Alky Sudam conversion

The stripping and rebuilding is easy . Teflon or rubber diaphragm's .
Teflon last longer but not as flexible .
Trying too get a drill pattern might bring the same result . That's a closely guarded secret . Much like a build sheet , I don't see any one selling there build sheet .
Here's my take double the area of your metering holes . Set your pop off .
After running pop off can be used to richen or lean the overall carb . Less pop off richer more pop off leaner .
Fulcrum arm hieght plays in as well .
If the needles end up almost closed it's got too much metering hole area .
Provided you haven't smoked the engine by now another carb with a different drill pattern is in order .
 
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Once again you guys are a great help 🙂

I've been looking through the various carb distributors you guys have out there, your carb prices are crazy! Good 24mm 100cc FA carbs are half the price over here 😂 I will endeavour to try and get one of the companies to give me a run down on the parts and processes to strip and rebuild a tilly over here for methanol. I don't think i necessarily need a special blueprinted carb as it's not got to have every last 0.1hp strangled from it.

I did speak with Buller a few months ago, who i believe are the go to guys in the US for Sudams? I wanted to buy a pair of crank halves to build a Sudam up but they just stopped replying to me, even after a follow up email which left a sour taste unfortunately.

It's nice to talk to guys who know about these engines, thanks very much
Buller and TS were the main sources for sudams. You most likely didn’t get a reply about the crank halves because the US has been hung out to dry on sudam parts including the motors themselves. Kermit still makes stroker cranks and rods when he feels like it but that’s basically it. IAME destroyed the castings at the factory so the motor could never be made again so they’re literally impossible to get new now and their parts unless someone decides to make some. There may be some left in Europe but the import duties make it a wash from what Kermit at Buller told me. Everything in the US now is secondhand which is why I think people are so afraid of selling them. They simply don’t exist besides the one already in circulation.
 
Once again you guys are a great help 🙂

I've been looking through the various carb distributors you guys have out there, your carb prices are crazy! Good 24mm 100cc FA carbs are half the price over here 😂 I will endeavour to try and get one of the companies to give me a run down on the parts and processes to strip and rebuild a tilly over here for methanol. I don't think i necessarily need a special blueprinted carb as it's not got to have every last 0.1hp strangled from it.

I did speak with Buller a few months ago, who i believe are the go to guys in the US for Sudams? I wanted to buy a pair of crank halves to build a Sudam up but they just stopped replying to me, even after a follow up email which left a sour taste unfortunately.

It's nice to talk to guys who know about these engines, thanks very much
Buller is very busy but offers great customer service, believe me. He will make any part you can imagine for any open 2 stroke but if the part is not on his stock you might have to wait till he makes a new batch . Now you can't compare the price of a stock 24 mm carb for gas with the work involved in building a bigger carb especially custom made for your application on methanol. I would either get duals from Buller or a good single from EC. If you want junk from anyone else it will be cheap but you'll spend more replacing stuck pistons, messed cylinder walls, heads, crank bearings, etc. Besides a top good blue printed 24 mm is not much cheaper. When I raced ICAs in Europe a top carburator like a good IBEA would cost more than any of the bigger carbs you can buy here in the US for open engines.
 
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Hi Guys, hope you've all had a good Christmas :)

With everything going on ever here I've only just got my hands on it and it's beautiful! I have a Tilly 334ab I'll rebuild to run it in on as it's fresh from a rebuild and then start looking into the upgrades. I've been noticing you guys run 2 tilly 360s, which are fairly common over here, I'll see if i can get some info as you guys have said on converting them to Meth, may work out to be a more affordable option from this side of the pond.

Thanks, Thomas..........
 

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Hi Guys, hope you've all had a good Christmas :)

With everything going on ever here I've only just got my hands on it and it's beautiful! I have a Tilly 334ab I'll rebuild to run it in on as it's fresh from a rebuild and then start looking into the upgrades. I've been noticing you guys run 2 tilly 360s, which are fairly common over here, I'll see if i can get some info as you guys have said on converting them to Meth, may work out to be a more affordable option from this side of the pond.

Thanks, Thomas..........
That’s a very small carb to be running alcohol off of. I wouldn’t run any single carb on alky on a sudam that’s smaller than 34mm. I wouldn’t use a 334 even on a 116 reed or rotary motor. With added squish and advance (the only reason alky would be worth your time) you need a lot more air and fuel for that motor, especially if you’re running DD and the usual 16-18K that comes with that style of racing. Play it safe, get an already converted Mikuni 34mm or a Tilly 191 if you want a single carb setup. On the flip side those are only available here in the states and if you’re going to order from the US you might as well get the duals and the manifold from Buller or Haddock. Hate to see you stick a piston on a motor the first time out. If there’s one thing about alky and two cycles, doing it right the first time always pays off.
 
My two cents for what its worth, all you need for now is a carb set up for alky. If the engine is stock just run it with the right carb. Depending on the ignition type find out where its set now, you may not need to change it. As far as porting and compression you do not need to change it to race it. you can change that later if you are looking for more power later. I use to run a stock tt75 on gas, change the carb to run alky and it would run just fine with out changing any thing else. Do not over think this, but its very important to have the carb correct and know where to set it. A egt gauge will make it easier to learn where you need to set the needles.
 
That’s a very small carb to be running alcohol off of. I wouldn’t run any single carb on alky on a sudam that’s smaller than 34mm. I wouldn’t use a 334 even on a 116 reed or rotary motor. With added squish and advance (the only reason alky would be worth your time) you need a lot more air and fuel for that motor, especially if you’re running DD and the usual 16-18K that comes with that style of racing. Play it safe, get an already converted Mikuni 34mm or a Tilly 191 if you want a single carb setup. On the flip side those are only available here in the states and if you’re going to order from the US you might as well get the duals and the manifold from Buller or Haddock. Hate to see you stick a piston on a motor the first time out. If there’s one thing about alky and two cycles, doing it right the first time always pays off.
Sorry i should have said, The 334 was purely to run the engine in on Gas :) For racing it'd be next to useless id imagine. Since posting the pics I've found a shop locally that can supply brand new 360a's at 55gbp (75USD) each, which i thought was a bargain, also cheaper than rebuilding this 334. If i can get the bits to convert them to Alcohol over here, all I'll need is the manifold from you guys to finish the conversion. The one thing im struggling to find out is if the fuel channels MUST be drilled out for Alky? Or can i strip 2 standard carbs, rebuild with the double stack and other necessaries and bolt them on? :)
My two cents for what its worth, all you need for now is a carb set up for alky. If the engine is stock just run it with the right carb. Depending on the ignition type find out where its set now, you may not need to change it. As far as porting and compression you do not need to change it to race it. you can change that later if you are looking for more power later. I use to run a stock tt75 on gas, change the carb to run alky and it would run just fine with out changing any thing else. Do not over think this, but its very important to have the carb correct and know where to set it. A egt gauge will make it easier to learn where you need to set the needles.
Although it's just been rebuilt i do need to find out or measure myself what spec its been assembled too. It's like brand new inside 😎 I'm not intending to adjust anything internally just yet as you say, best to leave it alone and just get the carb set up sorted

Thanks, Thomas.....
 
petes advice is spot on leave the engine alone and get the carb working first and understand the procedure for tuning the carb and running itthen after awhile then proceede to ignition compression,and porting ,good luck
 
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