Yes try the 8 degree key. Should be around 32 degrees as a good starting point.
Yes try the 8 degree key. Should be around 32 degrees as a good starting point.
Built predator only hits 7500rpm
- Thread starter Dollatee123
- Start date
racinnut15xm
Member
8 degree key on a newer arc will put him at 40. If it’s an older arc he will likely be fine. I don’t mean to be critical but he doesn’t seem to have any experience and should take this to someone local who can help him. The hemi with aftermarket valves has bad geometry. So many things have been brought up and he doesn’t know how to check or understand what half of them are.
Dollatee123
New member
I change my oil after every ride like 3 times a week
Dollatee123
New member
It’s a non hemi and no one around me knows anything
Dollatee123
New member
So should I go with the 8 degree? I got the flywheel lile 1 month ago so I’m guessing it’s the newer one.
Bob Evans
Administrator
That did occur to me. But it seemed that if it was worse, he wouldn't like how it ran and would go back to the stock key. He doesn't seem to have a problem going into the engine.
Some of the best lessons I learned with small engines were from making mistakes.
My go-to line on kart motors was that I knew 15 or 20 things that worked, and about a thousand things that didn't.
It's just not in my nature to discourage anyone from tinkering.One of my biggest gripes with OHV kart motors is the trend that seems to discourage folk from "doing it yourself".
Shucks, these motors only have four more moving parts than the flathead had, those being rocker arms and pushrods, and pushrods are just spacers.
You need a straight round bore, and a piston that is happy being in the cylinder.
Everything sealed up that should be sealed up.
Valve timing and ignition timing events happening at the correct time.
Correct clearances.
Minimum parasitic drag.
Good air/fuel mixture.
That's about it.
I agree. He needs to find out what degree flywheel he has.
J.H.Karting
Member
Following this thread. Im considering a 308 cam, but my question is what about the crank and rod, id like 308 cam but i dont want to bore the cylinder or increase the travel length of the piston, someone suggested .670 carb for air flow to along with internals
J.H.Karting
Member
Bob evans i like your attitude towards newbies, all we here is how expensive things are and all the secret knowledge, its almost like hunting for the ark of the convent, but yes i learn from tearing things apart and putting it back together, i have learned alot of folks want to go to nascar level from the first race, that dont happen, to be successful you have to accept the fact of failure, failure should never be considered losing, if your a dyi type guy and you finish in the middle somewhere that is a successful night at the racesThat did occur to me. But it seemed that if it was worse, he wouldn't like how it ran and would go back to the stock key. He doesn't seem to have a problem going into the engine.
Some of the best lessons I learned with small engines were from making mistakes.
My go-to line on kart motors was that I knew 15 or 20 things that worked, and about a thousand things that didn't.
One of my biggest gripes with OHV kart motors is the trend that seems to discourage folk from "doing it yourself".
Shucks, these motors only have four more moving parts than the flathead had, those being rocker arms and pushrods, and pushrods are just spacers.
You need a straight round bore, and a piston that is happy being in the cylinder.
Everything sealed up that should be sealed up.
Valve timing and ignition timing events happening at the correct time.
Correct clearances.
Minimum parasitic drag.
Good air/fuel mixture.
That's about it.