burris tire cuts

timmabear

New member
I am new to racing andvtrying to order tires. Our local shop asks do we want round or flat cut tires. Can someone please explain the differance and what they are for. Thanks
 
If you are racing local and the local shop is asking questions. you might want to ask a few more also.
I would think they would be telling you what you needed. or should need. Not that you have to follow there advice.
just seems they should know.
 
if you are racing local and the local shop is asking questions. You might want to ask a few more also.
I would think they would be telling you what you needed. Or should need. Not that you have to follow there advice.
Just seems they should know.

x2 x2 x2
 
Round cut have a more "round" profile cut into the contact patch. Flat cuts have exactly that, a "flat" cut profile across the contact patch. The flat cuts typically are cut between the wear dots on a Burris and leave most, if not all, of the shoulder on the tire. They are also typically cut thin because their advantage would be on higher biting tracks. The thickness of the shoulder changes the spring rate (think coil spring) of the tire -- more shoulder = higher spring rate. Low bite tracks generally require more prep and lower spring rate (ie thicker rubber in the centers (crown cut, or round cut,) and the shoulders cut past the 2 mold lines) on a Burris.

While your local kart shop should be able to help you with what is needed at your local track, perhaps they were not aware that you are brand new and didn't have a preference of such as of yet. This time of the year, tire cutters are working tires for both indoor dirt (low bite) and indoor coke syrup (extremely high bite.) It could be that the tire guy was simply wanting to be sure he was getting you what you needed. I get calls from guys all across the country and I typically ask them what they prefer (if they have a preference.) I also offer two "intermediate" cuts that are a compromise of crown cut and flat cut profiles for those local guys wanting to get more life out of their tires and only have the funds to afford one or two sets for a season that better accommodate all the different track situations they will encounter. Throw in all the various classes we have in karting today, and you have to evaluate your tire selection even more - ie a set of tires for a Jr1 clone will definitely not be the same as is required by a guy running a 450 UAS kart. As a tire guy myself, I try very hard to find out exactly how, where, and what the tires will be expected to work on. If the customer doesn't have a personal preference with what works best on his kart, then we go off of our years of experience to determine what we think is best for his application.
Ya see, there's a lot more to it than just ordering a pizza (thick or thin crust, thin or deep dish.) :)

-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cuts
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com

Celebrating 25 years of service to the karting industry

765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Carlson Motorsports- You say a flat cut tire has more spring in it. The first time we ran at Ponderosa Speedway in July it was really bumpy and rough I had on a set of round cuts, would a set of flat cuts have been the the better choices for the spring rate and roll speed.
I'd also like to hear your oppion on flat cuts when the track gets fast at night do you use them. I perfect example is dumplin valley most big shows it is slick in the day starts getting a little faster night some times it has grip under the lights most of the time it gets faster but stays slick.
Thanks
 
The spring rate is primarily determined by the sidewall and shoulder of the tire. Thicker shoulder = higher spring rate. Think of it as running higher air psi without changing grip/sidebite in the corners.

Rough track surfaces typically do best with lower psi and lower spring rate tires. Think of a basketball instead of your tires hitting those bumps...higher psi will make the ball/tire bounce higher. Sure, it's faster on the straights, especially on a big old stock car track, but if you're too high, then you can't keep the car in the groove in the corners. I guess it depends where the track is rough too. Thin and flat is generally used on higher biting, not necessarily the "roughness" of the track.

Dumplin used to get very fast with bite -- From what guys are telling me, it's not so much the past couple years -- this could be due to car counts on regular nights, difference in track prep, or a bunch of other factors...I don't really know. When it really bites up, thin and flat will be fast, but I know guys that are running .060" - .080" thick 33s crown cut or intermediate cut there that are fast too. When it's slick during the day with lower bite, I'd be on crown cuts with prep for bite. As the track bites up, go to a flat(ter) cut set with less bite prep. If it stays slick, stay on crown cut and something pretty harsh to get the tire to fire. Our Pink Panther has always rolled well down there, as does others' "red" preps. Jerry Welch has a red that works well there, as did SBR at one time. There are plenty of guys who continue to kill tires with green and goat. To each their own I guess. As long as you're just wiping before going to the grid, you're probably alright with that, but it wouldn't be my #1 choice most nights. Condition prep with Pink Panther, then either Monster Bite to drop duro and add bite, or Black Bite 2.0 to keep duro the same and add bite. (Any of our preps can be used straight as a PRW.)
 
Flat cuts were what you needed at Ponderosa, strong08. Track was a little rough but had good bite
 
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