A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

Looked around the forums and would like some more info on the differences between EL’s and P&B’s. Which condition would favor one over the other? Is one more friendly on the budget than the other? Any info passed is greatly appreciated!
 
Looked around the forums and would like some more info on the differences between EL’s and P&B’s. Which condition would favor one over the other? Is one more friendly on the budget than the other? Any info passed is greatly appreciated!
Sorry I have no experience with EL's send Earl at So Co tire treatments a PM he can help you.
 
Looked around the forums and would like some more info on the differences between EL’s and P&B’s. Which condition would favor one over the other? Is one more friendly on the budget than the other? Any info passed is greatly appreciated!
EL is a spec tire .
I believe pinks and blue out preform them everytime .
They may be cheaper in the longevity sense if you have a spec class .
 
Hi all,

Thank you all for helping this awesome sport!

We are new to karting. We have two flat karts. One for a Jr. 1 animal class and one in Jr. 2 animal (both on dirt). Both karts are Ultramax Octane. We purchased the Accutoe Pro to align the karts but we can't get the laser to hit the mirror on the right front tire. The laser is outside the extended length of the front spindle adapter with the mirror on it. Is there a longer front spindle or is there adjustment to get the right front out further? Is the problem in the back? I've Googled and searched with no luck. Thanks in advance.
 
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So it hits on the left ?
Do you have a lot of axle sticking out past the hub ?
You could slid the axle over .
 
Hi all,

Thank you all for helping this awesome sport!

We are new to karting. We have two flat karts. One for a Jr. 1 animal class and one in Jr. 2 animal (both on dirt). Both karts are Ultramax Octane. We purchased the Accutoe Pro to align the karts but we can't get the laser to hit the mirror on the right front tire. The laser is outside the extended length of the front spindle adapter with the mirror on it. Is there a longer front spindle or is there adjustment to get the right front out further? Is the problem in the back? I've Googled and searched with no luck. Thanks in advance.
I'm guessing that the rear axle has been replaced at some point and is either not centered, or too long of length for the chassis.
Also make sure that your laser is not bouncing off of your side panels / body. If it hits even slightly, it will reflect/refract and hit wide of the RF. You may have to remove the body and/or nerf bars to get a clear shot with the laser if the side panels are in the way of the laser. If that's the case, the body has likely been mounted incorrectly (offset) as well.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
I'm guessing that the rear axle has been replaced at some point and is either not centered, or too long of length for the chassis.
Also make sure that your laser is not bouncing off of your side panels / body. If it hits even slightly, it will reflect/refract and hit wide of the RF. You may have to remove the body and/or nerf bars to get a clear shot with the laser if the side panels are in the way of the laser. If that's the case, the body has likely been mounted incorrectly (offset) as well.
I think you might be right as far as the axle. I followed the laser on the floor up to the front to make sure it wasn't hitting something. I did some measuring and the rear axle is 36" wide. It leaves a little over 2" sticking out past the left and the right hubs. Can I slide it one way to set to the front end and then bring it back without issues or are we better off getting a 32" axle?
 
Sliding it would be way too much work .
Shortening it would be a possibility . Though would require some expertise ; as you need the snap ring too comply with the safety regulations/rules .
 
We'll order a 32". Sounds inevitable either way. Is there much of a difference between a thin walled and a regular axle other than rotating weight?
 
We'll order a 32". Sounds inevitable either way. Is there much of a difference between a thin walled and a regular axle other than rotating weight?
There is a difference . You should stick with standard .
Thin wall typically is for asphalt , coke syrup or very high bite situations .
 
Check your PM
I am not seeing any PM's.

Awesome. I ordered the standard. Thanks for the great information. I'll be back for more I'm sure. I've raced on dirt for 5 years now and I've had a rough go at it. I've had some help but have always raced on used up equipment and fought with everything. I don't intend on putting these kids through that. I want them to enjoy it and hopefully create a long lasting passion.
 
Caster & Lead
Quote RP .


Some info I have ,Lead If the right side of the kart has a wheelbase greater than the left side, the kart has lead.
Lag If the right side of the kart has a wheelbase less than the left side, the kart has lag.
when adjusting lead or lag you should always make sure that steering geometry is not sacrificed. Changing lead or lag will not effect your caster, camber or KPI. Lead or lag will effect toe, front end alignment and static weights, and all should be reset to the desired settings after adjusting.
Moving the RF forward will tighten the chassis.
Moving the RF towards the rear of the kart will loosen the chassis.
Moving the LR forward will loosen the chassis.
Moving the LR towards the rear of the kart tightens the chassis.

Caster split is the difference in degrees when comparing the LF & RF caster.
The more caster split a kart has, the more the kart will turn naturally toward the side with the lower degrees of caster USUALLY LEFT, making the kart feel looser. Reducing the amount of caster split will tighten the chassis, As backwards as it may sound, tracks that are hard and abrasive are usually faster with low split, while tracks that are more loose are usually faster with 3 degree split or more.

Insufficient caster is noticeable in two ways, the kart will be darty and difficult to keep in a straight line on the chutes.
The kart will be extremely loose on corner exit, and may spin out at the slightest twitch of the steering, or without any warning whatsoever.

Excessive Caster is noticeable, When the kart begins to slow only several laps into a run.
When the Right side tires are overheating.

Where to start If you don't know 8 left and 11 right is a good starting point.

Remember
If the kart feels too tight and your using less than 2 degrees of split, increase the split.
If the kart feels to loose and your using more than 3 degrees of caster split, reduce the split.
caster changes the effects of cross, more caster equals more weight transferred and vise versa.
High grip tracks less caster can be used efficiently.
 
Camber
Quote RP .
Some RF camber info I've obtained, Going more Neg on RF camber will magnify the effects of the RF caster, helping the kart turn in quicker and loosening the chassis throughout the corner, Negative RF camber keeps the RF sidewall from rolling under when weight is transferred to it during cornering, and frees the kart up throughout the corner. Excessive negative RF camber can result in a push late in a run due to overheating on the inside of the RF causing the tire to give up. Tires have designed operating ranges, which once exceeded, will cause the kart to become extremely loose.
Going more positive on RF camber reduces the effects of RF caster, will slow the kart turn in and tighten the chassis.
The way I see it RF camber has a lot of effect on RF caster but very little to do with stagger.
 
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