Animal recoil starter problems (hard starting)

M

mattf76

Member
I have installed a stock animal in a mini sled. Must use a recoil starter. Problem is the thing is a bear to start, it rips recoil out of your hand when you try to pull it. Im not new to kart racing and starting these modded engines and such but this is rediculous. lol The animal cam looks to have a compression release on it and tiny spring. how can I tell if its working properly or spring is correctly positioned. can anyone pm me a pic of animal cam with it correctly installed? I tried starting it yesterday so the kid could ride it around and the recoil literally blew apart. timing is at 28 degrees lash at .003. no modified compression. Is this a normal carachteristic of these engines or can something be done..? Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt
 
It is a problem when ever the animal motor is modded. First the 28 degree timing causes it to fire 28 degrees before TDC which is a long amount of time before TDC when the cranking rpm is slow with a recoil starter, this causes it to fire up and push the piston down in the opposite position of running rotation which rips the cord out of your hand and blows the recoil apart. Next if the valve springs are modded from stock the increased seat pressure from stock bends the little tab down on the compression release instead of pushing up on the lifter and opening the exhaust valve slightly to decrease the compression of the compression stroke.
 
I was afraid of that! Its not really modded. Just minor radius work in the ports and it has dyno stock appearing animal springs. which may have bent the tab as you stated. Thanks for the info. Guess a new recoil and hold on tight!
Matt
 
The first thing you need to check is the valve lash.
If you have the valves set too loose the compression release won't work.
It's common for people to set the valves on the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke (valve overlap time)
When you do this the valves are way too loose and you make a trip to the Doctor to have your arm XRAYED.

If the valves are set properly remove the spark plug and the valve cover and turn the engine over very slowly. Watch the exhaust valve for about . 025 to 040" movement as the piston comes up on the compression stroke.
If it doesn't do this the compression release is broken.
Dyno stock appearing springs will not damage the compression release.
 
thank you jimbo, I will be sure to check that out. is .003 intake and exhaust the correct valve lash setting for the stock cam? I set it like I typically set them on dirt oval cars. I set intake when exhaust is half way open, and set exhaust when intake is half way closed. on base circle of camshaft.
Matt
 
Forget the 1/2 way open stuff and just put the piston at TDC and adjust both valves at the same time to zero lash.
Just turn the push rods between your thumb and pointer finger.
 
Right on the mark Jimbo Had that happen on my 206 and was almost impossable to pull over. I didn't roll the engine over far enough when I set the valve lash. Reset it and everthing was fine.
 
Jimbo said:
Forget the 1/2 way open stuff and just put the piston at TDC and adjust both valves at the same time to zero lash.
Just turn the push rods between your thumb and pointer finger.
Click to expand...
I read this an almost missed it . zero lash. yet able to spin push rod.
flathead hurt me.
 
flattop1 said:
I read this an almost missed it . zero lash. yet able to spin push rod.
flathead hurt me.
Click to expand...

It's a good procedure to know. That's been the accepted method of setting zero lash for decades on OHV racing motorcycle engines that required it, and it gives you zero lash without the risk of actually preloading the valve. As you play with it, you get a real appreciation of just how precise being able to spin the pushrod without being able to sense any vertical play really is. +1 to jimbo for passing it on.
 
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