Track Tac

A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

Clayton97 said:
The class I run in allows whatever tires you want to run being prepped slick tires or treaded Hoosier type tires. Is there a better one to choose? Will one be better to start with than the other?
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Provided you get on the right brand slick to match track conditions slicks will be faster.
 
racing promotor said:
Depends describe normal track conditions for racing with as much detail as possible, and is it low grip, mid grip, or good to high grip. ?
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The only information I have at this time on the track condition (we have not been able to have a race yet this year and it will be my first year) is that it is very dry and dusty and has little to no bank
 
Vega Yellows would be a good choice (IF it's open tire.) Track location, soil type, car count, all factor in though too.
If the treaded tire guys tear it up too much though, then you'd still do better to be on treads to cut through all of the marbles they throw back in the racing line.
 
Clayton97 said:
The only information I have at this time on the track condition (we have not been able to have a race yet this year and it will be my first year) is that it is very dry and dusty and has little to no bank
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Which Track is it ? and where ? might help someone may know of it.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Vega Yellows would be a good choice (IF it's open tire.) Track location, soil type, car count, all factor in though too.
If the treaded tire guys tear it up too much though, then you'd still do better to be on treads to cut through all of the marbles they throw back in the racing line.
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I would still not agree with the treaded tires ending up the fastest, maybe 2 tracks out of a 100 it would hold true if mostly sand surface, Here in Pa our biggest drawing event Trailways Kart Klassic is open tire rule, Dry , hard, slick and dust rolling over the groove, and NO ONE on treads.
 
racing promotor said:
I would still not agree with the treaded tires ending up the fastest, maybe 2 tracks out of a 100 it would hold true if mostly sand surface, Here in Pa our biggest drawing event Trailways Kart Klassic is open tire rule, Dry , hard, slick and dust rolling over the groove, and NO ONE on treads.
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You're missing the obvious, Ken -- when other classes MUST run treads, or other competitors are already on treads. Those guys tear up the track (outlaw winged cage karts, etc.) Many tracks in the midwest and plains states run these cars together on the same night. Some even dictate treaded tires (as a cost saver - heh, "NOT") for some of their flat kart classes as well.

I would agree that slicks are faster if everyone else were on slicks too. But when the track "crumbs up" from others running treads, you about have to go to treads (or grooved slicks) too.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
You're missing the obvious, Ken -- when other classes MUST run treads, or other competitors are already on treads. Those guys tear up the track (outlaw winged cage karts, etc.) Many tracks in the midwest and plains states run these cars together on the same night. Some even dictate treaded tires (as a cost saver - heh, "NOT") for some of their flat kart classes as well.

I would agree that slicks are faster if everyone else were on slicks too. But when the track "crumbs up" from others running treads, you about have to go to treads (or grooved slicks) too.
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No not missing the point just failed to include it, treads do run here at trailways on 300s and 600s and plus have raced at other places where slingshots are included in the program, on all stocker classes slicks will prevail 99.5 % of the time, provided there's any experienced competition present.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
You're missing the obvious, Ken -- when other classes MUST run treads, or other competitors are already on treads. Those guys tear up the track (outlaw winged cage karts, etc.) Many tracks in the midwest and plains states run these cars together on the same night. Some even dictate treaded tires (as a cost saver - heh, "NOT") for some of their flat kart classes as well.

I would agree that slicks are faster if everyone else were on slicks too. But when the track "crumbs up" from others running treads, you about have to go to treads (or grooved slicks) too.
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We have a predator class local that is split about 50/50 slicks and grooves. I feel like you can watch the grooved karts take off well and if they run more than 3/4 laps green you can see them come back to the guys with slicks. Maybe a compound deal as well.
 
The biggest problem with treads is most track customers are on slicks and eventually tracks capitulate to some cry baby slick racers who continuously complain about the treads tearing up "their" track.

Just a comment my feelings are it's the same track for everyone and if open tires it's open tires.
This is probably off the subject but IMHO eventually the track will end up slicks only unless it's a private only track and that's the way they want to do it.

racinnut15xm said:
We have a predator class local that is split about 50/50 slicks and grooves. I feel like you can watch the grooved karts take off well and if they run more than 3/4 laps green you can see them come back to the guys with slicks. Maybe a compound deal as well.
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Do the grooved karts take off better then the flat karts or just good, ok or the same as the slick tire karts?
 
Can somebody very clearly and easily explain gearing to me? What I need to look for and what I should shoot for? What does the ratio mean etc. I think a lot of it will be trial and error based on your cart and track etc but is there a good place to start?
 
Clayton97 said:
Can somebody very clearly and easily explain gearing to me? What I need to look for and what I should shoot for? What does the ratio mean etc. I think a lot of it will be trial and error based on your cart and track etc but is there a good place to start?
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For which engine class and weight ?
 
Clayton97 said:
Can somebody very clearly and easily explain gearing to me? What I need to look for and what I should shoot for? What does the ratio mean etc. I think a lot of it will be trial and error based on your cart and track etc but is there a good place to start?
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There is no easy, It's trial & error but some guy's are just good at looking at the track and judging it close, track size and shape has a lot to do with it plus the amount of grip and natural momentum the track produces, in general the heavier stocker classes the smaller the front driver, the lighter classes and smaller the plate the bigger front driver, then a champ kart VS an open flat chassis is one smaller driver for same engine, Clone will be 1 driver size bigger than an animal most always.
 
I think it's worth a reminding note of a few things, If your just started out don't start without scaling the kart and setting cambers, don't start on JUNK tires and wrong tires, do most of your homework on tires, once set up and you start DO NOT adjust cross or caster for handling issues, once you have a lot of seat time and are running with the pack only then consider tweaking cross or caster for speed, understand what your in for it takes seat time and a lot of it to get up to speed, Don't start throwing good money into the best engine before your ready to go fast, Remember If your not making momentum due to being off the throttle to much, Tires, or your line you'll chase RPM's till the cows come home, get on the proven gearing combo for your class and leave it alone until your getting your target RPM, as it's a gauge for some reason your not making same momentum as others.
 
racing promotor said:
Get a tire guy to cut them and finish but if that's out of the question at least sand the glaze off ,BUT NOT with a small 4" disc grinder use a 6" or 7" sander polisher lower speed or belt sander if you don't have a disc, keep tire wet while sanding ( DO NOT OVER HEAT TIRE ) mix some alcohol in with Simple Green or Windex, paper nothing real course 150 grit or finer, use a regular re-finish machine to turn them that turns slower don't spin them to fast either.
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Silly question, but why not use a 4" sander? I have several D/A sanders that I used recently, and seemed to work ok.
 
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