Alignment...
- Thread starter J par
- Start date
alvin l nunley
Site Supporter
Back in the dark ages I used a pencil to mark each front tire. Spin the tire, touch it lightly with the pencil. Measured across the front, measured across the back, subtracted one from the other, adjusted accordingly. I used 1/16 toe-in as a rule. In the dark ages front ends were kinda loose. I had this idea that going down the straight the pressure on the tires would take up some of that 1/16" so they would be rolling straight down the straightaway. Maybe not perfect, the new tools probably do a better job, but there expensive and they were nonexistent in the dark ages.
One Fast Kat
Member
Depends on you level of competition and you mechanical ability. and $$$ To buy all the tools to check, weights, caster, Camber, toe you can easily spend $2,000+ buying new stuff , about half of that if used. It takes 2 people to get the process done.
Watch bobs and you will see some bargains on used stuff.
I see you are new on this site, so if you decide to buy from someone on here , Be sure to post and ask If that person is reliable. And look to see how long they have been a member.
Watch bobs and you will see some bargains on used stuff.
I see you are new on this site, so if you decide to buy from someone on here , Be sure to post and ask If that person is reliable. And look to see how long they have been a member.
One Fast Kat
Member
Yes with full gear in the position that you race. With correct air pressure in tires that you plan to race. Either full of fuel or a appropriate weight on the fuel tank. That is for a full check of everything. But to check alignment only , make sure it is on a level surface, with you in the kart.
I think I'll just call tomorrow for an appointment to have it aligned...
I don't think this is a toe and until out situation it also has caster and camber..
Christopher Ragan
Member
place the steering wheel straight
then
Set the wheel base equal on each side
Adjust to desired toe setting 0 to 1/32 toe in for me. Turn each tie rod equally, keeping the wheel base measurement the same on each side. Be sure and tighten the jam nuts on the tie rods. Remeasure once you're finished setting the toe.
then
Set the wheel base equal on each side
Adjust to desired toe setting 0 to 1/32 toe in for me. Turn each tie rod equally, keeping the wheel base measurement the same on each side. Be sure and tighten the jam nuts on the tie rods. Remeasure once you're finished setting the toe.
Freezeman
Site Supporter
The same company that makes your top pill adjusters on your kart makes the Sniper alignment tool. They are the go to product for most sprint racers. Watch some video's on how to use them, they are a good investment. Just like any other calibrated tool, treat them well and try not to lone them out to people that might not. I can't tell for sure from your picture of your spindle, yet most of them have that area between your wheel spacers and kingpin that is machined parallel to the hubs surface that allows the snippers to be mounted with your wheels in place so you can do loaded or unloaded measurements with them on your kart..
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Actually that's kind of how I found the tool was I just kind of Google kart alignment and it showed a video of a guy using that laser maybe in Australia?.. but when I looked up the price for $289 it sure wasn't the $2,000 that was mentioned or even $1,000 for used.. I'd be highly interested to see what the local shop charges for an alignment. I mean if it's over $40 I think buying the tool and being able to experiment would be much more down the avenue of my personality as far as doing my own thing...
Freezeman
Site Supporter
The V2 pictured is one of two styles Snipper makes I think it's the V4 which utilizes 4 lazers for additional front to rear axle alignment is the high dollar one. It measures for any frame twist that can be missed with just the V2. The V2 will be fine just realize that the front two spindles can lazer out to be straight across from each other yet the front end can still be twisted up on one side or the other which is quite normal to happen with the small tube import sprint chassis.
sundog
Member
All you need is a 3' metal ruler, 8' tape measure, a 12" square and a flat level surface.
Where to start? Take off the wheels and wheel hubs. Make sure your rear axle's not bent and it's centered left to right.
Take off the sprocket and the brake disk. Put the 3' ruler across the bottom of the frame under the rear axle and measure from the top of the ruler to the bottom of the axle. Should be the same from left to right.
Next take off the seat and engine, have someone hold the ruler across the top of the king pins then get behind the kart with your eye on center line compare the ruler to the rear axle to see if your frame is twisted.
So much more but I'm not going to write a book on here.
Sundog
Where to start? Take off the wheels and wheel hubs. Make sure your rear axle's not bent and it's centered left to right.
Take off the sprocket and the brake disk. Put the 3' ruler across the bottom of the frame under the rear axle and measure from the top of the ruler to the bottom of the axle. Should be the same from left to right.
Next take off the seat and engine, have someone hold the ruler across the top of the king pins then get behind the kart with your eye on center line compare the ruler to the rear axle to see if your frame is twisted.
So much more but I'm not going to write a book on here.
Sundog
One Fast Kat
Member
$2,000 was for the entire kart setup package including Scales and scale stand, laser alignment Caster camber guages. Not just for the laser.
Christopher Ragan
Member
Tape measure and sliding bar pointer (can't remember the tech term)
The kart was bought brand new 4 years ago and driven by a shy kid to learn how to drive. It was never raced... Top to bottom front to back the kart looks near brand new. I would be literally shocked to find out the frame was bent...
Hi , if you are interested in a Sniper V.2 , I have one that is the same as new I will sell as I no longer race .
$225.00 plus a little shipping . Please send me your contact info and I'll send you pictures . They do work excellent and
with the room you have between the wheel hub and kingpin you can do a loaded and unloaded measurement .
Thanks RB
$225.00 plus a little shipping . Please send me your contact info and I'll send you pictures . They do work excellent and
with the room you have between the wheel hub and kingpin you can do a loaded and unloaded measurement .
Thanks RB
Appreciate the feedback on the sniper and also the offer... but I'm not trying to buy to much stuff until I get more information and experience... Again thank you..
sundog
Member
If you want to assume the frame was made properly and never bent and the axle was installed right then all you need to do is make sure the king pin spacers are the same top and bottom on both spindles then set the pitman arm on the steering column so it's fairly centered then adjust your tie rods so you have equal wheel base left to right (tape measure) then set your front wheels for 1/8" negative camber and 1/16" toe in and set your caster to the neutral setting. This can easily be done with a tape measure on the inside side wall of the front tires.
Sundog
Sundog
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