Best oil for clones ?

Eastman 2380 Turbine oil. Great stuff, run it straight up and you do not need to change it but once a night even running multiple classes. You can strain it and reuse it . Oil will resist breaking down up to 900 degrees and has outstanding film strength. If it's good enough for $100,000 engines it should be fine for clones. It also makes a lot of power.

Ran an unrestricted clone 3 weekends, two classes. That's 60 laps practice, 90 heat race laps and 120 main event laps without changing. Engine had no wear, strained the oil and ran it 3 more weeks with almost no wear. Always ran 14oz.
 
Eastman 2380 Turbine oil. Great stuff, run it straight up and you do not need to change it but once a night even running multiple classes. You can strain it and reuse it . Oil will resist breaking down up to 900 degrees and has outstanding film strength. If it's good enough for $100,000 engines it should be fine for clones. It also makes a lot of power.

Ran an unrestricted clone 3 weekends, two classes. That's 60 laps practice, 90 heat race laps and 120 main event laps without changing. Engine had no wear, strained the oil and ran it 3 more weeks with almost no wear. Always ran 14oz.
PAG or PAO?
 
Eastman 2380 Turbine oil. Great stuff, run it straight up and you do not need to change it but once a night even running multiple classes. You can strain it and reuse it . Oil will resist breaking down up to 900 degrees and has outstanding film strength. If it's good enough for $100,000 engines it should be fine for clones. It also makes a lot of power.

Ran an unrestricted clone 3 weekends, two classes. That's 60 laps practice, 90 heat race laps and 120 main event laps without changing. Engine had no wear, strained the oil and ran it 3 more weeks with almost no wear. Always ran 14oz.
Now you can share what kind of performance additive you were adding to it
 
Now you can share what kind of performance additive you were adding to it
Nothing. Ran it straight up, but it may not pass a burn test. Haven't seen anyone do a burn test in years. It seems that the general consensus is that you can't burn test oil in a gasoline fueled engine and if you try mayhem will ensue. Total BS, but hey if you repeat the lie enough it soon becomes fact.
 
I like this stuff
 

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It's not cheap but, this is what we USE and SELL!

PIRATE Racing Engines
MAXX Traction Tire Technologies LLC
Kid Mode Karting Engine Oil
 

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I did not mean for my verbage to be misconstrued LOL.... Besides very little practice time and only one heat race before it was called for rain it was very impressive . I'm confident we will get our points at the next FAOS on the 17th.
Where is the FOAS race on the 17th? We are supposed to run dirt that weekend but depending on weather might end up running pavement. We will most likely end up at Ambassador tonight.
 
I would avoid using any oils designed for automotive applications. They are designed for a pump and filter based system, not a splash dipper system.Agreed that you must use a synthetic, but there are many types of synthetics and you should have some idea of the strengths and weaknesses of the ones you choose.
not really.
 
Here's my Two cents .
The splash oil system has been around for years . Originally it was a non detergent 30-40 weight oil .
Oil was improved with the detergent capabilities which helped carry the debris and sludge in suspension .
Anyone who repaired an engine in the 60-early seventies or earlier know how the sludge laid in the nooks and crannies .
Oil again improved with synthetic and anti foaming .
The anti foam is the key too splash oiling . Though it surely gets foamed up .
The lubricity of the oil and anti foaming characteristics changed the game .
 
I will just ask a question back at you.. Why is an oil designed for automotive applications not OK to use in a splash lube application?
Because it foams up and causes various issues. Automotive based systems are designed to go through a pump and a filter which keeps any foaming from making its way into areas needing lubrication. Those of us who were around about 15 years ago when Valvoline tried to make a 4-cycle karting oil learned of this the hard way.
 
Because it foams up and causes various issues. Automotive based systems are designed to go through a pump and a filter which keeps any foaming from making its way into areas needing lubrication. Those of us who were around about 15 years ago when Valvoline tried to make a 4-cycle karting oil learned of this the hard way.
An automotive engine will "foam" oil as bad as, if not worse than a splash lube system. The oil pump in a pressure lubed dry sump system can make the problem worse, not better, by increasing the amount of air trapped in the oil. A filter will not remove air from the oil. An oil pump will not remove air from the oil. Pressure lubed engines are not immune to foamed oil. The Valvoline kart racing oil was/ is not an automotive based oil. Oil foaming in a splash lubed engine is often caused by too high of a viscosity. There is really nothing about a karting specific oil when it comes to anti foaming properties that isn't already present in almost any quality oil designed for pressure lubricated engines that operate at very high RPM. A 10,500 RPM pro stock drag engine with a dry sump will foam oil far worse than almost any kart engine. My oil does not have foaming problems. My engine oil formula differs slightly from what a pro stock drag or NASCAR engine would use, and those differences have nothing to do with foam control. Several good kart racing oils are on the market.
 
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Here's my Two cents .
The splash oil system has been around for years . Originally it was a non detergent 30-40 weight oil .
Oil was improved with the detergent capabilities which helped carry the debris and sludge in suspension .
Anyone who repaired an engine in the 60-early seventies or earlier know how the sludge laid in the nooks and crannies .
Oil again improved with synthetic and anti foaming .
The anti foam is the key too splash oiling . Though it surely gets foamed up .
The lubricity of the oil and anti foaming characteristics changed the game .
The additives in oil that help it keep the debris and sludge in suspension can actually make the foaming worse.
 
I have gotten my information from the chemical engineers who designed some of the current 4-cycle oils on the market. They are much smarter than I, bit what they said has matched my experiences. I just try and relay their information. You can go ahead and use the quarts of oil you find at Walmart. Whatever works for you and good luck.
 
I have gotten my information from the chemical engineers who designed some of the current 4-cycle oils on the market. They are much smarter than I, bit what they said has matched my experiences. I just try and relay their information. You can go ahead and use the quarts of oil you find at Walmart. Whatever works for you and good luck.
Who mentioned anything about Walmart? I didn't. But, i will say this again, almost any good racing oil intended for high RPM racing applications in a pressure lubricated engine will not "foam" in a kart engine provided that the viscosity is low enough. Just because an oil is "automotive based" does not automatically mean that it will foam. I agree that buying off the shelf street car oil designed for extended drain intervals and/or oil with too high of a viscosity will often foam. Quality racing oils designed for automotive type pressure lubricated engines for the most part already have just about everything that can be done to an oil to prevent foaming. There is really nothing about a karting specific oil when it comes to anti foaming properties that isn't already present in almost any quality racing oil designed for pressure lubricated engines that operate at very high RPM. At the engineering firm I worked for we performed contract automation work with several companies that specialize in the production of "boutique" lubricants for both racing and industrial applications. It was through some of those contacts in the lubricant industry that got me started down the kart racing oil rabbit hole.
 
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