Bama 250

All 3 of those produce 60-80 HP depending on how built you want it. I will say this and don’t take it offensive; if you’re on a road course you can’t beat a gearbox and direct drive. When you run centrifugal clutches you are at the mercy of the final ratio needed to make the longest straight away with no recourse to get out of the hole on the tightest corner. All these packages are great motors for what we do which is oval racing because we can fine tune and tweak all day for the perfect setup on a track that only has 4 corners. But if I was told I was going to be running a dirt road course, I’d be taking a 250 with a gearbox intact that has some cranked up timing/compression and letting it eat. There will always be time lost in the tighter corners because the clutch is slipping out of the chute because you have a final ratio that gets you to the end of the longest straightaway, where a gearbox allows you to choose the fastest gear to get going again without clutch slippage. My $0.02 and that’s it.
 
twostroketoowoke said:
All 3 of those produce 60-80 HP depending on how built you want it. I will say this and don’t take it offensive; if you’re on a road course you can’t beat a gearbox and direct drive. When you run centrifugal clutches you are at the mercy of the final ratio needed to make the longest straight away with no recourse to get out of the hole on the tightest corner. All these packages are great motors for what we do which is oval racing because we can fine tune and tweak all day for the perfect setup on a track that only has 4 corners. But if I was told I was going to be running a dirt road course, I’d be taking a 250 with a gearbox intact that has some cranked up timing/compression and letting it eat. There will always be time lost in the tighter corners because the clutch is slipping out of the chute because you have a final ratio that gets you to the end of the longest straightaway, where a gearbox allows you to choose the fastest gear to get going again without clutch slippage. My $0.02 and that’s it.
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That's great advice, thanks. With a gearbox kart it's very busy changing gears as the track is very twisty. What gearbox engine would you suggest?
 
Gillies said:
That's great advice, thanks. With a gearbox kart it's very busy changing gears as the track is very twisty. What gearbox engine would you suggest?
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Also… if you run one of three caseless setups listed, you must run them with a jackshaft. Direct drive *could* be done with them but that’s a lot of stress on the crank with a chain and if you ran a belt it would inevitably catch a rock or dirt clod and shred. An axle clutch (chain or belt) would never hold up to the HP. If you run them as intended with a birky or dry clutch, there’s a good chance heat will have you going through belts like crazy.
 
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Twin cylinder single case PVP 250 6speed superkart engine 102 hp. stock out of the box12000-16000 $ might get a deal in the off season. Check on line (superkarts) I'm positive it will get the job done later Chuck.
 
PK250 seems to be a great engine, and very reliable. Stephen Gleason is a great person to deal with and very knowledgeable.
 
twostroketoowoke said:
All 3 of those produce 60-80 HP depending on how built you want it. I will say this and don’t take it offensive; if you’re on a road course you can’t beat a gearbox and direct drive. When you run centrifugal clutches you are at the mercy of the final ratio needed to make the longest straight away with no recourse to get out of the hole on the tightest corner. All these packages are great motors for what we do which is oval racing because we can fine tune and tweak all day for the perfect setup on a track that only has 4 corners. But if I was told I was going to be running a dirt road course, I’d be taking a 250 with a gearbox intact that has some cranked up timing/compression and letting it eat. There will always be time lost in the tighter corners because the clutch is slipping out of the chute because you have a final ratio that gets you to the end of the longest straightaway, where a gearbox allows you to choose the fastest gear to get going again without clutch slippage. My $0.02 and that’s it.
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Well, let me tell you one thing. I have a Modena KZ which is one of the best sprint engine packages for sprint tracks, and it can even be faster than some single cylinder 250s at enduro races, but at sprint tracks my Aixro XR50 (aka Wankel) is as fast as the KZ and much easier to drive, without a gear box. It all depends on many things. I do have direct drive engines too, and it is true at at sprint tracks the old direct drive ICA small engines were very fast, faster than engine with engine clutches. As I said I have tried and own all these engines, and also a stroker Sudam, have like 30 and different engines can offer similar performance as lap times prove, but some are easier to maintain and drive. The KZ is also surprisingly reliable, something the old ICA and SA were not.
 
nobozos said:
Twin cylinder single case PVP 250 6speed superkart engine 102 hp. stock out of the box12000-16000 $ might get a deal in the off season. Check on line (superkarts) I'm positive it will get the job done later Chuck.
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Those twin cylinder are great engines, as Chuck here says, but if the track has tight corners a smaller engine might be better. Very pricey too. I still want to see a twin cylinder 250 on a dirt oval. Wish i could get one for the right price.
 
I've run Birky clutches ever since I switched to 2 strokes and I believe you could run a Birky with a 250. You might go with a 4 wheeler 250 as they are setup for more torque. TRX250r, Kawasaki Tecate3 is a short stroke engine, the Tecate4 is a long stroke engine. Suzuki LT250 and Yamaha had the Tri-Z250. cut the trans off and build a J/S. Or you could buy a PK250 and be done.
 
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