Chain alignment

Laser alignment tool - slips between the chain guards and aim right at the center of the front driver. As long as the laser is straight in its mount you can't miss ;) Should be able to come up with something similar pretty cheap with the easy access to low grade lasers today.

Dan
 
I too , use the key stock method, works good for me, and it's real easy to check the key stock for straightness on a flat plate. I've seen where a laser alignment tool was out of calibration and caused much adgida.
 
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Laser alignment tool - slips between the chain guards and aim right at the center of the front driver. As long as the laser is straight in its mount you can't miss ;) Should be able to come up with something similar pretty cheap with the easy access to low grade lasers today.

Dan
This is also how we check are alignment . First we check that it is pointing straight with a framing square .
 
I use the Phantom technique. Roll the rear axle with gear hub loose, when chain rides perfectly on the middle of rear sprocket tighten hub and check again. Repeat if necessary.
 
I use a builders square to make sure the motor is square to the rear, then a laser to make sure the sprocket is aligned to the driver and I use one of the floating rear gear hubs just for overkill.
 
You can usually get the chain alignment dead on by the sound of the chain and gear interface and looking at the placement of the sprocket hub with the gear on at the bottom of the sprocket. Equal space between the sprocket and chain on both sides will get you the alignment you want. For thoes that use a floating rear hub and use a Laser to set alignment GOOD luck. Scott @chaindraggone
 
after you get it set look at gear when you take it off look at both sides of gear if you have any ware on one side then you can move it
 
I use a laser alignment tool and also the Phantom technique. Make sure the clutch and sprocket are aligned, motor mount tight and the chain adjusted where it should be. Loosen the sprocket nuts so they are finger tight, just enough that the sprocket can move if it needs to but not loose enough that it rattles around. Then spin the axle with the wheels on. The spinning chain should help line up the sprocket. When the tight spot goes away, squeeze the chain so the sprocket doesn't move. While keeping the chain squeezed, begin tightening the nuts by starting with the middle nut on each sprocket half then alternating tightening the others. You don't have to torque them down, just tighten them enough so the sprocket halves don't move. When they are snugged down, try spinning the rear axle again. I've found that your problem usually comes from the two halves of the sprocket not being spaced exactly correctly.
 
Any thoughts on why the chain would be tight at one point and when the axle is spun around it loosens and gains about an inch of slack? I've put a new gear hub on and its a brand new chain as well. It appears to be lined up exactly with the clutch.
 
Remove the gear halves---using a flat file, file down the ends where the halves meet when installed---the gears are made in one piece then sheared into 2 halves--sometimes the ends are distorted. sometimes this works to get rid of the tight/loose condition. Second potential fix--tighten motor mount, loosen the gear hub bolts holding the gear,, grasp chain in between gear and clutch and squeeze the chain together,(you will be surprised how much the axle flexes) rotate a half turn and do the same, then tighten the bolts holding the gear to the hub---sometimes this simple fix is all you need to fix the problem----Good luck, John
 
Put a different sprocket on, if it still does it, it's probably a bent axle. If it stops, then it's the sprocket, get a new one. My money is on bent axle
 
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