Track Tac

best chassis for low bite track

Maybe a bit less cross or a bit less camber or something like that but mostly it's standard stuff.
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Totally agree with this -- I would add to this statement with: less left and raise the seat if you are needing more sidebite running without prep.
I'd still be on a softer chassis though that's less prep sensitive, (can't believe you recommended Icon over some other PRC products Todd - although if you hit it right, they are bad fast. :) )

I don't know if the OP (Michigan) is on a Burris tire rule or not, but that would be something to take into consideration as well. I wonder how much testing of new chassis before it's put into production is on Burris tires (or up north in general?) It seems that many of the newer karts are designed around higher bite tracks / Maxxis tires / high cross, etc with the goal in mind to free up the chassis and gain corner speed. I'll add one more thing: You can make any kart work -- some just take more effort than others, and there is definitely more speed in some designs than others.
 
We'll I am pretty up north here in Canada...
Running a 07 and 2010 prowler....on Burris, 11's , 22's and sometimes 33's.
Usually no prep and sometimes little prep...

As stated ,usually the adjustments are cross and camber and tire pressure...
If the track is very low bit cross around 63-65 good bit 67 and up.
Camber lowest is -2.5 highest -3.25.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Totally agree with this -- I would add to this statement with: less left and raise the seat if you are needing more sidebite running without prep.
I'd still be on a softer chassis though that's less prep sensitive, (can't believe you recommended Icon over some other PRC products Todd - although if you hit it right, they are bad fast. :) )

I don't know if the OP (Michigan) is on a Burris tire rule or not, but that would be something to take into consideration as well. I wonder how much testing of new chassis before it's put into production is on Burris tires (or up north in general?) It seems that many of the newer karts are designed around higher bite tracks / Maxxis tires / high cross, etc with the goal in mind to free up the chassis and gain corner speed. I'll add one more thing: You can make any kart work -- some just take more effort than others, and there is definitely more speed in some designs than others.
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Brian,'we are on yellow Vegas...
 
i some ways, i have to disagree. the chassis are not made for the type of track. it would be impossible to create a specific chassis for asphalt or dirt (road courses are a different breed altogether). but, with that said....you have to work with BOTH the tires and the chassis to achieve good speed and consistent lap times on low, medium or high bite tracks...including aspahlt.

what needs to happen is the tire folks need to take a step back and design two or three tires that will work well with any track type. Instead of having blues, pinks, els, red, yellow, white, no color, thin rubber, thick rubber....and all the assorted kinds that are out there. you can spend a fortune on tires and not win once single heat race, much less a feature if you don't work with a certain kind of chemical that is compatible with the type of tire your using that will grip a low, medium or high grip track. what i'd like to see is tracks outlaw prepping at the track. do it at home, but when you get to the track, you race on the tires that you qualify with and you can't mess with them after that. but, i guess that will never happen!

i just think that too much is being wasted on a chemical that will harm you or the environment....

ok, rant over!! the best chassis that you can get to help is the one you already own. work with tire, gear and set-up of your current chassis. that will get you headed in the right direction. if you can't adjust the one that you have to work, then what makes you think that a new chassis will be any different? get with other racers and kart guru's around where your at and listen, learn and apply. start with the basics of chassis set-up......get to the scales and get your percentages right. then start working on tires and what you can do to get them hooking up. might be something as simple as cleaning them with a degreaser and then prepping them to start things off. or it might be that you need to change from your current brand to something else....but all in all....don't buy another chassis without exploring what your current chassis can do.
 
Whatever chassis ya got put a balanced set-up in it, meaning Cross same as Left, nose weight is more chassis specific ya need proper nose, keep left less than normal say if your normally 56% left set-up 54% left, 54% cross then look at Individual wheel weights and keep Lt Fr and RR with in 2 to 5lbs of each other, After that if ya still need more Sidebite Raise VCG.

You'll have a Chassis better suited for No Bite.
 
some chassis are very much designed for certain track types. I'm building 2 chassis myself this winter one will be a low bite and one will be for a high bite. i'm doing this because I race 2 tracks that are literally night and day so one is very dusty and slick and the other gets very tacky once the sun goes down. i'm in the same situation as Fastmike where I can't prep and i'm required treads. so different wall thickness and waist widths will be used on them.
 
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