A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

What is a good starting set for toe and camber?
Also scale numbers For a cage kart unknown make. Was told millennium but I can’t find any like it.
 
WRS said:
What is a good starting set for toe and camber?
Also scale numbers For a cage kart unknown make. Was told millennium but I can’t find any like it.
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Toe ⅛ out, camber is tire, track, kart dependant.
Cage kart is an oddity so you'll more than likely be experimenting from a baseline for the chassis.
Chassis from different eras liked different baselines
Pictures of the chassis will allow it to be dated.
Until then no one can give you numbers.
 
WRS said:
What is a good starting set for toe and camber?
Also scale numbers For a cage kart unknown make. Was told millennium but I can’t find any like it.
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We need more details , close year of chassis , track size , Class and weight you'll be racing it in , Tire of choice.
 
What about a starting point on scale numbers. Kart can’t be less then 290# caged kart Hoosier treads jr1 green plate. We are at 295 with no lead. The track is a 1/8 mile, clay surface, banked oval. Early 2000s vendetta
 
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msquared said:
Brian, I’m like you. So I live here in the South (VA). I’m just curious, what is the advantage of treaded tires over slicks? I mean we deal with all kinds of conditions here. But we cannot run treaded tires.

I’d like to see a tire test of treaded tires over slicks. That would be interesting!
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Treaded tires don’t lose grip when it gets dirty.( so multiple grooves can acually be used). I’ve personally driven a kart with Hoosier treads for 10,000+ laps. ( I have my own kart track). Treads last longer. You can go to track with 1 set and race for a long time. They put more strain on parts. They drive a lot better. We run a lot more air presssure then normal. Bump and runs are almost non existent racing treads unless you way way way faster than the other person. They are more expensive but cheaper in the long run. A person can buy a set and running 1 class a year. Could race same set of tires all year. For multiple years. No problem. I’d personally recommend everyone race on treads. Short tracks with banking. And you’ll never want to go back.
 

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blazeoctane40 said:
Treaded tires don’t lose grip when it gets dirty.( so multiple grooves can acually be used). I’ve personally driven a kart with Hoosier treads for 10,000+ laps. ( I have my own kart track). Treads last longer. You can go to track with 1 set and race for a long time. They put more strain on parts. They drive a lot better. We run a lot more air presssure then normal. Bump and runs are almost non existent racing treads unless you way way way faster than the other person. They are more expensive but cheaper in the long run. A person can buy a set and running 1 class a year. Could race same set of tires all year. For multiple years. No problem. I’d personally recommend everyone race on treads. Short tracks with banking. And you’ll never want to go back.
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We run Hoosier treads on the Open WInged Outlaw Karts and usually 3-5 shows and its time for new rears. D-50 RR will get you a little more time but not much lol.
 
Wingit said:
We run Hoosier treads on the Open WInged Outlaw Karts and usually 3-5 shows and it’s time for new rears. D-50 RR will get you a little more time but not much lol.
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We have our own track. We race 4-5 karts at a time. Basically clone engines with flat karts. Nighttime race. We race on average usually 300 laps a night. D30 all the way around. We run all year no issue. But we do a ton of watering. Keep quality surface. ETC.
 
blazeoctane40 said:
We have our own track. We race 4-5 karts at a time. Basically clone engines with flat karts. Nighttime race. We race on average usually 300 laps a night. D30 all the way around. We run all year no issue. But we do a ton of watering. Keep quality surface. ETC.
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Our Outlaw Karts have Honda CR450F dirtbike motors on them so they are pretty hard on axles and tires. Fortunatly those Hoosiers are pretty easy to regroove.
 
Grilleguy said:
Every week I take the same screwdriver and stick it in the track in the same spot in the racing groove. You will get a feel for how hard/soft the track is. Then, if possible, check it at intermission as well. Once you have a few weeks under your belt, you'll have a better idea on what you'll need for prep and or tire pressure.

Once you start to get a handle on track conditions, use a stop watch to time other classes to see if the track has picked up any speed. This works better if your class runs later in the line up, so you have time to make any gear changes that might be necessary.
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I purchased a moisture meter at Lowe’s to measure the moisture content of the track. I also purchased an infrared temp gun to take the temp of the tracks surface. I had a little weather station to measure the dew point. All important things to know.
 
I put 11/59 on the kart I like the rpm’s to be around 5800 it ran 6100 I dropped to 11/57 and the rpm’s were 6200. The track was dry slick. Does this mean the Clutch was slipping?
 
Your Gear Bound Keep removing rear teeth until you hit target RPM OR bump front driver up to a 12 leave rear gear same .
Is there a reason WHY you chose such a small front driver to start ?
 
racing promotor said:
Your Gear Bound Keep removing rear teeth until you hit target RPM OR bump front driver up to a 12 leave rear gear same .
Is there a reason WHY you chose such a small front driver to start ?
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Just trying things. I read less driver is faster off the corner. I’m new to karts. Just trying to figure things out.
 
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