Anxious to get it started.

S

Skidplate

New member
I am new to the cart. It's a 60's era vintage cart with Komer K-125 2 stroke. The piston will not move at all when you pull the start handle (no resistance). the piston cycles fine from the outboard shaft when the plug has been removed (shaft nut is left-threaded.) The nut will spin off when the spark plug has been reinstalled due to compression.
The shaft nut is standard six sided, there is an allen bolt in the nut ( opposite the engine side). I am using an electric hand drill to spin the motor over but the nut spins free if the spark plug is in place.
Help. Please forgive my inexperience, just can't wait to hear it running.
 
From that description it sounds like they were starting from the left side with a left handed rotation starter .
There are or were 2 peice starter nuts for that situation .
Is there no starter cup for the pull start ?
 
flattop1 said:
From that description it sounds like they were starting from the left side with a left handed rotation starter .
There are or were 2 peice starter nuts for that situation .
Is there no starter cup for the pull start ?
Click to expand...
I am not sure, mabey I could attach a few pix to make it easier to understand. But if the motor was to spin in a lefthand rotation the axle spins in reverse.
 
Yea that won't work . The chain is outboard then ?
You do not have a start box ? Most of them have the hex drive installed .
That how I start the yamaha hex drive .
Some one should have a better idea what you need soon .
The pull start should work apparently something is missing or I am not following the description .
 
Forget the pull starter, the rope just snaps off when the engine quits and kicks back. The hex nut for the clutch should be tight enough with blue loctite not to come off when starting. It gets a socket head in the end that locks it to the shaft so you can engage a 5/16 drive starter. Don't take the spark plug in/out when the head is hot and don't over torque the plug. With 1/2 reach plugs, the head strips out on these often.
 
The other thing you can do is use a longer Allen Head Cap Screw with a standard nut threaded on below. LH will be slightly harder to source. Thread shank into the hole with blue loctite, then snug the "stop nut" back against the crank stub to add tension and prevent backing out while cranking. Make sure it's a proper length so that there's not much, if any, exposed shank. Allow loctite to cure. Then use the internal hex head as your starter nut. If you do this, make sure it's a HIGH QUALITY bolt... The plus being that if it strips out, you can always back the nut off and remove the assembly still.
 
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