Best way to check and set toe

I've got a caster/camber gauge but no toe plates or lasers. Is measuring from inside rim side-to-side a sufficient way of checking toe? I'm in the process of building back up my tools for karting, and want to know when I get in a position to buy an alignment product is it worth the money for a laser system or will using some kart toe plates be just as reliable?
 
A 4 ft level used as a straight edge, a block of 2x4 about 10" long, a tape measure, and another set of hands to hold the rear while you do the front is all you need if you don't want to spend the xtra funds for a lazer.
 
4' level and a tape measure and you're good to go.
The extra block of wood will make it easier for sure.
I've wrenched on plenty of winning race cars that were aligned this way, or a piece of piano wire (same method.)
I think we've all gotten spoiled with the Accu-toe advanced and similar laser alignment systems. They sure are cool to have, (and certainly make life easier to align the kart by yourself)...but I have yet to see it be more accurate than the 4' level method. :)


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Can someone explain to me how to do this with a 4" level? I'm just not picturing it and my brain isn't working this late in the afternoon!! We kissed the wall this past weekend and I want to check toe.
 
Can someone explain to me how to do this with a 4" level? I'm just not picturing it and my brain isn't working this late in the afternoon!! We kissed the wall this past weekend and I want to check toe.
Do right side first hold the block of 2 x 4 across the rear wheel pinch 4 ft level across 2 x 4 extending to front wheel, take a measurement at rear side of wheel to level and then another at front side of wheel make them the same to be squared, move to left side and repeat however to toe out front side of wheel will measure less the amount of toe you want, just make sure you do not pinch 2 x 4 across any dings in the wheel and do not take any measurements where there are dings in the wheels. The 2 x 4 block is needed so the level ( straight edge ) does not hit the body.
 
Old thread I know.
Can anybody show a pic or something? I am just not understanding how you guys are doing this. I put new tie rods on. I need to check toe without spending $500 on a tool if I can.
 
I have never seen a 2x4 that is anywhere near straight enough to do as suggested. A better idea is to use thread or thin string. Perhaps a drywall square. Regardless of the method you choose be certain that the steering wheel is solidly anchored as you go from side to side.
 
Old thread I know.
Can anybody show a pic or something? I am just not understanding how you guys are doing this. I put new tie rods on. I need to check toe without spending $500 on a tool if I can.
You are squaring your front wheels off of a fixed (straight) point which happens to be your rear wheel in this case. To get the level past the body you will need to hold a couple 2x4 blocks against the right rear wheel and then hold the 4 foot level against that. From there you need to measure the lip of the RF wheel at the front of the wheel and the rear of the wheel (on the outside) and make sure the distance from the wheel to level is the same (this will give you 0" toe in/out). From there, repeat on the left side but your measurement on the front of the left front wheel is going to be 1/16" less to the level than the rear of the wheel (1/16" toed out). Take a 4 or 5lb chunk of lead, put a tip tie through the hole and hang it on one side of the steering wheel to take out the slop (use the same side each time you set toe).
 
Blocking is whats needed . Use the minimum width needed . I like 1/2" all cut from the same peice . Also taped tight too the level helps .
Accuracy of any method is dependent on the individual.
 
I've got a caster/camber gauge but no toe plates or lasers. Is measuring from inside rim side-to-side a sufficient way of checking toe? I'm in the process of building back up my tools for karting, and want to know when I get in a position to buy an alignment product is it worth the money for a laser system or will using some kart toe plates be just as reliable?
Yes . Key word sufficient .
Is it the best there's lots of opinions on that .
 
You are squaring your front wheels off of a fixed (straight) point which happens to be your rear wheel in this case. To get the level past the body you will need to hold a couple 2x4 blocks against the right rear wheel and then hold the 4 foot level against that. From there you need to measure the lip of the RF wheel at the front of the wheel and the rear of the wheel (on the outside) and make sure the distance from the wheel to level is the same (this will give you 0" toe in/out). From there, repeat on the left side but your measurement on the front of the left front wheel is going to be 1/16" less to the level than the rear of the wheel (1/16" toed out). Take a 4 or 5lb chunk of lead, put a tip tie through the hole and hang it on one side of the steering wheel to take out the slop (use the same side each time you set toe).
Wouldn’t the front be a 1/16 more if you want it toed out.
 
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