Camber is basically how the spindle is tilted from side to side, Positive camber leans the top of the spindle out away from center of the kart. Negative camber leans the top of the spindle in towards the center of the kart. The closer to zero camber that you are able to keep your settings, the more of the front tires contact patch will remain in contact with the track surface. Camber should be adjusted like the kart is raced with the driver in the seat. Excessive worn hub bearings will alter camber settings , rim offsets in both front rims will also slightly alter the effective cambers. More normal ranges LF .25 to .75 pos, RF 2.25 to 3 neg.
LF Camber
Going more positive on LF will help kart turn in quicker and loosen the chassis when exiting the corner from the middle out, and will also magnify the effects of the LF caster. Going more negative on LF camber reduces the pull to the left, and will tighten the chassis when exiting the corner from the middle out, and reduces the effects of the LF caster. Excessive LF camber is when the kart becomes to loose exiting the corner several laps into a run. Insufficient LF camber is indicated when the kart is tight from the middle out on corners. the kart will simply be slow off the corners.
RF camber
Going more negative on the RF camber will magnify the effects of the RF caster, making the kart turn in quicker and loosen the chassis throughout the corner. Negative RF camber keeps the RF tire sidewall from rolling under when weight is transferred to it during cornering, and frees the kart up throughout the corner. Excessive negative RF camber can result in a push later in the run due to overheating the inside of the RF causing the tire to give up, tires have a designed operating temp range, which once exceeded, will cause the chassis to become extremely loose.
Going more positive on RF camber reduces the effects of the RF caster, will slow the kart at turn in and tighten the chassis.