I think its perfect because your using a 32mm intake
Agree, That's always been a rule of thumb I learned over the years...trying to dissect a big issue I'm having...motor is pushing a large portion of the oil (12oz) into the overflow tank, along with a fairly good amount of fuel...to the point of galling the rod bearing to the crank...thought maybe too much fuel in the cylinder washing cylinder wall to the point excess fuel is passing worn down ring and accumulating in crankcase then being pushed out vent lines into overflow leaving motor oil starved...sound plausible?
Sorry, miss-communicated, starting with 12oz of oil in the engine, large portion of that amount along with a good amount of fuel being pushed into overflow tank after about 10 laps on the track...
Plug with lead or epoxy ?
It was drilled and prepared for the ported 32/28 valve head by competition carbs...I've also got a 304wxa set up for alky that I ran on a stock size valve unported head motor...might need to try that carb instead?
I kinda felt the big piston set up felt kinda lazy coming off the corners, though had monstrous top end, thought to try smaller piston/bore set up for better faster power coming off corners...
I do have a smaller tilly 304wxa alky carb to put on it after the bottom end is rebuilt, hopefully that should resolve the problem...
Thanks and God bless,
I had a big bore stroker animal, that's what I bought the 28mm alky carb for, when I ran it with that combo, it ran like a scaled ape, with minimal fuel in the oil, even after a feature with numerous yellow flag laps, entirely my fault, but that big bore/stroker set up shot the rod out the case on the last race of the summer season last summer, I had it rebuilt before indoor racing started, with stock stroke/stock bore bottom end (lacka fundzas disease), I was using 20w50 oil, and used it for the couple indoor shows with the big carb/small bottom end combo, ran great as the oil was heavy enough to handle the fuel buildup...without thinking much about it, I switched to a lighter weight synthetic oil, which was not thick enough to handle the fuel buildup from the 28mm carb...so there is nothing wrong with the drill/set up by competition carbs, rather a mistake entirely on my behalf by putting it on a motor combination it does not belong on...as Ole DW has said, it's a matter of "sperence"...I'm working on a 28mm Mik set-up on a stroker (big bore) animal currently. It's what I prefer with big valves and ratio rockers.
Spin, if you're getting too much fuel in the oil, it's almost gotta be drilled too rich on the bottom end (like a flathead pattern.)
I use the 304wx/a on limited with stock valves. I don't think it's enough carb for big CI opens, BUT, it will likely cure the over-fueling problem.
Tillys don't like to be idled, I don't care who drilled them. It's just a design thing. I suspect that the washing down of the cylinder is caused by too much idling and low part throttle. Avoid that as best as you can. As for oil -- stick with what you know works best for your application. Personally, I like Briggs 4T. Good ol' FHS 62R is a close second.
Jon, Thanks for sharing your insight. Much appreciated. I've never had much luck in epoxy and redrilling, but I've also not tried that particular product. As much as I hate to, I may have to go back through some old flathead carbs and try it now.
-----
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
www.youtube.com
34 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
Maybe. If you changed base stocks when you changed your oils, that's more likely the problem with the catastrophic failure. Compressor oils don't play well with others. (before or after)
I'm not a motor wizard by any means, with that being said, when you say "sealed up", I don't know what that means...I've taken the carb totally apart and meticulously cleaned it, especially the needle and seat (can't tell you it was, but a person on here told me to put a small dab of toothpaste on the end of a qtip and insert and twist inside the seat), I've always done it that way with several different tillys over the years without ever having any issues...as far as pop off, I don't have a pop off gauge, I set the fulcrum slightly above level with the carb body and go with it, again haven't had any carb issues until this year, motor bottom end due back from engine shop next week, gonna reassemble it with my 304wxa on it and give that a run, I pretty confident the 28mm pumper was just too much carb for the stock head configuration I had on the motor to start the season...and yes, Dustin at comp carbs does a great job imo...spin
