I'd get off that tire to start. What is the tire rule there?track in located in the high desert ( Wheel2Wheel Raceway, Victorville CA). I'd call in more of a sandy clay than anything. It's set up for speedway bikes and stay tacky/wet all night. My driver is 80lbs and the kart enters well, but seems to come off the corners loose, like it lacks forward bite, grip or side bite in the RR. It seems lazy in transfering the LS to the RS, or doesn't at all. Seat is mounted hight and toward the engine best I can. Cross is anywhere between 52-57%, left side is 53% and nose is 47%. We are running a Duro treaded tire, punches around 50-60 depending on the temp/sun. No prep allowed. you can youtube it for an idea of conditions, size,etc..
I agree, I would typically hesitate to go to a newer chassis, but think there are few options that are soft enough. Alot of guys run the older, mid steel chassis or euro that flexes more, but personally I want something I can run all over the west coast and be competitive as well.
I am asking do you have to run the duro tire or can you run a burris or hoosier is there a duro rule?I appreciate everyone's opinion on what track I run, or tire, etc... but it's their rules and the only track within 3 hrs of me, so it is what it is. My original question still stands. Thanks for those who provided meaningful input.
I appreciate everyone's opinion on what track I run, or tire, etc... but it's their rules and the only track within 3 hrs of me, so it is what it is. My original question still stands. Thanks for those who provided meaningful input.
I'm afraid you'll be very hard pressed to find anything like that. There are few people in the country that have a Chassis Dyno, and the few that do aren't going to let that info out.Does anyone have any pictures or video that show chassis’s flexing. What does the movement look like? Where are the bends etc?
I’ve never driven one of these things. Just wondering how the flex occurs.I'm afraid you'll be very hard pressed to find anything like that. There are few people in the country that have a Chassis Dyno, and the few that do aren't going to let that info out.
On track video of a chassis moving does very little for analysis.
Most can't feel the flex no matter how little or how much there is. The biggest sensation is the load rolling up on the rf corner/lack there of and then releasing. Depending on chassis brand/make this is either a lot, a little, or some middle ground depending on the track surface. On a high bite track you'd feel this on almost any kart. On a low bite track some you'll feel, others you won't at all. The LR corner will be flexing the most, just push down on the tail on the grid and you'll see most chassis' give and sag, with the opposite when the driver is in the seat due to the weight being in front of the bend on the lr. Add that to the rolling up on the right front feeling and releasing and that axis on the kart will be most of what someone will be able to describe. Most people when they go from one chassis to another will describe how RF positive it is or isn't compared to the other.I’ve never driven one of these things. Just wondering how the flex occurs.
I think I could better understand the big picture better if I understood everything LR tire
How much flex does the axle control? I assume the thin wall axles allow more flex while the thick ones prevent it.Most can't feel the flex no matter how little or how much there is. The biggest sensation is the load rolling up on the rf corner/lack there of and then releasing. Depending on chassis brand/make this is either a lot, a little, or some middle ground depending on the track surface. On a high bite track you'd feel this on almost any kart. On a low bite track some you'll feel, others you won't at all. The LR corner will be flexing the most, just push down on the tail on the grid and you'll see most chassis' give and sag, with the opposite when the driver is in the seat due to the weight being in front of the bend on the lr. Add that to the rolling up on the right front feeling and releasing and that axis on the kart will be most of what someone will be able to describe. Most people when they go from one chassis to another will describe how RF positive it is or isn't compared to the other.
In PRC's release video for the deuce they showed a graphic modeling of the chassis flexing. Similar idea for almost every kart to a varying degree. The waist and lr are doing most/all of the flexing. The rest is just the feeling of load being transferred to a tire and back.
You should make the haul up to Chowchilla Jan 14&15 and Jan 28&29 great track lots of competition and great kart counts they've had 16 jr's at most races this season. There's been a bunch of guys coming up from down south and they all love it, it's worth the trip.I appreciate everyone's opinion on what track I run, or tire, etc... but it's their rules and the only track within 3 hrs of me, so it is what it is. My original question still stands. Thanks for those who provided meaningful input.
I ran that track years ago with a Millenium Tempest with the Socal Oval guys. If they are still prepping the track like they used to, a soft chassis is not going to work, but setting the kart up with more cross and a bit more left weight is going to help you. Later into the evening I would run higher air pressure and also start pulling the LR hub in/out and experiment with the chassis. With those treaded tires, air pressure will be your friend. That track does bite up, a lot and found turning a bit more rpm into the corner will help you as well on exit. Start there and let me know, that track was super fun when I ran it. Another area might be driver and their entry/ exit. I assume you are loose coming out of turn 4, as 1/2 was pretty mellow.track in located in the high desert ( Wheel2Wheel Raceway, Victorville CA). I'd call in more of a sandy clay than anything. It's set up for speedway bikes and stay tacky/wet all night. My driver is 80lbs and the kart enters well, but seems to come off the corners loose, like it lacks forward bite, grip or side bite in the RR. It seems lazy in transfering the LS to the RS, or doesn't at all. Seat is mounted hight and toward the engine best I can. Cross is anywhere between 52-57%, left side is 53% and nose is 47%. We are running a Duro treaded tire, punches around 50-60 depending on the temp/sun. No prep allowed. you can youtube it for an idea of conditions, size,etc..
I agree, I would typically hesitate to go to a newer chassis, but think there are few options that are soft enough. Alot of guys run the older, mid steel chassis or euro that flexes more, but personally I want something I can run all over the west coast and be competitive as well.
We have Chowchilla on our radar, unfortunately the weekends just didn't line up for us this winter, but we will get up there!You should make the haul up to Chowchilla Jan 14&15 and Jan 28&29 great track lots of competition and great kart counts they've had 16 jr's at most races this season. There's been a bunch of guys coming up from down south and they all love it, it's worth the trip.
Didn’t read the whole thread. Any modern kart you can get support for should “flex well.” If you’re looking for bite I would consider increasing caster to transfer more weight to the RF. You’ll need to adjust caster on both sides to maintain an appropriate split. Also be sure the kart is “free” and can flex appropriately. Nerf bars and bumps should move up and down with your hand with minimal force. Bolts attaching the seat to the seat struts should be sure but not over tightened. Motor mount should be positioned at least 2-3 finger widths in front of where the cross rail weld is on right side of the chassis. Chain should have ~1in if play.We mostly run on a very wet/heavy 1/6th dirt track (we go through tearoffs) and looking for something that can transfer weight well. Driver is 85 lbs and current kart (06 Phenom) just doesn't seem to work well enough. Opinions on new or newer chassis out there that work well in this condition? Was leaning towards a thin tube Scythe.
Thanks, Matt