Animal Refresh

Tanderson01

New member
Hey guys, another rookie question but trying to learn all I can. Knowledge is power. Is there a “typical” grocery list of items when doing a motor refresh on these and what does it consist of? Obviously depending on whether or not the motor suffered any damage the lists will change but what are the normal items to be swapped out? Thanks
 
Rod , rings and springs is the minimum .
If an billet rod bearing inserts .
All time and use dependent .
 
Hey guys, another rookie question but trying to learn all I can. Knowledge is power. Is there a “typical” grocery list of items when doing a motor refresh on these and what does it consist of? Obviously depending on whether or not the motor suffered any damage the lists will change but what are the normal items to be swapped out? Thanks

Rings, (piston if scuffed or bore is worn), rod bearings, valve springs, valves & guides if worn, gasket set, spark plug, fuel lines and filter.
Rebuilds can run from a couple hundred bucks to 5 or 6 hundred depending on what it needs.
If everything is in good condition and within spec, you can get away pretty cheap on parts, but labor will still get you a couple hundred regardless if you go through a builder.
We charge $200 +parts for a typical BP'd animal rebuild....Average after parts might be in the $350 - $400 range for an animal engine that's been maintained and kept up well.
An LO206, on the other hand, is around $150 (parts AND labor.)

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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
is this really that common of a practice? Seems excessive?
The terrible rod angle and subsequent load are good enough reason to change rod bolts often.
Also excessive rpm (ie throw a chain, wheel hop, etc.) A junior plate engine turning 6200 rpm won't need rod bolts replaced near as often as an unrestricted engine turning 7800.
Use some common sense when changing parts out. They definitely do have a limited life cycle.
 
Like others have said here, the tools are way too expensive to be a DIY'er for complete rebuilds. In my case, I'm a stubborn old coot, so I bought the tools anyhow. My latest purchase was a used valve grinder. Between buying it and the repairs it needed to get it back in shape, I'll never get my money back. With what tools I own and a good friend of mine own, there's nothing I can't do for a rebuild. I truly enjoy rebuilding these little powerplants and see how well I can make them run, so for me it's worth it. Honestly, karting would be pretty boring for me if I didn't do it that way. It's possible to be a DIY'er but it costs a lot of money to get set up for it, and you're going to trash some parts along the way as you learn. Ask me how I know that......
 
The terrible rod angle and subsequent load are good enough reason to change rod bolts often.
Also excessive rpm (ie throw a chain, wheel hop, etc.) A junior plate engine turning 6200 rpm won't need rod bolts replaced near as often as an unrestricted engine turning 7800.
Use some common sense when changing parts out. They definitely do have a limited life cycle.
i'm right in the middle of those RPM's and have a rev-limiter. We will go with every other rebuild for bolts i guess until i see a reason to do otherwise. I'm just an young Diy'er aquiring tools for measuring/double checking guys and outsource the machine work.
 
The animal is the best karting motor over all. Do a leak down both hot and cold. The head needs much more attention then the lower end if it was built properly. If you are turning it 8000 ignore everything I said.
 
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