R tire. This setup gives me 38 7/8" front track and 41 1/2" rear track. Is either one of these correct or should I try something else? Trick says my scaling numbers should be Front 45.1, Left 56.5, Rear 54.9 and Cross 62. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
If you choose one of the two listed try the first one not the second, however I would set front as close as I could without wheel rubbing spindle arm, then add 1/8 " spacers behind each front, rear I would set RR inside edge of wheel 3/8" to frame, and LR inside edge of wheel 1" to frame, and measurements are what they are. Numbers look OK but with a KT 100 I'd only go 58 % cross.
Good luck !!
 
If you choose one of the two listed try the first one not the second, however I would set front as close as I could without wheel rubbing spindle arm, then add 1/8 " spacers behind each front, rear I would set RR inside edge of wheel 3/8" to frame, and LR inside edge of wheel 1" to frame, and measurements are what they are. Numbers look OK but with a KT 100 I'd only go 58 % cross.
Good luck !!
Thanks for the input.
 
A reminder always before purchasing especially if your convinced your going to buy speed, especially if it's for rookie drivers, you must be true to yourself where your at with your program, because if your driver is simply not ready to go fast, and you don't except that you can purchase 2 of the best of everything and it's not going to make a difference.
 
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