bleeding brakes

1stPlaceMotorsports said:
Do yourself a favor and buy a brake bleed kit. Comes with a adapter that threads into your master cylinder and pushes fluid back thru the caliper. One person job.
Click to expand...

This is by far the easiest way and once you buy the kit it will lady as long as you race, works with any kart also. Sure as heck beats sitting around waiting on gravity to do it, especially when your in a hurry or pressed for time like at the track.
 
Jf's method is simply opening the bleeders and filling the reservoir.

Then do something else while the fluid creeps into the lines and calipers. Shut bleeders when you see fluid leaking out.

As stated, can be time consuming.
I prefer a modified version of this.
With the front raised 6-12 inches, full reservoir, cap off. Bleeders closed.
Depress brake pedal slightly. You will see a bubble in reservior. Release pedal, and listen. You will hear air bubbling in the reservior. Wait till bubbling stops.
Repeat until you hear no more bubbles.
Check by full depressing pedal. If spongy, but no more bubbles, depress pedal and crack bleeders one at a time. Closed bleeder before releasing pedal.
If no air comes out, check to see there are no other high points in the line.
Repeat the first part.

This works on karts, sport mods, and late models.
 
You do not bleed like a car, open bleed, press peddle, close bleed, release peddle, repeat. Filling reservoir as needed?

I am assuming the kit is by far the best.
 
Surveyor said:
You do not bleed like a car, open bleed, press peddle, close bleed, release peddle, repeat. Filling reservoir as needed?

I am assuming the kit is by far the best.
Click to expand...
This is hit or miss.

I have had the most sucess using the method I described, on any vehicle.

I think fully pressurizing the system causes the fluid to aerate. The bubbles are now part of the fluid throughout the system. Only time will let them separate.

The method I described lets the air rise to the top and disperse thru the master cylinder. If you have time, the air will work it's way out by itself after the initial filling, unless it is trapped in a high pocket.

The kit is just a one way valve, similar to opening and closing bleeder.
 
The problem I feel with doing the car method is not enough volume . By the time you close the valve air has intruded.
95 shaw might have it as well .
No doubt its hit and miss.
 
95 shaw said:
Jf's method is simply opening the bleeders and filling the reservoir.

Then do something else while the fluid creeps into the lines and calipers. Shut bleeders when you see fluid leaking out.

As stated, can be time consuming.
I prefer a modified version of this.
With the front raised 6-12 inches, full reservoir, cap off. Bleeders closed.
Depress brake pedal slightly. You will see a bubble in reservior. Release pedal, and listen. You will hear air bubbling in the reservior. Wait till bubbling stops.
Repeat until you hear no more bubbles.
Check by full depressing pedal. If spongy, but no more bubbles, depress pedal and crack bleeders one at a time. Closed bleeder before releasing pedal.
If no air comes out, check to see there are no other high points in the line.
Repeat the first part.

This works on karts, sport mods, and late models.
Click to expand...
when you say cap off, do you mean leave the cap off, or cap it off.
 
Ratistiss said:
Can you explain a little more, need to bleed my son's brakes and it's my first time.
Click to expand...
Recommend inspecting brake lines and fittings before bleeding. The only time I’ve had a problem with brakes on the kart there was a pin sized hole in one of the lines.
 
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