BULLY clutch shim and other questions

foreverfaster

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to start.. .108 air gap... LOL yep time to rebuild... before i buy parts, looking for a walk through first.. looking at the buller shims. 098- 18 and 19. it appears these go between the spring plate and the friction plate.. (is this correct?) my question is being only .005 and 010 thick.. won't the levers wrinkle, wear the thin material giving you poor consistency? .. getting around the grocery list of parts.
 
non of the web sites give the friction disk thickness... can someone tell me the new starting thickness... 6 spring 6 lever 2 disk 8 tabs
 
To close the air gap, you REMOVE shims, replace friction discs, and/or use a thicker floater disc.
The aluminum and brass shims (.010" & .005") are for fine tuning your air gap at the center of the hub. They go between the actuator lever plate and the drive hub. No, they do not deform much at all at that small of surface area use.


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Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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Linden, IN
765-339-4407
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that's interesting, many of the clutches i have are near 119/ 118, as they show some good material, maybe i can get away with some proper shimming of the plates and spacers to get my air gap back. thanks for the number.

Of course. Often clutches get rebuilt to the tune of a $100 bill. The fricition discs are the bulk of the expense in a rebuild @ ~$25 ea. If you don't need them, don't put them in. A thicker floater disc can close that air gap up to where you want it, even if you run out of shims or don't care to machine the drive hub.
 
.67 .85 .90 do each of these springs have a designated spring weight. or is the assumption that the thicker the stronger? before i buy.. would like some more education.
are all friction disks created equal.. seen them from $20 to $35 is slotted any different then non slotted... why does it matter
 
.67 .85 .90 do each of these springs have a designated spring weight. or is the assumption that the thicker the stronger? before i buy.. would like some more education.
are all friction disks created equal.. seen them from $20 to $35 is slotted any different then non slotted... why does it matter
Most clutch builders were painstakingly to match spring sets. Having a consistent clutch is what it's all about. If you can't trust that your clutch will engage at the appropriate rpm time after time, then why blueprint it or rebuild it at all?
You bet there's a difference in friction discs. I prefer genuine Bully friction discs, but to each their own. The ground surface finish on the metal discs needs to match the hardness/composite of friction disc that is used.
There's a whole lot more to a good clutch rebuild than simply buying discount friction discs and slapping them in there.
 
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