Best oil for clones ?

I took a motor to a dyno shop up in Ohio a few weeks ago. While we were there the engine builder was pulling a motor apart he was about to refresh. The motor in side was spotless. He was using Mobile One 0w16 full synthetic. I see no reason to spend all that extra money when an off the shelf Autozone supplied oil will work just fine.
 
I have gotten my information from the chemical engineers who designed some of the current 4-cycle oils on the market. They are much smarter than I, bit what they said has matched my experiences. I just try and relay their information. You can go ahead and use the quarts of oil you find at Walmart. Whatever works for you and good luck.
Alot of people run the oil of there choice . Have u ever seen someone say there own oil was below average ? I have spent hours on the dyno with clones ,with different oils . You will be surprised what over the counter car oil performs great in a clone . And it also keeps the engines clean inside .
 
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In my gas engines I have always used 5w20 oil off the shelf from mass retailers. Never ever a problem. I don't pretend my 99 dollar Chinese engine is a Top Fuel race engine requiring special oils. It is a rototiller motor. We do well, run fast, and never have oiling problems.
 
A little off topic sorry
There are Chinese clones with an oil pump in Russia. Cast iron connecting rod with sleeve bearings, the pump supplies oil through the crankshaft to the connecting rod. There is also an oil filter.
 

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If you go on Summits website you can use their filters to cherry pick what you want in oil.
For instance you can select full synthetic, 5w-20, ZDDP enhanced and come up with several
brands of oils that should work well in a splash oiled air cooled engine.

I've used Joe Gibbs Racings "Driven" brand and the Brad Penn "Penngrade" oils in my automotive
race engines and like both.

I'm doing a mobility trike for myself for outdoor event usage, which will use a Tillotson Wildcat 223
for power. I pulled this engine down and made sure all the wear areas had lube before first start.
I used a 30w ZDDP enhanced break in oil for a few low throttle heat cycles, then I pulled it down for
inspection. Removed governor, including drive gear from crank. Installed 22lb valve springs, .010
head gasket, head studs, new coil, (factory ones are limited to 4K RPM's) and a timing key. Another
couple heat cycles with the 30w, then I will drain and fill with whatever premium brand synthetic
5w20 ZDDP enhanced oil that I can obtain locally.
 
^^X2 Agreed WHY??? Would anyone use 0W-?? oil Must have Read it's Good Scremr Tell your son to run 0W-5W in his Big Block I heard its Good........LOL Dave
a lot and i mean a lot of top engine builders are using the Joe Gibbs KRT oil and its 0w20.
 
Some very interesting X vs Y vs Z tests on this guys YouTube channel - many containing oil tests. Here is one, with a lot of info on many major brands at the end. The link:
 
Some very interesting X vs Y vs Z tests on this guys YouTube channel - many containing oil tests. Here is one, with a lot of info on many major brands at the end. The link:
Project Farm has a bunch of good tests over a bunch if different oils and products and stuff like that. I watch his videos all the time. You can trust his results.
 
I took a motor to a dyno shop up in Ohio a few weeks ago. While we were there the engine builder was pulling a motor apart he was about to refresh. The motor in side was spotless. He was using Mobile One 0w16 full synthetic. I see no reason to spend all that extra money when an off the shelf Autozone supplied oil will work just fine.
I wouldn't put any of the new Mobil 1 oils in my pushmower! The quality and additives in their oils over the last 5-10 years has declined so badly it isn't funny. Total garbage oil!
 
A little off topic sorry
There are Chinese clones with an oil pump in Russia. Cast iron connecting rod with sleeve bearings, the pump supplies oil through the crankshaft to the connecting rod. There is also an oil filter.
3.8hp direct injected diesel?
 
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