Building a outlaw/RWYB animal. FH Crank???

T4Racing

New member
I am building a outlaw/RWYB animal. I want to know what would I have to do to put a flat head crank in it. I want to stroke the engine on a budget. What rod, and will a animal flywheel work or who'll that have to be changed? And timing? Thanks guys.
 
Its definently worth putting a stroker crank in it as its 0.233'' of added stroke. Just need to watch the flywheel side of the crank from what I was told.
 
It is definitely worth putting a .233 stroker crank in the motor. It is also a great idea to go ahead and put the billet steel crank in the motor also. Do not put a heat treated FH crank in the motor. It will last longer with the billet steel crank in it
 
I have a complete assembled animal bottom end with flat head crank, only the best parts used: block, crank, rod, piston, cam, lifters, 3 hp ARC billet adjustable flywheel and coil. The timing is already set just bolt your head and carb on and go racing. This motor is extremely powerful and won two of the four races i ran it in. Only ran 4 times since new and I will sale at a really good price. I am keeping my head carb and header that was on it. I need money for Christmas. I have videos of it running and can send pics if interested. Call during the day or text at night 865 274-0727.
Thanks,
Wes
 
I am attempting a animal stroker build and hope this would be a good place to blab about the troubles I am having. I just have the short block assembled so far. I used a new old stock Minnesota Clements 3.636 rod on a rapIII crank and a 1982P140 piston. The piston now has .125 (1/8") popup! I don't think the piston should be cut down as the underside has a relief cut under it for the rods pin area and doing so would put a hole in the center of it LOL. At least the top ring is still in the cylinder at TDC. The block I am using is a WF block that I don't think has be decked.This has me stepping back from the idea as I don't really like the short rod to begin with yet I thought I would try and utilize some of the parts I have laying around collecting dust. Is this what you guys have to deal with when stroking the animal or is my rod just wrong or does the WF have a different deck height?
 
i used the flathead crank in my animal build with no issues, and i had to mill the top of the piston ( wiesco ) good luck on your build...
 
I am attempting a animal stroker build and hope this would be a good place to blab about the troubles I am having. I just have the short block assembled so far. I used a new old stock Minnesota Clements 3.636 rod on a rapIII crank and a 1982P140 piston. The piston now has .125 (1/8") popup! I don't think the piston should be cut down as the underside has a relief cut under it for the rods pin area and doing so would put a hole in the center of it LOL. At least the top ring is still in the cylinder at TDC. The block I am using is a WF block that I don't think has be decked.This has me stepping back from the idea as I don't really like the short rod to begin with yet I thought I would try and utilize some of the parts I have laying around collecting dust. Is this what you guys have to deal with when stroking the animal or is my rod just wrong or does the WF have a different deck height?[/

I know .100 is okay that extra .025 could be tricky.
 
humm, I like the idea of plating the deck and resleeving in order to use a longer rod. Will a flathead rod with the dipper cut off work for that?
More off topic questions. Anyone with experience of having a Blockzillas cylinder Nikasil plated and or has built an OHV or OHC head for a Blockzilla. I have a long winter ahead of me.
I sure miss Bod's old forum as many of these things were covered well.
 
Freezeman,
If using a Blockzilla, try to obtain the Blockzilla 3 block.
It has the 3" bore, whereas the 1 and 2 have the stock 5hp raptor bore.
Only nikasil aluminum sleeves.



It is superior in other ways also.
 
Paul, I have to use up what I have. I know a bigger bore would make more,more easily yet I have the smaller block and see the only way to make it better would be to ohv or ohc it.
Then again maybe the thing just needs better fuel to make up the combustion chamber problems a flathead has IDK? I realize the advantages of going to the nikasil rout, yet I do all ready have the proper sleeve and a few over sized pistons to go with it. Didn't you play with fitting a three piece needle bearing crank and a one piece forged steel rod in these things?
 
Well, Been playing around with my stroked animal, It has .139 " pop up. I cut .110" into the head for the piston and will use a .062 aluminum head gasket. Clearanced a WF cam and the flathead crank for it and mocked it all up with a bit of clay on the piston and now I think it just might live if that rod stays together. The rod was strange it came with soft zinc plated washers under the rod bolts and the blind hole was shorter than the bolt and washer! I shortened the bolt and found some old horseman washers to use.
I am just blabbing along here so click away if you wish.
With an old animal head and this BZ1 block it was the first time that I have cut new/larger seat pockets. I did it on a Bridgeport mill and it was a choir indexing to pilots in new guides. Then I cut the seats with a Newway seat cutter. Things were looking good until I pressure tested....... I am not sure what to do at this point as it seems either me and or all my old equipment has to much run out to satisfy my wants and needs. I have been looking at a few new tools that would make it easier yet parting with the money it takes is hard to do. O well, I guess 3 out of 4 valves sealing is better than none. Good thing it's cold out as that gives me plenty of time to watch the needle move on the dial. Seven ate nine.
 
yes what u speak of above has been done (a flathead to OHV conversion ) , LOTS OF MAINTENANCE, I have had the pleasure of running a Honda G200 flathead conversion back in the early 90's and all i got to say is IT WAS A BEAST, I uploaded a vid to youtube a while back, I think clements sells the whole kit for a raptor.
 
JMO- scrap the animal idea. Sell it off, part it out, just get rid of it. For around $1000 you can go out shopping and find yourself a decent little 125 MX bike like a Honda CR or Kawi KX. Mount that motor on your kart and run it. For that matter, if you shop around, you could find a big 250 MX. With a 125 you would be looking at about 35-40 hp all day long on gas with virtually no maintenance throughout the season. AND maybe 200 to freshen it up in the winter. The 250 (2 strokes) are capable of 50-60 hp and will run all day long. Again with nearly 0 maintenance. Hardest part about racing one of those is the cajones to drive em.
 
That is so true about the caiones to drive it The CR Honda 250 cc or even YZ250 Yamaha 250 cc Once that pipe kicks in HOLD ON and just sell the bike frames and wheels on craiglist or ebay win, win,win
JMO- scrap the animal idea. Sell it off, part it out, just get rid of it. For around $1000 you can go out shopping and find yourself a decent little 125 MX bike like a Honda CR or Kawi KX. Mount that motor on your kart and run it. For that matter, if you shop around, you could find a big 250 MX. With a 125 you would be looking at about 35-40 hp all day long on gas with virtually no maintenance throughout the season. AND maybe 200 to freshen it up in the winter. The 250 (2 strokes) are capable of 50-60 hp and will run all day long. Again with nearly 0 maintenance. Hardest part about racing one of those is the cajones to drive em.
 
Wanting to drive something fast isn't the project I am working on. I all ready have winning Tag and shifter karts with swedetech stock and Mod Cr's also Pavesi's, Maxter and Rotax's that have wore out my old helmet neck and my tire budget while sprint racing.
I just like working on kart stuff and have had this stoker animal and Blockzilla project waiting on the shelf for the last ten years. I like turning my old boxes of parts into something that can be used. My stroker animal is now ready to be fired up and my Blockzilla is ready to be Nikasil plated. Next on the list is 8 two stroke cranks to rebuild. Any one know how to get a deal on rotax rod kits? Crazy money for a crank assembly and piston for the Rotax, Maxter and Pavesi stuff. I think I'll try to make a CR rod and Suzuki piston work instead.
 
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