^ Sure. I've probably written it on here previously, but here ya go:
Remove the air bleed screw and spring entirely.
Blast out the orifice with brake clean to clean any dirt or rubber that may have found it's way in there.
Now, stretch the spring slightly between your fingers. Be careful to stretch it lightly so as not to damage the coils of the spring.
Reinstall spring and air bleed adjuster screw until it lightly bottoms out. Now back it out (counter-clockwise) 2 turns.
With the kart on the ground, start the engine and allow it to warm.
Set the idle to 2200 rpm with the idle adjuster screw (one located directly under the slide.)
Next, turn the air bleed adjuster screw counter-clockwise (leaner) until the engine is idling at it's peak rpm. If the rpm never increased, then go back to your starting point and try adjusting it in (clockwise / richer.) The key is to get the engine to it's highest idle rpm (generally leaner.)
Note: If the clutch is trying to engage, you may need to reset your idle adjuster screw to keep your rpm below clutch engagement.
Repeat this process until the engine is idling at it's highest rpm, then turn the idle adjuster screw back out to lower the idle rpm to 2200 (or whatever your preferred idle rpm is.)
That'll do. Now, as weather changes and air density changes, it may be necessary to readjust your airbleed setting during an event. At the very least, set it each race day.
Most everyone that I've talked with that complains of fouled or sooty plugs has never set their own air bleed on their carbs. There's only so much your builder can do on his dyno at his elevation with his atmospheric conditions on the day that your engine was tunes. Some tuning is still left up to the racer, and that tuning changes from day to day, even hour to hour.
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Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cut
z
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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33 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
