Track Tac

Camber - Caster pill

Ted Hamilton said:
The european sprint karts have moved to 25mm spindle shafts to eliminate flex instead of the old 17mm. I foresee American karts migrating that way too. Only American karts use the L bracket front ends.... Euros tend to have a rotating eccentric cam or a sniper-type system. The old way was a washer with offset welded kingpin bolt... then eccentrics....then indexing sniper type. If it were me, I'd do the Buller style stub yokes with infinite and easy caster adjustment and wheel track width adjustment, then have a single heim upper for camber adjustment.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I dont believe Euro karts are doing a large amount of adjustment on the front spindle heights? And what are the kingpin sizes on Euro karts?
 
I would take this over L brackets any day. Snipers are so much easier than the dirt systems to me.

Maybe a little more robust and slightly more adjustment room, but no need to disconnect heims and stuff.
 

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JoshuaGuiher said:
I would take this over L brackets any day. Snipers are so much easier than the dirt systems to me.

Maybe a little more robust and slightly more adjustment room, but no need to disconnect heims and stuff.
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Are those allen screws threaded in and out for camber adjustment? How much range do you have with them?
 
Euro king pins are 8mm and 10mm and snipper adjusters are available in them two sizes . The snipper adjusters are sintered metal and can break easy if force is used while adjusting the seat screws. The king pin bolt needs to be loose when adjusting then tightened after set screw adjustment is made. The king pin bolts hold the adjustment in place don't tighten the set screws very tight to hold the king pin.

If needed for more range in camber or caster adjustment an off set bottom pill can be used a long with the top snipper adjusters.
 
^^ What he said. Also, the forces for grip are MUCH less on dirt, so if 8mm works for asphalt, it should be fine for dirt...
also, the "static" measurements are double checked with the "sniper" laser plate system, so even if your baseline is technically off by some amount, you still know where you are.
 
The sniper looks nice . As stated with a dirt kart all adjustments are made with driver in the kart .
Those little allen screws look pretty meek .
The hiem style has proven itself many times over .
It works is simple with no need for improvement .
 
Ted Hamilton said:
^^ What he said. Also, the forces for grip are MUCH less on dirt, so if 8mm works for asphalt, it should be fine for dirt...
also, the "static" measurements are double checked with the "sniper" laser plate system, so even if your baseline is technically off by some amount, you still know where you are.
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I would agree, but I would also venture to say that oval racing sees a longer duration of stress.

But back to the adjustment part of that Sniper system, I like it, however for oval racing, I'd be concerned about not having enough range of adjustment (right front from -1 to -6) and (left front 0 to +2.0). Would probably have to see a design with a larger threaded allen screw to be strong enough for a wider range of motion. There is also the higher potential with frame damage in an accident with that setup, where as with the L block and rod end, it usually either bends the spindle, rod end, or wipes out the lower castor block bolt so the frame doesnt take the impact.

Cool design though!
 
Ted Hamilton said:
^^ What he said. Also, the forces for grip are MUCH less on dirt, so if 8mm works for asphalt, it should be fine for dirt...



Interesting that there is also a 10 mm design.
Someone may have thought the 8 mm was not stiff enough.
Removed a lot of bent 3/8 kingpin bolts, so not immune to damage.

When the damage occurred, is another question.
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I wonder if anybody knows the sheer strength numbers for a 5/16 bolt? I may not know what I'm talking about, but I think the only significant force on that bolt is in sheer.
 
I have used the pill/ king pin set up for sprint racing sense I had bought a new 1992 Margay TNR. I still have and even race that kart from time to time. It seen too many wins to count and it still straight after many wrecks.
That frames tubing and my old Magnum off set chassis is hard to bend in my chassis straightening jig. I started using Euro shifter chassis's in 2006 with 32mm tubing, that's when I had to build my chassis straightening jig. The modern tube design of karts are very flexible and bend easily. I see this trend even with some of the new American chassis's
If you go to a big race now-a-days you will see most racers on new chassis's and chassis bending vendors.
 
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