Bully 4 disc vs. birkey wet clutch

I have an open sudam with a buller jackshaft and was wonder if a few of you could help me decipher all pros and cons between both. Wanting to make sure engagement is solid and reliable because i will be running on smaller dirt oval tracks compared to kart tracks south of ohio
 
The pepole I know with the Birkey run the on all size tracks from indoor to outdoor . Those who have em love em .
No drivers too buy , just regular sprockets .
The bully you could get parts at the track if needed .
 
The pepole I know with the Birkey run the on all size tracks from indoor to outdoor . Those who have em love em .
No drivers too buy , just regular sprockets .
The bully you could get parts at the track if needed .
I have no idea with all the fancy metal coatings they have now a days but where is it best to buy sprockets at and would it be in my best interest to get the the 60 tooth belt sprocket with the chris seay isolator disc?
 
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I would get them from any good bearing shop . Mcmaster carr , fastenal any industrial company .
I have no experience with the Seay Isolator , im sure its a good peice .
The rear tooth count I would think with short track the larger of the two .
Some one with experience with them would know better .
 
I have no idea with all the fancy metal coatings they have now a days but where is it best to buy sprockets at and would it be in my best interest to get the the 60 tooth belt sprocket with the chris seay isolator disc?

Kevin has gotten away from the 60t gear the last time I talked with him about it. They defiantly last longer and dont fade after restarts from heat like the dry clutches especially with higher power engines. The best suggestion is to call Kevin and let him build one for you. I tried the Bully years ago and with a Dap 150cc I snapped 2 tuffy hubs. Sold it 3 days later. So my experience is not good with them.
 
I like the Birky, change the oil and go . I'm looking for about 15k at the end of the straight . No extra gear on mine, I can com up with 14-1 with out dragging the chain. Trick before final assembly, cut flats on the shaft where the set screws damaged the shaft ( much easier gear change
 
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