Bully sprocket on Hilliard clutch

W

Wisracer

Member
Starting karting last year and was using a couple max-torque clutches. I have switched and started using Hilliard inferno with bully drivers but it seams I am seeing some bearing play with the needle bearings. Has anyone seen any tolerance issues with different drivers and the needle bearings?? It seems I have a few bearings that don’t have a large enough outside diameter and it leaves a bit of play in the outer drum of the clutch. After it is bolted on the motor it has a lot of play when you try “tilting it in and out from top to bottom if that makes sense. NOT the play in and out just a bit of play when twisted.
If I go through all my bearings I can find ones that are better than others but all bearings came originally with each driver.
 
You need a bushing I believe to run the bully driver with the hilliard clutch.
By the way - anyone got a link for the bushing? I was needing a new one myself.
Also any links to a bushing to allow one to run the bully driver with the SMC clutch would also be appreciated!
 
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https://www.out2win.com/catalog/hilliard_parts.html
 

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I have the inner bushing!!! The bushing is on the inner diameter of the needle bearing. I am saying that the outer diameter of the needle bearing which rides on the inside of the bully driver seems a bit small.
 
Either, your inner race is shot, your bearing is shot or the sprocket is shot or you have mis-matched parts that don't belong together.
 
Thanks for the link legend.
I agree it sounds like bearing is worn or you got aftermarket stuff with loose tolerance. I have bought used aftermarket stuff that was that way with alot of slop between the needle bearing and the driver
 
Also be careful that you don't get inner races mixed up -- there are different dimensions of those as well. They are heat treated, so you shouldn't be seeing wear there.
Different brand drivers use different dimensions (ie WMS & Buller.) Make sure that you keep the bearing, inner race, and snap ring with the driver that it came with (assuming it was correct originally.)
You will also notice different length inner races -- keep this in mind when setting endplay on the clutch itself. Occasionally, I need to touch up the end of a bearing race in the lathe to get the endplay correct with certain drivers -- 11T specifically is difficult.

We also stock all parts for these clutches and conversion. Give us a call if we can help with anything.


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Carlson Racing Engines
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Thanks to all of you for the responses. All the parts were new very recently but I will order a couple bearings and inner races and see if I have any better fit or possibly a driver or two with the wrong measurements or worn out. Anyone be able to tell me what the inside diameter of a bully driver should be measuring new??
 
Genuine Bully or bully type ?
When the shoes are expanded and the clutch is locked up , does it really matter ?
 
Using genuine bully. What I was noticing was sitting static on the stand if you spin the rear wheels with the chain on it would come to a much quicker stop meaning a little more friction. Traced it to the clutch (which was new driver and bearings all genuine bully just three races ago and cleaned each week) and once I found the tolerance issue I replaced the bearing and it spins much more free. We are running three karts all with fairly new clutches and extra drivers.
Just noticed some new bearing and driver combos seam to have more play than others??
 
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