Been over lubing chain

Ratistiss

Member
I realize I have been over lubing the chain on our flatkart (runs on dirt). I am going to pull it off and try cleaning it. Any suggestion on how to properly do this? It is a Bully 2 disc 6 spring. Thanks in advance
 
I realize I have been over lubing the chain on our flatkart (runs on dirt). I am going to pull it off and try cleaning it. Any suggestion on how to properly do this? It is a Bully 2 disc 6 spring. Thanks in advance
Stealth Clutch told me run dry or like a 4-1 dry lube. I was getting clutch with oil. I use the dry lube with no issue. I have not had a clutch issue since.
 
The clutch or chain.
Clutch take the bell/basket off .
Soak the entire clutch in a coffee can or metal pot . In acetone .
Chain any good solvent .
Lubricate then let it drip dry or wipe with a rag .
Hot oil treatment works well also .
Search chain maintenance , chain lubrication or similar terms .
 
I realize I have been over lubing the chain on our flatkart (runs on dirt). I am going to pull it off and try cleaning it. Any suggestion on how to properly do this? It is a Bully 2 disc 6 spring. Thanks in advance
Use vaseline on the bearings and bushings plus the shaft were the basket and sprocket combo hook on too, otherwise nothing else needs to be lubed up just those things, after the race clean the clutch with brake cleaner then re lube bearings and sprocket bushings
 
I realize I have been over lubing the chain on our flatkart (runs on dirt). I am going to pull it off and try cleaning it. Any suggestion on how to properly do this? It is a Bully 2 disc 6 spring. Thanks in advance
For the chain i suggest Tri - Flow foaming spray grease it works awesome for me, lube it pretty good so the rear end gear doesn't wear that bad from the dirt and usually I just wash my chain with simple green or dawn & water, never soak it because it will rust out in there, next I dry it off with a clean towel then lube it up so it doesn't rust and obviously so it can be lubed before i put it back on the rearend, i suggest lubing the rearend gear too because the little bits of oil with help it wear less
 
Use vaseline on the bearings and bushings plus the shaft were the basket and sprocket combo hook on too, otherwise nothing else needs to be lubed up just those things, after the race clean the clutch with brake cleaner then re lube bearings and sprocket bushings
Don't use brake cleaner on a bully, acetone only. Only the sprocket bearing should be lubed.
 
My chain self adjusts the amount of lube it requires and conveniently collects any additional lubrication on the floor pan under the chain. my chassis manufacture is that good!! kind is that?
My chain self adjusts the amount of lube it requires and conveniently collects any additional lubrication on the floor pan under the chain. my chassis manufacture is that good!!
What kind is that?
 
I spray my chain with WD-40 and wipe it dry. Then it gets a coat of chain wax. No water ever! Also no brake parts cleaner.
 
There are aerosol wax type chain lubes available for motorcycle chains that work great on kart drive chains too and don't sling chain lube at all. Had some left over from my last motorcycle and tried it out when we went kart racing and never looked back.
 
Interestingly I done some experiments with paraffin wax in a crock pot and then put a rotisserie with an old driver on it over the crock pot and let the chain run through the wax while it's hot.

Just putting the chain in the crock pot works pretty well, all the outside stuff comes off and some of the stuff inside comes off.
Once I put the rotisserie and let the chain roll through the hot wax, you'd be VERY surprised at how much dirty stuff comes out before you wax it the first time. Then after the first time, how much dirty wax comes out of the chain. Make sure the chain is high enough that the chain doesn't rub the bottom of the pan, because the dirt will settle to the bottom of the hot wax. All the clean wax will stay up towards the top. Then you can scrape the dirty wax off and throw it away.
Let it roll 30 minutes or until I remember to grab it and hang it above and let it drip dry, then break it all loose and put it back on. Even letting the chain drip after it's nice and hot there will still be some wax that slings off when it's hot onto the floor pan, but it comes off fairly easy with a pressure washer.

I know some have raised concerns when I was originally testing this about the chain loosening up a bit once the wax inside the rollers gets tension or gets hot. I personally never had a problem with this because I ran the Chain Draggone system, so if it loosened up any it self adjusted for the most part. But, if I didn't run that, I'd just start the kart on the stand before practice and it should loosen up enough then adjust it, then it will be fine.

I had a spray wax that if I ran 2 day shows I'd spray a little on. But, I liked the rotisserie because it essentially cleaned and lubed it all in one step.
 
If oil was to ever get on the discs in my clutches for any reason, I replaced the discs with new. As to not having too much oil/lubrication on the chain to potentially cause a clutch issue, I’ll share my chain maintenance procedure that happens after every race, which includes disassembly and maintenance of all chassis components.

On Sunday/Monday after a race, start with soaking the chain in mineral spirits and then use a paint brush to further help scrub and push the dirt/oil out while in the mineral spirits bath. Remove from mineral spirits bath and use compressed air to blow the chain clean / dry.

Next, repeat the same procedure above but use denatured alcohol this round to soak and wash.

After allowing to completely dry, spray down chain with WD-40 to finish the cleaning job. Use compressed air once again to blow the chain clean and hang up to dry for at least 12 hrs.

Lastly, spray chain completely with Tri-Flow, wipe off excess lightly with paper/cloth towel, and hang up to drip dry till kart reassembled 1-2 days before race. No additional lubrication needed at the track.
 
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