Chain length

S

SNick75

Member
So its my understanding that chain length is determined by engine placement after scaling. So i shouldnt buy a chain until i scale with the engine on right? I know it sounds dumb but with different chain lengths and chain breaker talk im trying to figure this all out.
 
It was always my philosophy to run as short a chain as possible.

Run space chain, use the #35 chain breaker I invented in 1973. Keep your engine in the same place, as close as possible, no matter the track you're on, no matter the gears you use. One tooth, plus or minus, is not to make much difference, what plus or minus 2 will.
 
Scottn75 said:
So its my understanding that chain length is determined by engine placement after scaling. So i shouldnt buy a chain until i scale with the engine on right? I know it sounds dumb but with different chain lengths and chain breaker talk im trying to figure this all out.
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Most chains have removable links and a clip to hold it together so you can shorten them.
 
A quality chain or three and a good chain breaker are your best friends in that arena. We preferred chains with a master link - other's will disagree, and there are sound arguments for both positions. Our most elegant setup used two master links; the main chain was too short, and then various pieces (from the same brand of chain), varying from 2 to 8 links would be added with a master link, then the whole thing linked up with the 2nd master link. It worked for us, but only attempt it with the highest quality chain and master links; if memory serves, we ran Regina Pro Karting chain with that setup. When we simply ran a chain with one master link, and had several different chains to cover the different lengths we needed, we ran EK Gold. We got to master links because we just got tired of using the chain breaker every time we needed to change something.
 
Chain typically comes in 106 or 120 links . If you get the 120 you should have plenty . .
As stated either way you may need to add or subtract .
 
Scottn75 said:
So its my understanding that chain length is determined by engine placement after scaling. So i shouldnt buy a chain until i scale with the engine on right? I know it sounds dumb but with different chain lengths and chain breaker talk im trying to figure this all out.
Click to expand...
I always scale out with my engine close to being where it’s needed with the chain on. It might not make much of a difference. It’s just the way I like to do it.
 
GClary said:
Brand new chain came apart at the master link on me in qualifying in the first turn , never again used a master link . Never a problem since .
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I had problems like that, which went away quickly when I quit trying to save money with cheap chain. One lesson I had already learned from 45 years of riding a motorcycle; you have to install the master link clip properly. As I said above, there are good arguments for both approaches, especially if Lady Luck tends to frown on you - in that case, your approach is the one of choice.
 
Buy one of these and a box of #35 space chain and kiss your chain problems goodbye, at least 95% of them. It's

What costs more; losing a race because of chain problems, or good chain to start with, and a chain breaker to easily set the length correctly.

I know we have priorities, and expenses to consider, but this is a no-brainer.
 

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SNick75 said:
So its my understanding that chain length is determined by engine placement after scaling. So i shouldnt buy a chain until i scale with the engine on right? I know it sounds dumb but with different chain lengths and chain breaker talk im trying to figure this all out.
Click to expand...
What pitch are you running?
 
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