Best practices for Rebuilding Bully

Emc2

Emc2

Member
What’s the best parts to use when rebuilding a Bully? Should you use a thicker floater with the new friction disk and use more shims to get your gap? Or should you use a thinner floater and less shims? Does this make any difference? As your friction disk wear is it better to remove shims or use a thicker floater disk? Does any of this really matter as long as you maintain your clutch or is there a performance advantage? Maybe a longer life of the other parts?
Also what is the best way to get your end play gap? Do you get different thickness washers for the inside of the basket or the washer on the outside by the drive gear teeth?
 
The thicker floater has less chance of warping .
Using the shims to adjut is easy , you could change floaters . Though that introduces a new variable in that its not mated or bedded in with the disc's .
End play i would do outside the drum .
 
flattop1 said:
The thicker floater has less chance of warping .
Using the shims to adjut is easy , you could change floaters . Though that introduces a new variable in that its not mated or bedded in with the disc's .
End play i would do outside the drum .
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Personally, I try to use as little shims as possible. I’m not a fan of the activator plate being propped up with shims, as it will have a tendency to make the pressure plate not sit parallel to the drive hub.

Of course, you don’t always have that option, but I try to use no more then .030 worth of shims.

The thicker the drive hub and pressure plate are, the less likely you are to be able to use thicker floaters. I try to do everything with an .075 floater. At the end of the day, air gap is air gap.

Of course, I don’t reccomend installing new discs or floaters unless you have the plates resurfaced. The pressure plate warps more then the drive hub, and installing new parts without a fresh grind is a lot like painting over rust.
 
Like JP, I prefer to use as few of shims as needed to get the air gap correct.
I like thicker floater discs as well, and I prefer to re-use friction discs that were bedded in previously. (Our customers appreciate this too as they aren't buying new friction discs at every rebuild.) Just be certain to place them in the exact orientation (top/bottom) that they were removed from the clutch.
I wish that all the plates were thicker when new. Prevents warping and gives more material to machine later, yielding more rebuilds.

As far as endplay-- you can achieve it either with inside washers being different thicknesses (.015" & .030") or with the outside washer.
Be sure to check this every time you change drivers, as different brands of drivers (even though they fit the Bully pattern) measure differently.
Also check the wear pattern on your basket as moving the shims (inside & out) changes where the basket sits in relation to the friction disc tabs.
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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
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