Chain Alignment * not for weak of heart*

I have had an issue with chains in the past because of the engine mount flattening the chassis tubing where the engine mount clamps to the chassis. Use a large crescent wrench to see if the chassis tube is flattened.
 
**edited: JK I seen now where OP did try a brand new chain 😂 my bad. But so was that new chain that your tried, one that you had used the breaker on to size??



Okay, time out, can we confirm that a new chain has actually been put on and tried out???
Because I see a thread titled “chain alignment” yet we’ve been talking everything BUT the actual chain lol..... now I know that dumb things like low quality motor mounts and gears and sprockets can cause chain issues because they don’t sit right and you don’t realize it blah blah blah..... but pretty sure I read through all the comments and it doesn’t seem like there was any confirmation that a KNOWN good chain was put on it yet... before throwing the kitchen sink at it...?? Just a thought..

Some helpful tips to help avoid misalignment... tighten your sprocket nuts with your fingers first so there’s a bit of play for the sprocket to “settle in”, then add the chain, then roll, then tighten sprocket, THEN tighten motor mount. Also, when you’re using the chain breaker to put it back together after changing length, push the pin through till it pinches the link, then flip the breaker around and put a 1/4-1/2 turn back in it in the opposite direction to take the tension back out... your pins should always be all the way in and you “shouldn’t” ever have issues with tight spots. Provided that you lube correctly ;)
 
Changed motor mount

Rear sprocket

Rear sprocket hub

Sprocket guard

Axle

Rear rotor * bent * new now

Swapped clutches from 2 to my 3 disk

Changed drivers used and new

Adj motor mount left to right aligned on 1 side

Squeezed chain on sprocket and then tightened down gear

Removed left side rear guard sprocket

Swapped 2 chains
1 new new
1 that's 3 race old
 
I chased the problem. Put on a new hub of the exact same
type with a single clamp bolt. Chased the problem some more.
Loosened the clamp bolt and the runout went down. Tightened the
bolt and it went up. Changed to a hub with two clamping bolts spaced
180* apart.
Problem disappeared.
 
I can attest that we’ve had multiple brand new gears be junk, from WMS and the generic gears. Not a solution but be mindful of quality control with the new stuff,
I seem to have issues with most if not all of my brand new red WMS rear gears too. Never have issues with my horstman's
 
I have this problem on my slack pursuit. with the light weight 4 bolt hub the one with the set screw. I've indicated axle even crank for runout nothing. I can see by eye the sprocket bounces even with sprockets for the 4 bolt hub I discovered. I couldn't find a good way to indicate the hub. I think my hub is bad. What does everyone recommend from hubs. I was thinking floating or clamp on idk 4 or 6 either. Also on the clamp on one's to you leave a little clearance between clamps Thanks in advance.
If you use the clamp on one's that use 2 pinch bolts, make sure to tighten each bolt in increments so that the gaps are even for both bolts
 
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