Burris 33s

LynnRacing

Member
I've read from others on here before about the difference on the SS vs B compounds but I'd like to hear from Burris Racing themselves an explanation of what makes ea of the 33 compounds different from one another and the reason they are made different the website says they are for same type of track conditions

TIA
Jeff
 
i know im not burris but i recently bought some b44b and they take prep way better than the ss33 i rolled a set over night and oooooppppps they soaked up almost a half a quart of prep lol so ya i like them better but ya gotta watch out lol
 
What kind of track you racing on where you need 8oz of prep in a Burris tire?? Must be a sloppy wet low bite track to even need a 4oz set
 
Oh I didn't need that much at all lol I have a roller with a pan and I usually this time of year let ss33 run at night while I sleep but u can't do that with b33b lol it was a huge mistake lol those tires will be setting till we have a race with snow on the track bahahahhaha
 
Several years back compounds from the SS33, 22 & 11 were dedicated dirt track compounds that had rubber that wasn't as sensitive to cold/wet/low grip situations as the SS44 and 55 compounds. the SS44 and SS55 worked on asphalt and some dirt tracks if the conditions suited them. About 4 years ago we began experimenting with new types of rubber and ingredients to make all of our compounds (right now its the B33B and B44B's) work under a lot broader range and do it without a lot of secondary work especially inside prep and cutting, and we are definitely on the right track. The problem is to get the most from these tires you'll have work a little harder on set up and keep the lid on the "jug" to get going. We have had several well know karters who got these new compounds and never even tried them straight up so consequently the results weren't that great for them. On the other hand we did some testing one day at Liberty with Zach Burrow and he ran very good with the same set of tires in 4 classes (I believe he won 3 and got second in another) and all he did was wash them with water between races. I know this is not the cup of tea for some of you but my point is the new 44B and 33B's are quick and don't take a lot of work. The direction of set up with these tires was less left, a lot less camber and more air. (at least 2 to 4 psi on the rights). For those of you who are interested and want to pursue this direction, stick around and I'll answer your questions and get a lot deeper into it. For those of you who aren't interested or want/need your chemicals please try not to get this off in the wrong direction or make it difficult for those interested in the change.

Mike
 
Several years back compounds from the SS33, 22 & 11 were dedicated dirt track compounds that had rubber that wasn't as sensitive to cold/wet/low grip situations as the SS44 and 55 compounds. the SS44 and SS55 worked on asphalt and some dirt tracks if the conditions suited them. About 4 years ago we began experimenting with new types of rubber and ingredients to make all of our compounds (right now its the B33B and B44B's) work under a lot broader range and do it without a lot of secondary work especially inside prep and cutting, and we are definitely on the right track. The problem is to get the most from these tires you'll have work a little harder on set up and keep the lid on the "jug" to get going. We have had several well know karters who got these new compounds and never even tried them straight up so consequently the results weren't that great for them. On the other hand we did some testing one day at Liberty with Zach Burrow and he ran very good with the same set of tires in 4 classes (I believe he won 3 and got second in another) and all he did was wash them with water between races. I know this is not the cup of tea for some of you but my point is the new 44B and 33B's are quick and don't take a lot of work. The direction of set up with these tires was less left, a lot less camber and more air. (at least 2 to 4 psi on the rights). For those of you who are interested and want to pursue this direction, stick around and I'll answer your questions and get a lot deeper into it. For those of you who aren't interested or want/need your chemicals please try not to get this off in the wrong direction or make it difficult for those interested in the change.

Mike

I would love to hear what you all have to say on prepping less! currently run 55s at shellhammers speedway but need to go real aggressive with prep an I hate it.
 
I dont hate prep, but I'm always interested in ways to get more speed with less prep, that saves a little money in the long run I believe. I haven't tried the B33B yet though, around here tracks have SS33A only rules for the big races or money races.
 
I was fortunate enough to be able to test a set of the B33B's here in Ohio for Burris for a few races last year. At Cridersville, Ohio which is dry, slick Ohio dirt, we entered the Clone Light and Clone Medium classes. Sat pole for the Medium class and outside pole for Lights at 40# over weight. Ended up winning the Medium class by over a half track and was the light feature won by the same amount when a caution came out on the white flag lap. The lighter kid in second was able to get around me on the restart to take the green, white, checkered but we still finished 2nd at 40# over and had the race won up until the restart.

As Mike stated, we bumped our psi up a little bit on the RS over our norm and we did not prep these tires with anything other than water and the Trac Tack blue tire wash in between races in a heated water bucket. We were impressed with what little work it took to get these B33B's ready for the track. No cutting or prepping on the inside or outside...all we did was slap them on the resurfacer and hit them with a belt sander for a few rev's and then stagger them up during the week as we prepared for the weekend.

I for one appreciate all Mike and the Burris camp do to remove the need to soak harmful and possibly fatal chemicals into our tires and our bloodstreams. Proud to be a Burris racer in Burris country and glad they are taking the continuous improvement steps to hopefully lead us all away from the chemical warfare we are all victims of in today's karting.

Paul Wysong
 
Several years back compounds from the SS33, 22 & 11 were dedicated dirt track compounds that had rubber that wasn't as sensitive to cold/wet/low grip situations as the SS44 and 55 compounds. the SS44 and SS55 worked on asphalt and some dirt tracks if the conditions suited them. About 4 years ago we began experimenting with new types of rubber and ingredients to make all of our compounds (right now its the B33B and B44B's) work under a lot broader range and do it without a lot of secondary work especially inside prep and cutting, and we are definitely on the right track. The problem is to get the most from these tires you'll have work a little harder on set up and keep the lid on the "jug" to get going. We have had several well know karters who got these new compounds and never even tried them straight up so consequently the results weren't that great for them. On the other hand we did some testing one day at Liberty with Zach Burrow and he ran very good with the same set of tires in 4 classes (I believe he won 3 and got second in another) and all he did was wash them with water between races. I know this is not the cup of tea for some of you but my point is the new 44B and 33B's are quick and don't take a lot of work. The direction of set up with these tires was less left, a lot less camber and more air. (at least 2 to 4 psi on the rights). For those of you who are interested and want to pursue this direction, stick around and I'll answer your questions and get a lot deeper into it. For those of you who aren't interested or want/need your chemicals please try not to get this off in the wrong direction or make it difficult for those interested in the change.

Mike

I'm all ears.... this should be an interesting topic
 
I was fortunate enough to be able to test a set of the B33B's here in Ohio for Burris for a few races last year. At Cridersville, Ohio which is dry, slick Ohio dirt, we entered the Clone Light and Clone Medium classes. Sat pole for the Medium class and outside pole for Lights at 40# over weight. Ended up winning the Medium class by over a half track and was the light feature won by the same amount when a caution came out on the white flag lap. The lighter kid in second was able to get around me on the restart to take the green, white, checkered but we still finished 2nd at 40# over and had the race won up until the restart.

As Mike stated, we bumped our psi up a little bit on the RS over our norm and we did not prep these tires with anything other than water and the Trac Tack blue tire wash in between races in a heated water bucket. We were impressed with what little work it took to get these B33B's ready for the track. No cutting or prepping on the inside or outside...all we did was slap them on the resurfacer and hit them with a belt sander for a few rev's and then stagger them up during the week as we prepared for the weekend.

I for one appreciate all Mike and the Burris camp do to remove the need to soak harmful and possibly fatal chemicals into our tires and our bloodstreams. Proud to be a Burris racer in Burris country and glad they are taking the continuous improvement steps to hopefully lead us all away from the chemical warfare we are all victims of in today's karting.

Paul Wysong

What time of day was this race run? What was the weather like outside? Was there a burris rule for this race, if so what tires were your competition on? How many entries were there for the whole show? Thanks, I'm sure you guys are going to get a lot of other questions..
 
Mike, if your would need to prep these, what condition would it be? I've also heard these tire come in later, is this true? I'm very interested in this thread....I would like to run these next year if I can
 
B series

I would love to hear what you all have to say on prepping less! currently run 55s at shellhammers speedway but need to go real aggressive with prep an I hate it.

If you are on 55's and need aggressive prep . The B44B series will work great for you at Shellhammers.. The B-series Burris tires are great.. the only thing i noticed is the tire life is a little less than the ss. tires. BUT THE B-SERIES TIRES ARE FAST AND THEY NEED NO INSIDE PREP AND VERY LITTLE WIPED ON THE OUTSIDE, JUST TO FIRE OFF AS THE NEW B TIRES GET FASTER ...
 
If you are on 55's and need aggressive prep . The B44B series will work great for you at Shellhammers.. The B-series Burris tires are great.. the only thing i noticed is the tire life is a little less than the ss. tires. BUT THE B-SERIES TIRES ARE FAST AND THEY NEED NO INSIDE PREP AND VERY LITTLE WIPED ON THE OUTSIDE, JUST TO FIRE OFF AS THE NEW B TIRES GET FASTER ...

You come to Shellhammers and give that a try and let us know how that worked out for Ya !! Especially for a race like there Spectacular when the place is packed.
 
Last spectacular the track started off slow with the sun being down an once it came up the track gained a half a second in a matter of no time, but on a regular night race the track is down to the mid 10s, if you get lucky you can possibly hit in the high 9s
 
Typically when a track changes most people run for the "jug" and try to out guess the track and sooo many times you hear people comment that they should have done this or done that with their prep. I seriously doubt any of you really knows what happens when you put chemicals but the only way they relate to it is with durometer readings which in my world (tire manufacturer) tell me very little anymore. Prep is nothing more than some form of solvent that in reality dissolves the chemicals put in our new compounds in the first place to give it "traction". From there your tire management becomes a big crap shoot between trying to get the grip back and matching you set up with the track. Your tires grip the track mainly through down force/weight transfer and if people would back up a little and start working on your chassis (with straight up tires) then you will end up gaining the knowledge to adjust you kart for the prevailing conditions just like they do in other forms of oval racing which NASCAR is a classic example of maximizing the car to the conditions.
 
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