Chassis for 4 cycle sprint?


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Would like to run a briggs or chonda on a sprint track but not sure which chassis would work. I would like a used kart. Arrow, CRG? I got a Tony Kart ( a mid 2000 - 2007? kart ) but told unless a jack shaft is used a Tony Kart with a 4 cycle is out of the question. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Where you from? Arrow has a 4cycle kart that would be an easy transition from a tony kart. Same basic adustments and can use all your existing wheels and setup equipment. I thought some of the tony karts could fit a 4cycle without modification or a jack shaft.
I have a 2001 Tony Kart with a clone engine. No Jack shaft is needed. 15 degree engine mount and move the right seat strut rearward an inch or two. I also have a 2003 SKM and a 2001 Haase, both with clones and No Jack Shaft. We run them every week.
Use a specific 4 cycle American kart better. I have a 2010 MGM with about 10 races that I would sell for the right price. MGMs, Razor, Coyotes, Margays, all very good for that engines and made in the USA. Cheaper spare parts. Any European 2 cycle even if you can buy tehm cheap if they are old you need to modify them, even cut or modify frame in many cases, and spare parts are very expensive and sometimes hard to find. Besides at most sprint tracks they are slower because they are built for higher power applications and flex different too.
I am from Texas. This kart has no badge on the back cross support. It has a a esprit sticker on chrome bar inside of the back bumper
I have an arrow chassis with a clone on it. It's a pretty tight fit and have had problems with the clutch getting into the seat some but as I have a plastic seat I just melted it and formed a fine in it to give it clearance. The other problem is the rear cross bar is at an angle so the largest clutch driver I can run is a15 tooth which puts m my gear ratios different than everyone else. Most guys are running an 18 or 19 driver on the clutch. My suggestion is calling comet kart and getting an eagle chassis. The were bad fast around here last year. European tubing but assembled in Indiana.
Good info davis. You must have one of tbe arrow 2cycle chassis though, that is why you have the gearing and clearance issues. The eagle chassis is essentially the same as the arrow 4s and will work great
I think that sounds like a great option. I have a xl Tillett seat as well so I am sure that wouldn't help any on the clearance. I still want to get the Tony Kart functional but need to repair a leaky brake caliper and get simple clutch for the yamaha. The Kart is currently a direct drive. Thanks so much for the wonderful help!
Trash the Tony Kart caliper and the master cylinder. Although a "good one" sneaks through the production line every once in a while, during the early 2000's they were famous for their poor quality and their ability to leak in spite of rebuilds. I went with an MCP system on my Tony Kart and SKM and it has been rock solid for 3 years.
Agree on caliper. I had the same issue with my old Tony Kart and used to have same issues in the 90s with that kind of calipers when I was racing FIA/CIK in Europe. Buy a cheaper MCP and you won´t have any issue. My advice, don´t buy a similar one from Righetti Ridolfi, or at least do not buy it from KART PARTS DEPÔT. I got a defective one and was told to send it back but never got refund, credit or even my defective caliper back. I bought same one back in Spain this summer and seemed to work fine but I would go with an MCP. JMO
Gold karts work very well and are popular here in Canada not so much in the USA. From what Ive read and researched my next chassis will likely be a comet Eagle.
Rainman, something I've been doing is using the front calipers from a Suzuki GSXR. Yeah, ya gotta make a bracket for them BUT you get a 4 pot caliper and a company like Ferodo making different compound pads for them too. The last pair of calipers I got from Fleabay for around $25/pr. Just a thought. :)
Rainman, something I've been doing is using the front calipers from a Suzuki GSXR. Yeah, ya gotta make a bracket for them BUT you get a 4 pot caliper and a company like Ferodo making different compound pads for them too. The last pair of calipers I got from Fleabay for around $25/pr. Just a thought. :)

Thanks a lot. Very useful info. I am used to making my own brackets, specially for the older frames.When I started racing on a low budget and parts in Europe were so expensive I used to make my own pads out of pads I got for free or cheap in junk yards. Not that that compound worked till the end of the races though, lol.
Plus, when I get them from auction, I completely disassemble them, flush them out completely, replace o-rings with new, and simply use automatic transmission fluid just as I have for 45+ years without any issues whatsoever. Cheaper and available at any corner convenience store. :)
Alan -- do those GSXR calipers fully release, or drag just a little bit? I've always thought about adapting some, and my local hydraulics shop said they'll make me a banjo to compression line.
Yup, they fully release for me. And I don't even bother with the banjo fitting. Simply cut that tab off alongside the threads, then while you have the caliper apart simply re-tap it for 1/8 pipe thread. Flush it out and then you can just use regular brake line hardware. Being a single line caliper, just plug one of the threads in the master cylinder if it is a dual line. On one I opted for 1/4" line vs. 3/16". Noticed a little better pedal but not a lot of difference. Gonna try ceramic pads on my twin enduro this season for the GSXR calipers I mounted on it too. :)
Do it. I mean......a pair of calipers for half the cost of a good single karting designated caliper? I found it worth a try just for that reason and liked what I found. Your results may differ but heck, can't beat the cost for trying. :)
Almost all the major chassis manufacturers build a 4 cycle chassis, you just need to know what to look for. If you like a particular chassis line just search for the World Formula chassis from places like Tony Kart, Wild Kart, GP, CRG, Sodi, DR. . . . to name a few