Briggs Animal throttle quick connect kit

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Deleted member 21174

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I got a Briggs Animal throttle quick connect kit and have it all set up. The set screws on the clevis are tiny and I am wondering how they perform over time? Have folks found these kits worth it? When we just did the one big long cable/housing that seems to work well too.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Yes they been in use for years .
Now keeping track of the Allen wrench is another thing .
I would suggest getting another quick connect kit as a spare.
 
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Deleted member 21174

Guest
Is it recommended to loctite (or even solder) the quick connect? Should there be a screw from each side to make a throttle cable sandwich? I only have one motor so maybe a quick connect is overkill (before I had this when I pulled the motor I would just take the top of the carb off and put it in a zip loc baggie in the seat, and another bag on top of the carb to keep dirt out).
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
No do not solder it .
Soldering the cable improves the connection and makes slight adjustments easier.
I have had some with two set screws , some with one .
Even used a small cap screw to replace the set screw though always worried about that hanging the throttle.
Not taking the slide out of the carb is probably the biggest advantage , as that could lead to multiple issues .
 
I've never seen an issue with them. We've used them personally, and have sold hundreds if not thousand+, through our shop.
Be sure that the cable goes all the way into the clevis though -- Sometimes there's a burr of aluminum inside that can cause the cable to fray or stick and not allow it past the set screw hole - that could cause a problem. Cleaning out the hole for the cable to fit nicely with a small drill bit would be worth the time and effort.
No solder or larger bolt needed.


-----
?Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
30 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 

XXX#40

2A supporter
I've never seen an issue with them. We've used them personally, and have sold hundreds if not thousand+, through our shop.
Be sure that the cable goes all the way into the clevis though -- Sometimes there's a burr of aluminum inside that can cause the cable to fray or stick and not allow it past the set screw hole - that could cause a problem. Cleaning out the hole for the cable to fit nicely with a small drill bit would be worth the time and effort.
No solder or larger bolt needed.


-----
?Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
30 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
until you strip the little set screw.
Found it best to replace them first thing
 

Outrider

Member
While I've never had a problem stripping them out in 16 years of using them, going larger is not a bad idea if you have the skills and tools. My warning echoes flattop1's; find a place to store the Allen wrench so that it doesn't disappear.​
 

95 shaw

Premium User
I just replaced the toolbox I've been using for the last 15 years.
Found 4 allen wrenches for this in the cleamout.

The problem i've had is stripping the socket when removing.
 
I spray painted the the allen wrenches bright orange and keep them in a magnet dish in the top of my toolbox. Helps them stand out and hopefully not get lost.
 
until you strip the little set screw.
Found it best to replace them first thing
How tight are you wrenching on that little allen wrench, Jamie?
It simply pinches the cable, it doesn't need cranked down on.

So yea, if you (or anyone) has a tendency to over-tighten minute screws that go into aluminum, then just maybe you ought to use a larger set screw / bolt before you start. :)
 

XXX#40

2A supporter
How tight are you wrenching on that little allen wrench, Jamie?
It simply pinches the cable, it doesn't need cranked down on.

So yea, if you (or anyone) has a tendency to over-tighten minute screws that go into aluminum, then just maybe you ought to use a larger set screw / bolt before you start. :)
We swapped engines 4 times a weekend, and that little set screw would come loose too often.
After dealing with plenty of those little set screws in the RC world, i knew to change them out
 
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Deleted member 21174

Guest
The set screws crush the cable, but aren't really permanent either (unless you gorilla glue them in maybe). I only have one engine so for right now I'm going to go back to one long cable in one long housing. There are lightweight cable grippers used to hang artwork etc. that grip but don't damage the cable (even these may be too heavy though). Maybe something like that or some kind of small collet would work better and allow adjustments without chewing up the cable?
 
Why would you need to move the cable with the set screw? When you make up your cable from one engine to another, you make them up to length. You should not need to loosen and move the cable when changing engines. You simply use the quick disconnect -- ie that's why it's called "Kwik Link."
 

XXX#40

2A supporter
Why would you need to move the cable with the set screw? When you make up your cable from one engine to another, you make them up to length. You should not need to loosen and move the cable when changing engines. You simply use the quick disconnect -- ie that's why it's called "Kwik Link."
The set screws come loose on their own, if you dont ever change engines no worries, but when you change engines for multiple classes and 1 kart those set screws work loose themselves
 
I have no idea what you are talking about, Jamie.
We have run multiple classes, multiple engines, etc (especially on the champ karts.)
I've never had a set screw come loose on it's own. Are we talking about the same throttle linkage system?
5295

The little set screws simply flatten out the cable so that it won't fit back through the hole on it's own. Just run it down snug.
If you loosen the set screw and try to adjust the cable that way, chances are that you won't get the cable back in right once the spiral windings of the cable are flattened out.
The nice thing about this system is that you can change motors without having to move the cable and set screw. Set it and forget it.
Most Euro and sprint chassis are set-up to use a single cable from the pedal to the carb.
That's alright too, but then you deal with some cable stretch (especially with some of the cheap import cable that's being sold) plus this linkage makes changing engines much simpler.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
My concern is taking the slide out for routine maintenance , and the introduction of dirt , trash and anything else that would befall the slide or carb bore .
When we were running all three engines, animal , clone , and flathead adjusting the Kwik link was a problem due too cable distortion .
adding a second kwik link on the cable helped cure that. then I made a short adapter piece to extend it for the clone .
I don't think I've had more then 2 issues with them and then it's my fault for not changing it out when it got bad.
 
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Deleted member 21174

Guest
I still like the idea of a quick connect cable gripper. The off the shelf grippers are probably too heavy for this application - but the install is much faster, they can be fine tuned, and they do not damage the cable. (To be fair we did run all last weekend on a kwik link and it was fine).

Or maybe since the kwik link adapters are so cheap it could just be swaged on to the end of the cable. There is so much vibration from the engine i just worry about the set screws backing out (we've lost set screws out of bearings and other places despite frequent re-tightening).
 

XXX#40

2A supporter
I have no idea what you are talking about, Jamie.
We have run multiple classes, multiple engines, etc (especially on the champ karts.)
I've never had a set screw come loose on it's own. Are we talking about the same throttle linkage system?
View attachment 5295
The little set screws simply flatten out the cable so that it won't fit back through the hole on it's own. Just run it down snug.
If you loosen the set screw and try to adjust the cable that way, chances are that you won't get the cable back in right once the spiral windings of the cable are flattened out.
The nice thing about this system is that you can change motors without having to move the cable and set screw. Set it and forget it.
Most Euro and sprint chassis are set-up to use a single cable from the pedal to the carb.
That's alright too, but then you deal with some cable stretch (especially with some of the cheap import cable that's being sold) plus this linkage makes changing engines much simpler.
That's the one, the set screw on the clevis came loose on 2 occasions, what caused it couldn't tell you.
I replaced them as I mentioned, didn't take 10 minutes to replace 3 of them, and never any more problems
 
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